im having a [censored] up time trying to figure how to mount upholstered panels on the natural curve of the van. i also have huge aftermarket windows, just flattening it out with plywood would be difficult to make it look good because the windows would sit 3-4 inches in from my ply surface. i could just cover the windows with ply. is this what people do to flatten the vans curve? you lose 3-4 inches each side by doing that. also the corner panels and the transition into the flat is driving my crazy. please give me your panel installation tips!

Use either thin paneling or thin plywood which you can curved to the shape of the van Thicker plywood for floors only or possible cabinets.

luan isnt thin enough to make those curves

I'm probably not gonna be much help here. I used T&G pine boards on our GMC.
Ran the boards as far back into the corner as they would comfortably fit and then just used cloth with padding behind it in the corners.


The pine is only about 1/4 thick and they curved to fit the van well.

I have had luck conforming plywood up to 3/16 of an inch to the curve. You could use thicker wood and kerf it (google kerfing wood). However, kerfing is pretty labor intensive.

I I were you, I would build a wood frame around the conversion windows so they are held firmly against the body of the van and are watertight. Then I would build the wall to the depth necessary to mate to the frame around the windows.

If necessary, on the roof and walls I also recommend instaling 1/4 inch stringers across the metal reinforcing ribs to create more places to attach the inned skin to.

Here's a few ideas for you.

Many Vanners have made up molded fiberglass panels for the rear corners. This leads itself to molded-in rear speakers.





The original factory rear corners in the deluxe vans were made of a thin fiberboard, like Masonite, which appeared to have been steamed into the curved shape, then was covered with vinyl. The top corners were sometimes made of molded fiber reinforced plastic:



I'd suggest making mockups of cardboard; you can curve, trim, and adjust as necessary.

Try looking through the images of van interiors on the sister site, www.showvans.com for more ideas. Some are pretty brilliant.

Many conversion vans used wooden or molded ABS plastic inserts to take up the space between the walls and the windows. These are some I pulled out of a high-end van:





I don't recall whose picture this was, but you can see how linear braces can be used to get away from curved walls, while providing you with lots more points for secure attachment:



In my old Dodge van I used 1/4" tempered Masonite for its curved walls. It was about as rigid as I could bend without the sort of notching Reed described.

Hope that helps a little!

Lots of good info here! I will be tackling this very soon myself

good idea. i think im gonna go take the back corners out of a custom van at pull a part. i've been trying to figure that out myself

I'll be looking forward to seeing what you settle on! Please be sure to keep us up to date on your progress.

You can use aluminum sheet. I've used it many times in cab corners of older trucks. Use a big rosebud style tip on a propane torch and go over the aluminum moving fairly quickly. You'll notice it blush and look a little dull. You are annealing it, making it easier to bend without kinks. Once you fit it and trim it, you can use 3M trim adhesive to attach your interior to the aluminum. This strengthens the whole panel and it will hold its shape very well. Be sure to use the cone shaped trim washers under your screws you use to mount the panel. Easy peasy. No fiberglass mess, no frustration trying to bend wood or glue plastic. If you have a metal roofing supplier nearby, you may be able to buy some aluminum coil remnants up to 30 inches wide. I've also used sheeting for door panels. No worries about moisture since it won't rot. Be aware of places it can vibrate against though or you'll get rattle gremlins. Don't buy junk snips to cut thin aluminum, you'll hate it.

You won't find it at Home Depot or Lowe's, but lumber yards can get material that carpenter's refer to as "bendy board" or "barrel board". It a 3/16" plywood that flexes to make, ...well, barrels, columns, etc. We use it a lot in the film industry for archways and such. You can get it with the grain running lengthwise or across the sheet. It's what I'll be using in mine.

I used 1/4 inch underlayment/subfloor plywood for my interior panels and they bent in just fine with a bit of love and swearing. I rolled on polyurethane before cutting to fit. Luckily I had the original build panels to use as a template. (restoring an old vannin' van) Now mine is a third gen econoline so pretty boxy, this might not work in something with more curves.

If you're upholstering then why not use something easier to bend like hardboard or PVC plastic sheeting?

Back in the day the mentioned 1/4" luan plywood was the standard. I would take precise measurments all along the vertical ribs and write them down with corresponding length runout measuements, your reference of square being at the base and floor of each vertical rib. One of the reasons why everyone used shag carpet back in the day was not only because it looked pretty cool, but all we did was wrap the carpet around the panels once we fit them and staple it down in back. When the panel is installed and conforms to the curve you can nuzzel your staple guns nose deep in the carpet pile and staple it down tight where needed where the panels curved shape would slacken the carpet. It doesnt have to be shag, it works with any type of carpeting even a tight close pile nap. If I were to do upolsterly today Id use the same technique, but be very precise, then spray glue the upolstery to the panel and use trim head screws strategicly placed and measured out equally with a button head cap over the screw head. Most hardware stores and upolstery shops have the button head caps for screws, you can upolster them to match or contrast. Many methods out there.

Fasten the panel at the ribs obviously, being REALLY sure you use the right length screw!