Hello,

Proud owner of a 1owner 93k hi top factory RV conversion. Trying to add pics but it says my cell phone images are not supported so I’ll work on that in the coming days. It’s been sitting for 5 years with a pile of crud underneath with every fluid leaking but I got it for a steal.

I’m coming from a mostly Ford fuel injected experience history so I’m diligently reading about interchangeable drivetrain from the G30 to the 20. I’m planning to restore this RV to suitable full time living. I work in custom RV conversion already so the RV side of it will be familiar. Unfortunately I work mostly with larger diesels, series 60’s, ISX, and Detroit Diesels, in what we do though. So far, 99% of it is original, less a newly installed inline electric fuel pump. All the labels and tags are legible in the door and in the hood. I wasn’t able to find an axle tag.

I’ve dealt with these type of factory conversions before where they use other model parts and on this Chevy platform I wouldn’t be able to tell if that were the case. I’ve identified a 10-bolt rear that will be coming out for a fresh locked rebuild from drum to drum with new leafs and air helpers. I would like to put whatever option is “beefiest” as it has a 3’ fiberglass lid on it that I will be filling with yet more Solar-weight, and later pulling a single axle trailer. I’m all ears if there’s a worthy upgrade with disc brakes.

The front suspension is toast as well and will get the same treatment. I’m reading about a cross member from a G30 bolting to the 20 frame for the upgraded suspension LCA’s and springs (and brakes?) and wondering if the RV factory might’ve done that already. Again, I wouldn’t be able to tell. Suppose I could run to the handy-dandy pick a part. Or maybe post a few pictures and someone could confirm? Mental note, also need to look G20/30 brake differences.

I’m off to do more searching and reading! Thanks for reading. I’ll get pics up shortly. It’s worthy of them.

to the site.

welcome. are you wanting to put G30 Suspension under a G20, or is it a G30 and you want the G20?

Most RV's I have seen were G30 conversions. Easy enough to check, as the G30 Had 8 lug at all 4 corners and a full floater 14 bolt rear axle.

For what I know, converting from 1 to the other isn't too bad. Easiest method would be to swap the entire subframe in the front, and the Leaf springs and axle in the back. I am not sure if there is anything else different.

Welcome aboard!

Welcome to the site .... since your doing a G30 up grade add a 454 to your list.

Thanks for the advice! It looked pretty basic while I was under there. I’m still waiting on a new compressor to get dropped off so I can use my air tools.

Yes, it is not understandable to me why the conversion company would use a 20 instead of a 30. It has 5 lug wheels, 10bolt rear, and the little 305. Not thinking for the long run if you ask me.

I’m going to the yard today or tomorrow to see what I can find laying around. I’m on a time crunch as I need to have this road “ready” in a month.

In our conversions we rely on the original manuals of the vehicle. This did not come with one. Any chance they can be found in PDF form?





Thank you! Looking forward to floating around the forums.

Thanks. I did some searching on that as well. If I do a heart transplant it won’t be until further down the road and it will be with 4x4 also. I’ve seen your posts on a few of the threads I’ve came across. 454’s are pretty easy to come by but I think if I was going to do that it would be a diesel, in which case I would need a few how-to’s with pictures.

Brings me to another question: on the E- and F-series with Ford, a gas frame should not be used with a diesel as all diesels frames are thicker from the factory. Is this true for GM as well? I’ve helped with a Cummins swap in a powerstroke before.

Thanks again.

Figured out a pic. Baby steps. Doesn’t do it justice. I didn’t get any before I put it in its first clean up spot.

I’ve called 15 or so places looking for a G30 front crossmember to upgrade to the G30 suspension, not only does no one have any G30’s, they have no 72-95 Chevy vans.

I have until end of day to pull the plug and order new suspension whether it be 3/4 or 1-ton. If anyone has any suggestions or wisdom I would appreciate all or any. I’d rather do it right the first time but am really pressed for time. I just sold my RV and have limited time in the family’s home/garage for this transition. Thanks.

Welcome, looks Good!

Welcome . Great to have you here.

Welcome from Florida
Looks like you found yourself a nice van there.

Right when I found a g30 cross member I also found a nice g20 with great LCA’s so I went that route to keep the softer 3/4 ton suspension because of the RV conversion.
I’m now putting new ball joints on the newish control arms to re install all new suspension parts.

It got an entire new cooling system: hoses, radiator, overfill tank, water pump, thermos and housing (don’t waste painting if you’re not going to keep your hands clean 😎).

New brakes from the booster and the MC to calipers and a full drum rebuild.

Drained and cleaned fuel tank.

Sealed roof leak. Fixed roof A/C. Replaced roof vents.

After suspension and brakes install will be new rubber and wheels. I’m doing drivetrain all first then will dive into the RV side with a new inverter, solar charger and panels, removal of inside shower for an outside shower, installation and plumbing of new generator and frame-mounted air-compressor, and re-certification of well-expired propane tanks. More pics coming.

So, a couple things I’ve found out that I hadn’t read anywhere yet...
The OEM brake booster has 3/8 studs on it and the reman ones, because AC Delco is obsolete, will have metric studs and will not include nuts - so you have to source new nuts (35 cents at Lowe’s m10 IIRC). Far as I understand, Cardone is the only one who makes these anymore.
See pics
The Master cylinder, also Cardone, used a larger diameter flare nut for the back side reservoir so a new line has to be made, or a flare tool, a new inverted flare nut, a pipe cutter, and some finessing to hook it back up. UCA stud nuts rusted beyond use also were found at the Grade 8 section in Lowe’s. Stabilized bar bushing bracket mounting bolts - Lowe’s as well.

In my case this vans been sitting for 5-6 years on flat tires through countless valley monsoons. Shock nuts were not reusable and the new ones did not come with new bolts so I again went to Lowe’s and matched up a nut with the old bolts. I pulled from a scrap yard the few bracket bolts rusted out or missing. The entire old MC and booster was a rusted out, leaky mess.

I included a before and after pic of both sides. I haven’t taken any post-assembly yet.

This van is a lot of fun to work on. Cheers.

You've been busy!

Trying!

Nvm.

aboard

Thanks!

Been a mess at home but here’s some pics I haven’t posted. All aligned up. New uppers, lowers, springs, shocks, tires. One of the calipers was seized completely so I ordered new AC Delco calipers but one was no good (banjo bolt threads destroyed) and had to return. So I did more searching and ordered AC Delco rebuild parts for my original calipers (half price also!). New pistons, bushings, seals, hardware. I’m using AC Delco for everything available.

At first I ordered a MC/booster set but the MC leaked like a retired prostitute so I had to pull it all back off and send it back. I found them separate and re installed them. So far so good.

Installed a 13.5kBTU low profile Dometic Penguin II (mass overkill for a van but it was laying around). Industry tip in installing/wiring RV ac: use 12/3 marine grade and 12g marine grade wiring throughout. Insulation is sometimes 3x more and always more pliable.

I chased some shorting back to the fuse panel where there is a pretty bad short. over head dome lights are melted. In doing so, I found the PO did the same thing as every speaker wire is cut, overhead visor light wires are cut, obvious evidence of chasing the same short. The rivers holding the metal to the back of the plastic fuse panel have come loose and are shorting out.

While I was installing the roof AC, I also did new vents and working roof fan, and a liberal rubber treatment (this dropped inside daytime ambient temps 10*). The ladder and storage bars on top are getting a mirror polish also.

More pics coming.

We had a job the other day replacing some carpet and tile with some laminate flooring. Right when I saw the carpet I knew exactly where the scraps were to end up. 😁 not permanent but it covers what’s there now while I’m in and out working all messy.

I knew I had a major propane leak because you could feel it coming out of the valve when you turned it on, so, drop the tank and put a new valve on it ($70). I now have furnace, hot water, and a stove!

Pic 1: beginning preparation for interior and new AC. Most walls and ceilings down, most cabinets and shelves out, most asbestos insulation is now out (using foam board and spray for the little spots in reinstall). Repairing other light water damage in joists and corroded wiring. 12g marine grade wire.

Pics 2 and 3: another AC Delco delivery.

Pic 4: When I’m doing offshoot jobs with torque settings I ALWAYS pick up a marker and physically re write the torque settings somewhere on either directions or the part itself for memory/safety purposes. I made a new rule today to also write foot or INCH pounds. At the moment I think, “this seems awful tight,” it snaps and sends shards flying like bullets.
Foot lb torque wrench will not work on an inch pound torque setting. 🥴 Luckily, there was a parts AC laying around that had the same piece of aluminum and I didn’t have to waste the $140 I just spent 30 minutes before on the ADB. 👍👍😎

So many posts in a row but I’m only allowed 5 pics per.

One last pic is the fuse panel short. You can see the melting behind.

Desperately looking for a good used one of these matching panels.

And thank you to everyone for the warm welcome and comments on the van.