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1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice!

Posted By: Vanube

1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - September 24th 2019 2:50 am

I've done the tune up stuff (cap, rotor, plugs, wires, synthetic oil, filters, valves, 44k fuel treatment) and still failed the second time due to high CO. I am at 84GPM CO with a limit of 45GPM. I am in Denver, CO.

Not quite sure yet if I have the Holley 2280, 6145, or Carter BBD. It's a 318, 5.2.

I'm wondering if I can just buy a new stock or upgraded carburetor for this van, bolt it on, and pass emissions. Or will a new carb still need to be adjusted? Things are expensive in this city and I'd like to try to avoid getting soaked by a mechanic. I've been quoted $500 by one mechanic.

Or should I be looking at other items (timing, catalytic converter, etc.)?

Thank you!!!
Posted By: Reed

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - September 24th 2019 4:52 am

First thing you need to do is determine if your van is equipped with some version of the notorious "lean-burn" computerized engine control system. Once you know, we cna help you pass emissions.

Don't just buy a carb and put it on and expect to pass. First, you need to know what kind of carb you need. Second, you need to know why the van is failing emissions right now. Third, you might very well be able to fix the van fo rmuch less than $500.

Carbon monoxide is a byproduct of incomplete combustion. This could be any one of a number of things, especially if you have a lean burn system.

To tell if you have lean burn, open the hood and look on the firewall over the engine. If you see a big black plastic box with a bunch of wires going into it or if you see a big plastic box hanging off the air cleaner, then you have lean burn. Another way to tell is to look at the carb and see if there are any wires going into the float bowl and to look at the distributor and see if it has a vacuum advance pod. Wires into the float bowl and/or no vacuum advance means lean burn. Check both because some systems only controlled the carb, others only controlled the timing, and some controlled both.

Alternatively, you could find the vacuum diagram under the hood and see if it mentions an "ESA" or "SPARK COMPUTER."

Check for lean burn and get back to us.
Posted By: Astrocreep66

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - September 24th 2019 10:54 am

Step one diagnose lean burn fault,step 2 replace with mopar electronic ignition kit and early carb.lol...i know some states are more strict on the backyard fix..lean burn either works or it don't no in between..the two dodge dealerships here replaced with the aforementioned remedy.🤔
Posted By: Reed

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - September 24th 2019 11:18 am

Most people rip out the lean burn because they don't want to deal with the vacuum hoses and wiring. It might be something as simple as a disconnected or misconnected vacuum hose or sensor input. Much cheaper and easier to fix what is there, if possible.
Posted By: Vanube

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - September 24th 2019 6:06 pm

Ok,I don't see any vac lines from distributor. Anyhow, here is what I have:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/bpVzumdE33AKyXaG9

THANKS GUYS!
Posted By: Deathorvictory

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - September 24th 2019 6:17 pm

If you have no vacuum advance, you’ve got yourself a lean burn system. Reed is the expert on this topic and can probably help guide you further
Posted By: Reed

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - September 24th 2019 7:06 pm

Yep, you have a lean burn system. The giveaways are the wires going into the float bowl on your Holley 6280 carburetor, no vacuum advance on the distributor, the big black box dead center on the firewall, and the box labelled "ESA" (that's Electronic Spark Advance) on the vacuum diagram. Fortunately, it looks like nobody has been in there hacking away without knowing what they are doing.

Option A: Fix what you have. The absolute first thing to do is get a factory service manual for your van and read the section about troubleshooting the lean burn system without the special factory tools.

I would start by rebuild what (fortunately) looks to be the original carburetor for the van. Be careful about dipping the main casting in carb cleaner. Those wires that go into the float bowl go to a stepper motor that controls the fuel mixture. The stepper motor can be damaged by submersion in carb cleaning fluid, so the main carb body casting will need to be cleaned by hand and with a spray can of carb cleaner.

The next thing I would do is carefully trace all the vacuum lines and make sure they are connected properly and not broken. Then I would do the same with all the sensors on the engine.

Third, I would get a hand held vacuum pump and make sure the vacuum transducer on the lean burn box still holds a vacuum. If that transducer goes bad the lean burn will definitely not work right.

If those steps don' fix it and the system checks out, then you might need to replace the catalytic converter. Get one of the newer California approved models. They stand a better chance of living longer behind a carb.


Obtion B: replace what you have.

First, modifying the emissions systems on your vehicle is a Federal crime. Be advised.

That being said, if the lean burn system is no longer functioning, your van will almost cetainly have lower emissions and get better MPG if you replace the systems controlled by the lean burn computer. This means obtaining a Carter BBD or Holley 2280 intended for a V-8 that was not computer controlled. You want to try and get one from the late 70s or early 80s so the fitting will match closely what you have on the van.

You also will need to replace your ignition system. The demonstrably best and cheapest ignition system you can install on your van is the hybrid HEI ignition. Get a distributor from a van or truck that had standard electronic ignition and get an HEI module for a late 70s GM v-8 engine. Then follow the instructions HERE with a slight modification.

The lean burn system did not use a ballast resister so you can ignore that part of the instructions.

The easiest way to convert a lean burn vehicle to HEI ignition is to run the + and - leads for the HEI to the + and - terminals on the coil, respectively. Then wire the leads to the distributor as per those instructions. Thats it! It is truly four wires and you are done. It is a good idea to use a relay to get full + power to the HEI module. In that case, just use the coil + feed as the trigger for the relay.

It isn't that hard to ditch lean burn, but you have to get the right parts.

It is also a good idea to upgrade your coil when you go to HEI. I like the Ford e-core coil. Cheap and powerful.
Posted By: Deathorvictory

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - September 24th 2019 7:53 pm

They also make HEI distributors with coil and module built in and the one I bought was cheaper than a stock dizzy from o reilly's. They are a 1 wire install.
Posted By: Reed

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - September 24th 2019 8:17 pm

I do not like those frankenstein distributors for several reasons. (1) they are ugly. (2) the huge head may cause interference with the firewall or doghouse, depending on the installation. (3) they are expensive. I can buy a NOS Mopar smallblock distributor for the same cost or less than one of those, or grab one from a junkyard for much less. I never buy "new" distributors since I have seen documentaiton that the Chinese manufactured units don't fit or work. (4) You have no idea what the mechanical and vacuum timing advance curve is on the unit.

I recommend getting a Mopar distributor from a truck or van to get a close to optimal timing curve.
Posted By: Astrocreep66

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - September 24th 2019 10:13 pm

My 86 slant 6 b150 was a lean burn previous owner put points back in it..jeeze that is a step in the way back direction. I ordered a pertronix for it,works super
Posted By: Vanube

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - September 24th 2019 11:07 pm

OK! Not sure what I'm going to do. But if I did go with the 2280

How can I tell if the 2280 is computer controlled?
How can I tell if was intended for a V8?

I would "Use an ordinary Chrysler electronic ignition distributor with a single pickup and vacuum advance." What exactly does single pickup mean? Would any of you know a part number or specific vehicle I can retrieve one of these from? I am open to buying new parts in order to get this van rolling sooner. Said NOS Mopar smallblock?

I would also replace the cap, rotor, ignition module, and coil. If you have suggestions for these specific parts as well, that would be great (particularly the cap and rotor.) I would also reference Reed's link for this info.

I haven't replaced a distributor before, so any references to other write-ups on this topic might be helpful. Though I do have the Chilton service manual.
Posted By: Reed

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - September 25th 2019 12:24 am

Originally Posted by Vanube
OK! Not sure what I'm going to do. But if I did go with the 2280

How can I tell if the 2280 is computer controlled?


By definition a 2280 is not computer controlled. The model number for the computer controlled equivalent is the Holley 6280. Look for wires entering the float bowl of the carb.

Originally Posted by Vanube
How can I tell if was intended for a V8?


Almost all Holley 2280 carbs are intended for 318 use, but some were calibrated for use on a 225 slant six. The best way to tell is by the list number of the carb. It should be stamped on the air horn. You can look it up online. You may also use a Carter BBD intended for a v-8.

Originally Posted by Vanube
I would "Use an ordinary Chrysler electronic ignition distributor with a single pickup and vacuum advance." What exactly does single pickup mean?


All electronic ignition distributors use a magnetic pickup in place of the older points ignition systems. Lean burn systems use two of these sensors under the distributor cap. If you don't know what a pickup looks like, make it easy on yourself. You want a distributor from a Mopar 318 or 360 that has a vacum advance pod and only two wires, not one, not four, going under the distributor cap.

Originally Posted by Vanube
Would any of you know a part number or specific vehicle I can retrieve one of these from? I am open to buying new parts in order to get this van rolling sooner. Said NOS Mopar smallblock?


Any 318 or 360 distributor from a 1973-mid 80s truck or van should be fine. HERE YOU GO! CLICK ON THIS TEXT! NOW!

Originally Posted by Vanube
I would also replace the cap, rotor, ignition module, and coil. If you have suggestions for these specific parts as well, that would be great (particularly the cap and rotor.) I would also reference Reed's link for this info.I haven't replaced a distributor before, so any references to other write-ups on this topic might be helpful. Though I do have the Chilton service manual.


My link is specific to slant sixes, so the part numbers for the cap, rotor, and wires won't work on a 318. I do recommend NGK plugs, and get the best quality cap and rotor you can afford.

The Chilton manual is OK for a short term get-by reference, but if you really want to work on your van you should invest in a factory service manual. They aren't very expensive on eBay.

Swapping a distributor on a smallblock is a cinch. The bottom of the distributor shaft has a lip that runs across the diameter of the shaft. The distributor will only seat with the rotor pointed correctly or pointed 180 degrees off. Pop the cap, note where the rotor is pointed, note the orientation of the clips for the cap, unplug the leads to the distributor, remove the holddown, pull distributor out. Align the clips for the cap on the new distributor to the same orientation as clips on the old distributor, point the rotor in the same direction as the old distributor, and drop it in. Last step is to run the vacuum hose form the distributor vacuum advance pod to the correct nipple on the carb.
Posted By: Vanube

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - September 25th 2019 1:11 am

HA! You're friggin amazing Reed.
Posted By: Reed

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - September 25th 2019 1:23 am

Nah. I just have wasted too much of my life getting into the minutiae of old Mopars.
Posted By: Vanube

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - September 25th 2019 2:02 am

You're a legend.

I think I'm seeing that most of these 2280s look the same. Except, some have a solenoid or perhaps an "electric throttle control" mounted underneath the bowl vent fitting (on the same side of the carb as the choke diaphragm). The red plastic cylinder in the attached photos.

Are there any attributes or functions that my new 2280 must have? Or mustn't have?

Does this carb look like it would work?

And then, to where do I run the plug from the new carb?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/KrqfdyHp6xeedE996
Posted By: Reed

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - September 25th 2019 2:34 am

That carb could work. That red cylinder you can ignore. It is a feature for systems you don't have. You could actually remove it. There are various fittings for different emisions and options packages.

Where does that black wire on the plug tucked into the carb throat go?
Posted By: Vanube

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - September 25th 2019 2:58 am

Cool. Yes, the one black wire.
Posted By: Vanube

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 06th 2019 6:38 pm

Replacing this distributor, how do assure proper orientation of the distributor body rotation? I understand the shaft will drop into the slot 180 degrees one way or the other. But the body rotates. Thank you!
Posted By: Vanube

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 06th 2019 7:17 pm

Nevermind. I got it.
Posted By: Vanube

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 13th 2019 1:17 am

When installing and wiring the power relay in order to "guarantee full line voltage to the ignition module at all times," can I wire both terminals 86 and 87 to the coil (+)? I'm thinking this should work considering:

a) terminal 86 "is your trigger feed. This one needs a 16ga wire that's live when the ignition is switched on." The original coil pickup (+) should supply power to the coil and relay terminal 86 at this time???

b) terminal 87 "is your power output. Connect this to the coil (+) and to the module's power terminal."

Is this correct?

Thanks a bunch guys!
Posted By: Reed

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 13th 2019 2:03 am

[Linked Image]
Originally Posted by Vanube
When installing and wiring the power relay in order to "guarantee full line voltage to the ignition module at all times," can I wire both terminals 86 and 87 to the coil (+)? I'm thinking this should work considering:

a) terminal 86 "is your trigger feed. This one needs a 16ga wire that's live when the ignition is switched on." The original coil pickup (+) should supply power to the coil and relay terminal 86 at this time???

b) terminal 87 "is your power output. Connect this to the coil (+) and to the module's power terminal."

Is this correct?

Thanks a bunch guys!


No. Terminal 86 needs to be connected to a power source that is live when the ignition is turned on (both in start and run). Terminal 87 is the clean "full power" output of the relay.

You can use the original coil + wire as the power feed to terminal 86. Then you should connect terminal 87 to the + terminal on the ignition module.

In other words, leave the factory + wire going to the coil. Make a new jumper wire that will go from the coil + terminal to terminal 86 on the relay. Then connect the module + terminal to terminal 87 of the relay.

If you wanted, you could hook the old coil + wire to terminal 86 but do not connect it to the coil. Then you could power both the coil and the HEI ignition module off of relay terminal 87.
Posted By: Vanube

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 13th 2019 6:41 pm

Excellent, thank you!

I have this new 2280 carb (photo attached.) The one I have looks like this minus electronics. I'm uncertain about where to hookup

a) the EGR line (my old carb is a 6280.) Do I connect this to the "ported EGR system" port or to the "EGR amplifier."

b) the 6280 had a port for brake booster, the 2280 does not. Where do I connect the brake booster line?

c) and where to connect vacuum advance from distributor? Straight to the manifold?

THANK YOU!

Attached picture 2280-info.jpg
Posted By: Reed

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 13th 2019 7:14 pm

A) both. The vacuum amplifier goes to the vacuum amplifier port and the EGR line goes to the poerted EGR port.

B) neither carb did/does have a port for the brake booster. The brake booster connects to the vacuum tree on the intake manifold.

C) the distributopr vacuum advance hose connects to the distributor vacuum advance port on the carburetor. As you look at the fuel inlet on the carb, the correct fitting is below and to the left of the float bowl.

[Linked Image]
Posted By: Vanube

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 13th 2019 8:18 pm

A) That HEI write up for slant sixes says: terminal 87 "is your power output. Connect this to the coil (+) and to the module's power terminal." So you're saying this is incorrect and only connect 87 to the modules (+) terminal?

B) The image attached is a 6280 with a brake booster port. You'll notice on the attached image that there is only one EGR fitting. So I have one EGR hose. My question was to which EGR fitting on the 2280 do I connect it to?

The 2280 diagram you've attached- interesting how the labels are all incorrect on the lower left diagram image.

THANKS!

Attached picture 6280.gif
Posted By: Reed

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 13th 2019 10:05 pm

Originally Posted by Vanube
A) That HEI write up for slant sixes says: terminal 87 "is your power output. Connect this to the coil (+) and to the module's power terminal." So you're saying this is incorrect and only connect 87 to the modules (+) terminal?


No, you can do it two ways. If you only want to power the ignition module wiuth the relay, don't connect the coil + terminal to terminal 87 on the relay. If you want to power both the coil and the module through the relay, connect them both to the terminal.

Originally Posted by Vanube
B) The image attached is a 6280 with a brake booster port. You'll notice on the attached image that there is only one EGR fitting. So I have one EGR hose. My question was to which EGR fitting on the 2280 do I connect it to?

The 2280 diagram you've attached- interesting how the labels are all incorrect on the lower left diagram image.

THANKS!


Only some carbs have the dual PCV/Brake booster ports. Most just have the PCV port. THe diagram I posted has the heated air and EGR fittings reversed in the lower left picture, yes. That is a scan from a factory Dodge service manual, so somebody dropped the ball during proofreading. I would connect the one EGR hose to the EGR fitting.
Posted By: Vanube

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 14th 2019 12:27 am

Great, thanks Reed! One last thing. I'm left with a ESC (electronic spark?) vacuum line with no more available ports. Should this go to the intake manifold vacuum tower?
Posted By: Reed

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 14th 2019 12:50 am

It doesn't matter. If you are abandoning the lean burn systems then that vacuum hose is redundant. However, the vacuum line connects to the lean burn transducer which requires a soure of manifold vacuum. On carburetors designed to work with lean burn systems there is a port on the carb for the "Electronic Spark Control [ESC]" that provides the correct manifold vacuum. If you are eplacing the carburetor with one not designed to be used with a lean burn system then the ESC hose can be connected to any source of manifold vacuu. The vacuum tree or "T"'d into the vacum choke pulloff line.
Posted By: Vanube

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 14th 2019 5:27 pm

!!!!!! Thank you!
Posted By: Vanube

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 16th 2019 1:21 am

A) As of yet, I haven't been able to locate the ballast resistor ("ignition resistor" in the factory service manual). I tested the original coil + lead and it shows 12 volts. Am I missing something?

B) Also, trying to locate the voltage regulator. Possibly inside the alternator?
Posted By: Reed

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 16th 2019 2:32 am

A) lean burn ignition systems do not have a ballast resistor.

B) voltage regulator is a square metal device on ther firewall with an inverted triangle shaped plug with two wires. There is no exact location. I varied based on who assembled the van at the factory.
Posted By: DadsVan

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 17th 2019 12:29 am

not to butt in here but on my 87 b150 the voltage regulator is directly behind the winshield wiper motor on upper firewall...hope this helps
Posted By: Reed

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 17th 2019 1:21 am

Yup, that is one place it could be. I have seen them all over.
Posted By: Vanube

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 18th 2019 11:23 pm

Install complete! It's running pretty darn good too. Thanks guys!

Yet another question: I went to set the timing and figured I could shine my light up from underneath the van because there is a marker mounted there however I could not see my mark on the damper. There doesn't seem to be a way to shine the light down from the top as the power steering pump blocks view. I must being doing it wrong!
Posted By: Reed

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 18th 2019 11:32 pm

Congratulations!

There should be a secondary timing tab down on the bottom of the vibration damper. I know Chrysler started putting one there on the vans and some trucks in the early 80s. I used to have an 83 B150 tht had a 318 and it had two timing tabs. You have to pretty much lay on the ground to see the marks. You might have to clean road grime off of it to see the marks. The timing mark on the damper also probably needs to be cleaned up.
Posted By: Vanube

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 18th 2019 11:48 pm

I did clean things up and there seems to be four marks (grooves/slots) equally spaced around the damper. 3 of them are slotted half way through the width of the damper. 1 of them is slotted all the way through the width of the damper (this one has numbers etched-in before and after the slot like a ruler.) When I shine the timing light on the damper from underneath the van at idol, none of these marks are even close to 0 or 10 on the marker. It looks like there's another marker mounted on top but you simply can't see it or shine a light at it.
Posted By: Reed

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 19th 2019 12:01 am

Yes. Those four marks are for the magnetic pickup system Chrysler was using in the 70s and 80s. See thse tubes that are on the timing tabs? Those were for the magnetic pickups that dealerships used on their timing lights and diagnostic machines. Everyone else just uses a timing light.

The top timing tab was the one used on trucks and cars where you could see the tab from the top. THe ower tab is mainly a van thing due to the short nose of the van.

If it isn't immediatly obvious which timing mark on the damper is the one you use to find TDC on the #1 cylinder, then you are going to have to use a piston stop tool to find TDC manually. Part of the problem is the four timing marks, part of the problem is the fact that the timing marks are on the outer ring of the vibration damper that is bonded to the inner ring and the vulcanized rubber that holds the outer ring on can degrade over time and allow the out ring to slip. When the outer ring slips it no longer accurately indicates TDC. The only thing to do then is find TDC manually usuing a piston stop tool. It isn't hard, but you have ot know how to do it right.

(1) remove plug from cylinder 1
(1.5) remove the valve cover over cuylinder 1 and rotate the crank while watching the valves. Rotate the crank until you see the intake valve on piston 1 open and then close. This ensures you are on the compression stroke.
(2) install the piston stop tool
(3) rotate crank clockwise by hand until piston contacts the piston stop tool.
(4) make a line on the damper at the TDC mark on the timing tab
(5) rotate the crank counterclockwise until piston contacts piston stop tool
(6) mark a line on the damper at the TDC mark on the timing tab.
(7) TDC on the crank is halfway between the two marks you made on the damper. Don't be surprised if true TDC does not line up with the mark cast into the damper. Make a new mark at true TDC on your damper.
(8) rotate the crank clockwise until the true TDC mark you made on the damper lines up with TDC on the timing tab. Congratulations. Your motor is now at true TDC on the compression stroke of the #1 piston.
(9) disconnect vacuum advance hose and plug it
(10 ) reinstall the plug in #1, along with the #1 plug wire
(11) start engine and use the timing light to set your base timing a specified.

Done.
Posted By: Vanube

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 21st 2019 1:06 am

I'll do it! I got the beefed up cap, rotor, wires. What kind of plugs do you recommend?
Posted By: Reed

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 21st 2019 2:21 am

I like NGK plugs.
Posted By: Vanube

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 22nd 2019 6:23 pm

I set the timing. The van is sputtering and lurching (kind of like jerking if you were to pop the clutch) at low speed coming out of first and second gear. I don't think this is a timing problem. I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the vacuum system. Disconnecting certain vac lines from the carb effect this problem. Though, only improving it slightly. It runs best after disconnecting several of them.

Is it possible to illiminate any of these? Just plug them?
Posted By: Reed

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 22nd 2019 6:40 pm

If it ran good before adjusting timing, I would start diagnosing by looking at the timing.

Are you positive you were using the correct timing mark? Are you positive you had the timing light clipped onto the spark plug wire for the #1 cylinder? Are you using a "dial back" timing light? if so, are you sure it was set to zero? You set the base timing to 10-12 BTDC, right? Not ATDC? Are all plug wires connected to the cap and plugs?

The vacuum hoses you still need to leav attached to the carb are the PCV, the heated air intake, the EGR, the bowl vent, the cannister purge, and the distributor vacum advance. What else is hooked up to the carb still?
Posted By: Vanube

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 22nd 2019 6:53 pm

Yes, timing is done correctly.

This was happening before setting the timing. I thought setting the timing would eliminate the problem.

All of those you listed are hooked up and none others.

I drove it briefly before setting the timing with the canister purge disconnected, air cleaner removed, EGR disconnected and plugged, distributer disconnected and plugged at the distributor and it ran as normal.
Posted By: Reed

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 22nd 2019 7:22 pm

Define "ran as normal." Ran problem free? Or ran exhibiting the same symptoms of sputtering and poor performance?

Where do you have the distributor vacuum advance line attached on the carb?
Posted By: Vanube

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 22nd 2019 7:56 pm

"as normal" meaning without problems. Distributor is connected to "to distributor" port, passenger side front of carb below bowl vent fitting.
Posted By: Reed

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 22nd 2019 8:07 pm

OK, disconnect all vacuum lines from the carb and reconnect one at a time until you find the one that causes the problems.
Posted By: Vanube

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 22nd 2019 10:36 pm

OK, well I disconnected the canister purge- I left all the other lines connected and tried to start the engine. No start. Now it won't start at all! Ha!

Tried to start it many times.
Posted By: Reed

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - October 22nd 2019 10:44 pm

(1) where are you connecitng the cannister purge line on the carb?
(2) are you capping the fitting on the carb when you disconnect the hose?

Sounds like you might be fighting a vacuum leak issue.
Posted By: Vanube

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - November 03rd 2019 10:53 pm

Got it running. It was flooded. Pulled plugs and let it sit.

I'm going back to the timing.

1) when I checked the timing after installing the new distributor (in the exact orientation as the old distributor) it was over 30deg.

2) I set the timing to 10deg and the van runs poorly and and won't start after stopping the engine.

3) I am certain I used the the piston stop tool correctly and Actually... After making my marks on the balancer... My TDC lined up perfectly with one of the grooves.

So this thing seems to be running better at 30+deg than 10deg. Something tells me this is unusual.

Any words on this? Much appreciated!
Posted By: Deathorvictory

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - November 03rd 2019 11:39 pm

I recently installed a new distributor in my 79 b200 and the replacement was installed exactly in the same clocked position and it wouldn’t run correctly and barely started. I had to re time despite the difference in position and she runs perfect. Not sure what’s up with these distributors, or why that happens but haven’t had any issues since and driven 700+ miles on these parts
Posted By: Ram4ever

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - November 10th 2019 9:40 pm

Do you have a vacuum gauge you could attach to monitor the vacuum during operation? I'm with Reed on this; it seems to be the major missing data point.

Have you looked down the carb throat to be sure the butterflies are really completely closed when you first depress and release your accelerator pedal? Sometimes the linkage gets misadjusted or wears over the years, or the linkage springs wear out or wrong ones are installed, then various owners and mechanics start screwing around with the mixture and idle speed, getting some really bizarre combinations.

I've seen the control diaphragms blow out internally in those charcoal canisters, resulting in massive hidden vacuum leaks... Backfires are a common cause of this. If you attach a handheld vacuum pump to the master charcoal canister control fitting and pull a vacuum it should hold.

And on old vehicles where odd sputtering symptoms occur, I always suggest inspecting the fuel tank cap; the vents may become obstructed, causing the fuel system to pull a vacuum against the tank. You could try running the cap partially unseated to see if there's a difference.

And sometimes the throttle kickdown linkage can be so far off that weird things happen, especially during acceleration from low speed. If you do adjust idle speed, you really should revisit the kickdown adjustment just to be certain.
Posted By: Vanube

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - December 05th 2019 3:18 am

Thanks guys. I appreciate the response very much. I'm going to try these - and try doing a full tune on the carb and see where I'm at after that.
Posted By: NateB

Re: 1985 Dodge B150 fails emissions twice! - April 02nd 2020 4:37 pm

I just read this whole thread. Any updates?
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