Well guys and gals, I've finally gone and done it.
We've had a pretty rough time up here in Michigan for the last 6 months at least (a large part of why I have not been on the forum as much as I used to be). Unfortunately, that includes the loss of both of my parents in the last 3 months.
This 1997 Express was my Mom and Dad's van. They ordered it new through Midwest Conversions, using my (then GM) employee discount on the chassis. They had the chance to meet the owner of Midwest Conversions, sit down with him, and order just what they wanted for options and colors. Dad owned a lot of nice vehicles over the years, and this was his favorite (it was his 5th van).
The van was stored indoors all of it's early life, used primarily for pulling their 28-ish foot travel trailer. Later, when they traded their last trailer for a motorhome, it became strictly a pleasure vehicle.
As the years passed, and old age took their health and ability to travel, the van saw less and less use. Even when they moved into assisted living homes, Dad kept the van close at hand. Finally, they moved to a small house without a garage, and as a second vehicle, it sat in the back yard, and was not driven or started for many years. Still, he could give it up.
With their passing, the van had to go. The reason I joined this form (sans-van) was that I had hoped to have a chance to buy it some day. Well, that day is here. I'd rather have my folks with me, but the van and it's many happy memories will have to do.
As this is yet another daily driver for me, and I have 4 old cars (IE: "classic"), and a meager budget to spend on toys, don't expect to see much in the way of outlandish or wild mods. But a have a few changes in mind.
She's in really nice shape, about 75k miles.
1997 Chevrolet Express 1500 255 H.P. 5.7L Vortec V8 4L60E OD Automatic Transmission 8.6 rear axle with 3.73 gears (I don't think it has G80, but I'm not sure) Midwest conversion with grey interior, alcantara headliner, leather FlexSteel seating.
I took this picture last weekend, but won't take possession of the van for a little while yet.
Sorry for your loss Dave. I also lost both my parents, Mom in Feb '14 & my dad in May '14. Cant tell ya how much it hurts not to see them anymore. Cryin right now thinking about them & you losin yours.
There not totally gone as long as they are in your heart.
Dyno Dave, Sincerest Condolences on the passing of your Mom and Dad.
Standing shoulder to shoulder in Solidarity right between you and frscke1. Good you were there with your parents.
Vanned out here to Texas to see Mom, realized I wasn't going anywhere. But we had a ton of fun, busting her out of rehab to live at home for a few more years, the last wild ride in her Cadillac.
Thanks for sharing the story of the Family Express Van. Cool history. Nice Van Dave!
Thanks Wedgy. They had a lots of great trips in the van, many of them up here to Michigan to see us. As I mentioned, this was Dad's 5th conversion van, and I have a lot of good memories of those earlier trucks as well.
I can't wait to get it here. We want to take it to Florida this year, so she will need some work before a long road trip.
Until I can pick the van up (likely at Easter), my brother has been doing a thing or two to it.
All locks are working now with the key (2 were frozen up). The power like on the side cargo doors is now working (corroded contact). Radio, tape, CD and power antennae are all working, though at least one speaker is shot. A stereo upgrade will certainly be in order.
The tires are OK for now, but a wheel and tire upgrade are planned.
The power passenger mirror is cracked. A new glass has been ordered.
The only item inop. when I pick it up will be the A/C. Likely just needs a recharge. I'll take care of that.
Not much exciting news...as I still don't have the van yet.That won't happen until Easter. But I have worked the extra day at the office to earn Good Friday off, so I will have plenty of drive time.
I did get my LMC catalog in the mail this week. Also picked up a set of factory manuals. '96s, as I thought that's what the van was. Have since learned it's a '97. Doh! Hopefully not too much changed 1 year after platform launch.
Custom parts for the GMT600/GMT610 Express/Savana platform does not have the support the 3rd gen vans used to...just a generation too late I guess.
But these folks appear to have many of the pieces I'd be wanting....several designs of roof spoiler, billet grille inserts, chrome mirror covers / trim package, sun visor, cowl cover, rear window louvers...seems like a pretty sweet selection.
Has anyone here done business with them? How is the parts quality, service, parts in stock, etc.?
One week from today, I'll be driving home with my van!
Worse news for you, the reader...I just discovered I can use this site from my phone (not a big web-browsing-via-the-phone guy), so expect a post and photo or two from the road.
Yes, safe for the most part. The van ran like a top. Could not be happier with it.
The driver had a shaky day. Missed several turns, but got a nice tour of central and western Indiana that I had not intended. Made for a long day. Was pretty tired by the end. But she's home safe and sound. Burned a bottle of Chevron Techron through it on the way. And discovered a few little things it needs (most of which I knew about...speakers, A/C charge, brake refresh, and few other details).
Going to need a few days to get caught up at work,and on chores, but we'll start in on a few improvements to the van pretty quickly.
Before I left Springfield, I swung by to see the owner at Truckin' Specialties. Unfortunately he was out of town. I'll have to stop and talk vans again sometime.
I guess I've become a little more dependent on GPS than I realized, when lost. I left TomTom at hope because I flew down. And the atlas in the van was 20 years old. The road I ended up taking cross-state (25) wasn't even in the atlas.
Can not figure out how to get the back bench to fold down. Mechanism seems to be there for it for move, but I can not find a latch anywhere. I'll keep looking.
Went through a stack of receipts. Looks like Dad has just about every receipt for work done on the van. I know of a few gaps, but the documentation is 95% there.
Took her on the road again today. Made a run to Elkhart Indiana to pick up a Borla exhaust system for the Trans Am. She ran great. Did discover one or two more things to look into before our summer vacation.
Who knows if / when I'll ever be in Elkhart with the van again. She's a Midwest conversion, which was in Elkhart. Is this the successor company? Maybe. But on the van's 20th anniv., it was too good of a photo op to pass up.
Shoot. You were in my neck of the woods then! I live only 30 min from Elkhart and work even closer.
There are so many van/RV companies around here, that could be the same one, but most likely it's not. They come and go every few years with the economy it seems.
Yeah, I know I Google mapped a location/address that I found (not this one), so who knows. We've had travel trailers, motorhomes and conversion vans since about '73. Knew about the area, and had been through many times. Camped at Eby Pines, ate at Das Dutchman Essenhaus, etc. But it's been many years since I was in the area, and I've never come in via 80/90, which I did yesterday. It's fun to see all the names you know...not just coach manufacturers, but suppliers like Dexter, Camco, Atwood...like walking through a Camping World store.
Dad loved this van, loved his RVs, camped with Mom many time at Eby Pines on his way to Michigan to see us, and loved his early rock and country music. As we were driving home leaving the Elkhart area, 88.1 played a program that was a tribute to Sun records. Being there in that part of the country, rolling down the road in that van, listening to that show, was just too much.
Well ladies and gents, it's new tire time for the Express.The current whitewall Mastercraft extra loads are 12 years old, and still go down the road great, but have some checking and cracking, so it's time to plan an upgrade.
Ultimately, I'd like to have two sets of wheels and tires for it. The stock wheels (which I've always liked) with a stock or near stock size that won't mess with the ABS, and will have the load carrying capacity to go with the towing package. The van will see some towing duty (travel trailer, car trailer when I get one). The second set down the road will be more for looks / show, with some wider 60s, perhaps in a staggered size. But I'm not willing to give up on looks with the "work shoes". So here's the plan I've been thinking about since before I bought the van.
Paint: The conversion has a nice medium blue metallic on the running boards. I like it, but it's fairly pedestrian, in keeping with the mild appearance of the conversion package. That paint is failing. So I'd like to have the boards repainted in a stronger blue, with large metal flake in it. In style or not, I've always loved big metal flake...think bass boat, bowling ball, Manx buggy, etc. Not necessarily these, but something along these lines.
The factory wheels are in good shape for 20 years old, but not as pretty as they ought to be. So a refinish is in order. And while getting new tires is the perfect time to do it, right? Here's a wheel like mime. I think we'll refinish the grey / anthracite / argent backgrounds of the wheels in this blue metallic.
Then paint the boards in the same blue flake as the budget allows, and maybe another item or two. Ultimately maybe some graphics / stripes to replace the vinyl stripes. It will always be a '90s conversion van...I'm not going to try and change it's nature. But that doesn't mean it can't be a little more eye catching, and unique.
So now for tires. And as with all of this...open to hearing opinions and options from others. But I feel like I've boiled my tire choices down to the following.
If I stay with the stock size, 235/75/15, I have these OWL options, in tires/brands/designs I like.
BFG Long Trail T/A: Had these on an extended S-10 many years ago. A good tire. A lot of classic T/A styling. (Note: there may be Radial T/A option, but I'm just not comfortable with them as my towing tire).
Michelin: I've owned Michelins on many vehicles, and just find them to be the best quality, the roundest, the smoothest, longest wearing...so these would be the "best" tires, and best value with their long life, but the sidewalls of Michelins of this type have always been a little bland to my eye. Also a Sam's Club option here that's hard to beat on price.
Firestone Destination LE2: I love the styling of these, and have had good luck with Stones over the years.
GoodYear Wrangler HT: I had these on my shorty '95 Santa Fe conversion (all be it in an Extra Load which is no longer available), and loved them on the road. Excellent tire. But perhaps the most truck-like, and least sporty looking in appearance of the bunch.
General Grabber HTS60: Lastly, I can upgrade in aspect ratio a bit with a 255/70/15, and keep my speedo really close. Sadly, not a ton of tires in that size. But there is this one that looks really good, and has the capacity I need. This will give me another 3/4" of tread width...not eye popping, but I'll take whatever I can get. A little drab in the sidewall like the Michelin, but I like the tread pattern, and the 70 series.
Please share your thoughts and opinions. It's nice to have options!
We have a fairly recent set of Long Trail TAs on my wife's truck. We're disappointed in how they're cracking between the tread. This will be the first set of tires I've had to replace because they weathered before they wore out.
Congrats on the Van, that's pretty cool. Good job there! 12 years is good service, but it's time.
I have put the Generals on both of the one tons. I like them a lot. I have 245 75 16, on both. They're noticeably stiff on the unladen Chevy, but stick it to the road good, even in a 50 mph crosswind. A good choice for towing, for sure. I'm happy.
They are nice on the Campervan, replacing a set of Michelins, that weren't worn, but had cracked sidewalls after 8 years.
Thanks guys. I'm leaning toward those General Grabbers, and what you two are adding only convinces me it's not a bad way to go. Thank you.
I'll admit it,,,I'm a kid...I want the 70s! Just need to check her over and make sure I have the extra room for the width. At 3/4" wider, I cannot imagine that there's not a ton of room.
We have a local GMC/Buick dealer (once Pontiac) that's a big supporter of our Pontiac Oakland Club International (POCI) club chapter. As a Pontiac owner, I really appreciate their support. Like most GM dealers, they sell tires, and promise to price match. I have a call in to them for a quote.
Still kicking around what to do for wheels and tires. Plans have changed a little. I thought the local shop was in the $100 per rim range to refinish, but it's actually $200 per. And I wasn't sure what I was going to do about the centers anyway.
The aftermarket rims I want are only $109 each plus shipping, so I'm leaning toward just getting those. They do have just enough weight carrying capacity for the van.
The wife, of course, thinks the existing rims are fine.
My daughter decided she would like to have me play chauffeur for her and 3 of her friends for Prom tomorrow. She rode in the van a week or so ago, and liked it enough to want to use it for the dance. So I took today off to clean, clean, clean. And I could use another day.
The truck didn't look bad. But the more you look, the more you find.
I decided this was as good of a time as any to photograph some of the decals on the truck, Just in case they fade, peal, etc. Going through the extensive paperwork that came with the van, I found a quality survey sent to the first owner of the van by the Wentzville Assembly plant. It was made out to Starcraft. That's when I remembered that Midwest had to trade to get the chassis Dad wanted, with the features and colors he wanted. This tag confirms that they had it in their inventory first.
Unfortunately, Midwest's paint and decal code sticker has faded beyond use.
The SPID is intact, and does confirm (as does the window sticker) it has the Eaton locking differential, RPO G80. It was the only part of the powertrain I wasn't absolutely sure about.
As I mentioned above, the aftermarket wheels I want would support a 7200 lb. GVWR, and this decal confirms a factory rating of 7100 lb. GVWR. So they should be good for this application. Unfortunately, they also show the tires were extra loads from the factory. And none of the tires I'm currently considering come in an extra load.
The leather seats clean up great. Only the slightest bit of wear on the driver seat...some very, very slight loss of grey color starting on the bottom cushion edge. These FlexSteel seats are the most comfortable thing I have ever sat in for a long trip. I just love them. And the driver seat is 6-way power adjustable, has a manual recline, and a manual lumbar support. The wife wants heated seats. It's on the to-do list.
As I've mentioned before, this van sat for several years, and has a few challenges. This engine compartment (if you can call it that) is one of them. I'll be able to spend a day just cleaning in here. K&N filter though, so that's nice. New battery too.
The door panels, and the whole interior really, are in great shape.
The side doors and rear doors have opening windows, which I love. Need to go back and clean behind them though.
For 20+ years old, she has an amazing lack of door dings or other damage. There is one light door ding / crease that I will have to get the paintless dent repair guy to look at when I have the trim panel off adding Dynamat to quite the doors...those side and rear doors sound like a trash can when you close them.
The A/C was not working. No obvious leaks, so I used my home made vacuum pump, pulled vacuum on the system for a bit, then added some refrigerant. It's working now, but probably need another pound to be "right". I want to find one with some oil in it, as the first 3 pounds went in dry.
The door jambs ranged from merely dirty, to very nasty. All clean now.
OK guys...Don't let this happen to you!
Don't drive around with a dirty mast!
Just fully extend it, wipe it down with acetone per the owner manual...
...and viola! A shiny stainless mast that will provide years of good service.
Did I mention the roof needed a little work? Makes my feet and back hurt just to think about it, but it's done now.
But she's all cleaned up. There's more to do, but it's looking much better now, and should be good for Prom.
Had a final hour or so to do a little more cleaning and detailing. A little shine for the tires, then the bumper trim. These plastic caps get a little dull looking after 20 years, even if much of that time was spent indoors.
I've used this Mother's product on my T/A, and it works just as well on grey as on black.
And even the interior trim. I'll do the step wells after the dance. I don't need 4 teenage girls trying to get in and out of the van in heels on slippery plastic.
And Prom went well. Lots of room for big dresses, and they liked the van and the interior lights at night. I tell you, some of the limos there were not in as good of condition as our van, so I felt pretty good about it all. I'm sure my Dad was happy to see his van taking his grand-daughter and her friends to her senior Prom.
More to do...the A/C is still underwhelming. It certainly needs that addition 1 - 1.25 pounds of 134a. I'll find one with a shot of oil in it (AutoZone didn't have any..only synthetic, and 134a with snot in it), and get that done this weekend. Needs the glass cleaned inside and out, and the license plate lamp is burned out. I'll try to get those all done this weekend.
I went to top off my a/c today, and I think it had lost most of the charge I had put in Thursday. Not good.
Moved on to a simple 5 minute job...the license plate lamp. I've worked on automobiles long enough to know that there are no simple jobs on a 20 year old vehicle. One screw came out, the other broke. Hardware store only had those nuts in the next larger size. So I bought them, and some stainless fasteners.
Cleaned up the housing and replaced the bulb, and it's back together. But I need to make a new, thicker gasket for it, as those larger nuts push the lamp housing out a bit further.
Those new clips were thicker, and the lamp wouldn't mount flush. There was a gap around the gasket. So I picked up some thicker foam tonight, to make a new gasket from.
A reman'd / refreshed / uupdated Delco radio is on it's way. Aside from being cleaned, tuned, new lights and knobs, it has an aux. input (MP3) jack in the face plate, and RCA pre-amp outputs in the back.
New front speakers, an amp, and assorted installation accessories are also on their way too.
She's just back from the shop. I couldn't seem to get the a/c right, though it was cooling pretty well. I had suspected a large leak. A tiny one was the best I could hope for, as the a/c had gone flat after sitting for 5+ years.
Anyway, shop pulled a vacuum on it, it sat for 4 hours, no loss of vacuum. Drained, recharged, and she cools very well. Time will tell for how long, but I'm very optimistic based on the vacuum test. She needed a couple of turn signal bulbs, got the lube, oil and filter treatment, and that was it. Full inspection, everything passed with a clean bill of health (except tires, which we knew about). Very, very happy.
The radio has arrived, as has the amp, and 4 front speakers. Also a small sub. I like my bass and drum players, but they are rhythm and in the background, not a lead IMO.
So I'm hoping for some nice weather this weekend, and we'll dig in on some more of these chores.
Dash trim off, rear fan switch removed, radio exposed. Only two easy clips hold it in place.
Squeaze clips, slide it out of the magnesium beam, wires off, and she's outta there.
Opened up the box with the new radio. Wrapped nicely, with vendor info. A pretty professional operation.
Old on top, new on the bottom.
These radios were a good chassis, but have a few issues that crop up as they age. The knobs split, and the "paint" wears off some of the bottoms. Most rebuilders add new knobs, and a new face plate with buttons, as was done here. New lights so they know they all work, and a few other tweaks inside, like cleaning, and replacing the tape player belt. This particular unit has had an MP3 jack added to it's face, and pre-amp RCA outs added to the back.
Looks very nice, but I do have a few nits to pick.
As you can see in this photo, the replacement radio has mounting ears as part of the chassis; my original in the background does not. Hopefully they won't be in the way.
Secondly, one of those ears is bent. Hopefully it left them like that, and it's not a sign of how rough of a ride it had getting here. Although one corner of the box was pushed in some, and I took photos of that.
Also, while it's hard to see in this photo, the replacement (china) faceplate is black, my radio and all interior switches and controls are grey. This I'm not sure I can live with. With the conversion van wood trim separating the radio from everything else, I might be able to tolerate it. But I won't know until it's installed.
Lastly, that faceplate, being a china replacement, lacks the Delco Electronics and Theftlock names. Sort of screams china replacement, and I'm not too happy about that either.
I'm going to look for a place to mount the amp before I install this. Hopefully I can find a little un-used space for it to hide. I already spotted one such space for sure.
Now to that rear fan switch that I removed earlier. The switch works, but the lighting did not. I'm working under the "assumption" that is is supposed to be back-lit.
I've never had one of these switches apart, nor have a seen an online article from anyone who has. I start digging in, thinking there will be a small bulb behind the face of the switch. So, off with the face, right? While this switch assembly snaps together for easy assembly, it does not snap apart for easy service! In fact, it did not want to budge. Could not get those little barbed ears to move at all on one side, and had to really abuse the switch body on the other side. Here, I gave up, and am Dremeling the tabs off the side that would not budge.
Success! The face has a nice fresnel-like lens to provide even lighting.
Viola! Switch internals. Crap...no bulb, but 2 LEDs soldered to a board. So that's lesson one for anyone else who ever endeavors to do this.
Now at this point, I could try to scrounge a good switch from a bone yard, but two things...I like fixing original parts when I can, and second, if the LEDs are burned out in my 78k mile van, what are the odds a junk yard part would be any better? Lets see what it might be like to replace those LEDs.
It looks like that circuit board is held in by some tabs also (great...more tabs). As a matter of fact, the whole switch is built in layers, and the lower portion also comes apart with...tabs.
And that's lesson two. Didn't have to struggle so mightily taking the face off the switch. Could have dropped the bottom out of the switch in the first place.
So these little LEDs get their "blue" from little rubber covers that slip off. Nice! They can be reused, and that way I will know that the "blue" will be the same shade as before. Of course, I'll have to source two new LEDs, have no idea of the brightness, and they will have to be soldered.
Our local Radio Shack closed this year. Having no other local electrical trinkets and trash vendors that I know of, I turn to the web version of Radio Shack.
...which has no specs at all. So I'm not sure that's better, except that I would not be "knowingly" over powering them.
Anyone have any other ideas or options for me here? I have submitted a question in writing to Radio Shack via their website, but can't expect an answer until mid-week at best.
About your heat switch: LEDs are usually 2.5-3.5 volts or whatever and use a suitable resistor to work in a 12v circuit. Here are my observations:
1. I don't see any resistors on that board... 2. LEDs last a really long time (I could see one failing, but probably not both, unless the array has an issue)... 3. '97 seems awfully early for LEDs in a production vehicle... 3. Are you sure they're LEDs in the first place? In the picture where the blue cover is off, it looks more like glass with a filament than an LED, and that black base also seems to say bulb rather than LED.
If I could see the uncovered component better (without the reflection), I might be able to tell for sure what it is.
Thank you sir. Hoping to use it for a summer trip, so I have to keep after it.
Originally Posted by Rusty_Pancelode
Are you sure they're LEDs in the first place?
Well, you know, that's a great question. And I too was surprised to find two LEDs burned out. My up close vision is not excellent any more...I need readers, and even they would not provide the magnification I'd need to check for a filament. I think I have a magnifying glass in my tool box. I'll have to take a closer look.
Since they were soldered to the board, I just assumed LEDs. I've never seen an incandescent bulb soldered to a board. I'll take a look tonight.
Damn. This is what I get for not wearing my readers.
So now the question becomes, where to find tiny little light bulbs?
And I guess the LEDs I ordered won't work? I asked there tech support, by phone, because I don't know much about these things, about the voltage rating. He confirmed my belief that the published 3.2V rating was what it took to forward bias the diode, and that they WOULD work in a 12V circuit.
I would think that either of those ebay bulbs would work.
About those LEDs you bought... 12v will destroy the LEDs without a matched resistor to split the voltage. He's right when he says it will forward bias the diode, but it will also destroy the PN junction.
OK, bulbs are ordered for the switch, but they won't be in for a week. So on to the speaker install in the front doors.
Confession time, I broke some stuff tonight. Not a good night, so I finished the disassembly job, and stopped. In my youth I would have kept going, getting more frustrated, until I broke more parts, or started throwing tools, or both. I've learned when to walk away. Most days I'm pretty good at fixing stuff, but not always. On an off day, it's better to set the tools down and walk away. I post projects with the steps needed, warts and all, so the next GMT600 owner can avoid breaking the things I did.
Also, someone had been in here before me. A few scarred up screws, a few broken clips and tabs. Though I would break more of them.
First, the small upper trim plate that is the door handle surround, power window switch and power door lock switch mount, and tweeter mounting, Remove the little trap door behind the door handle, remove two screws behind the door handle, one spring clip at the bottom of the plate, and two tabs up top, rotate it past the door handle, undo the the harness connectors, and it's off. The rear tab was broken off already. Unexpected additional repair number 1. Not sure what I'm going to be able to do about that, but I'll try to come up with something.
One of the speakers I'm here to replace, the tweeter, is heat staked to the trim. Nice. Great for assembly, lousy for service. Going to have to compare the new component speaker carefully BEFORE I go cutting this one out of there.
More signs I am not the first to walk this path. The wiring harness for the tweeter has a clip, to help prevent rattles. It's not attached to anything, and I'm not sure what it's meant to be attached to. If I can't figure it out, I can always come back to it, if the driver side shows me how it was to be done.
Two more screws in the grip of the padded elbow rest. Removed them, very very lightly tugged on the pad, and snapped three super thin, toothpick sized retainers off. The ones on the driver door are already broken, so I was already on the hook to identify a fix for this condition. So sort of unexpected repair number 2. (Note: Turns out that pad could have stayed on the door trim panel. Just needed to remove those two screws.)
I removed the wood trim from the panel. I suspected that some of the long trim screws they used might go into the sheetmetal door inner. And I was right. 3 of them did. Unfortunately, Midwest had over-driven one trim screw, and it was below the surface of the wood trim. When it backed out, it snagged the trim, and splintered part of the grain. Unexpected additional repair number 3.
Grabbed my panel trim tools. Make note. You will NOT need these.
These panels do NOT snap on. With the small panel removed, and the arm rest pad screws removed, pry off the small wedge of trim that hides the mounting screws for the outside mirror (one clip, no tabs), then the door trim panel lifts up, and off. Unfortunately, someone had been here before, and broken one of those tabs, and I broke two more before I figured it out. MAJOR unexpected repair(s) number 4.
But finally, I'm down to the blown door speaker. That will get replaced, and I will carefully pull back a corner of the vapor barrier, and check for rust. I see none on the outisde or underneith. But if any is starting, it will get the POR15 treatment now, before it can get a foothold. A little cleaning and fresh grease for the power window mechanism while I'm here. Then a few bits of sound deadening mat to kill vibrations. It's overkill, as the front door close with a pretty solid sound. The rear and side door REALLY need this treatment, and will get it eventually too.
That's it. I'm done breaking shit for the night. On-call phone for work is ringing. Time for a beer. Obviously, the driver side will go MUCH faster and smoother. Live and learn.
Started on the speakers today. The factory tweeter is heat staked into place, but the factory generously moulded in two additional mounting towers for replacement.
The Alpine component tweeters include these little multi-leg adapters for mounting applications like mine, or come pre-assembled into housings for surface mounting. Wanting to keep the factory grilles if I could, I disassembled the tweeters, and started studying these little adapters.
Looks like I need the smaller ones, so the larger ones not needed just snap off.
Here's the tweeter in the adapter. They are a 1/4 turn cam lock. No rattles.
They should mount up something like this.
As a kid playing with model railroads, I learned to love the Dremel. I can't imagine working with interior trim and plastics without it.
Here I'm grinding away those heat staked tabs to remove the factory tweeter.
With the factory speaker gone, you find this small little assembly aid, that helps locate the speaker. Not needed now, and in the way as the Alpine with adapter is slightly larger around.
A little swipe with the Dremel, and it's gone.
While it was nice of the factory to include those two additional towers for new attaching screws, they are just a touch too close together for the fatter Alpine. The Dremel is used to elongate the two mounting holes in the adapter that I will be using.
This is about as good as it's going to get.
Installed, screws driven home with a little JB Weld in the holes to make sure the screws don't shake loose.
The supplied wiring includes a nice little bass blocker. Well, not so little. Fortunately there's lots of room in this pod.
I hate rattles, so I wrapped these connectors and bundles of excess wire in some indoor/outdoor carpet, and stapled it into a loop to pad them.
When I removed the pod from the door, the rear tab was already broken / missing. I wanted to attempt a fix, so I took one of those larger tabs that I snapped off of the Alpine adapter, and cut it down to size. It has a nice little step on the back, which should give me more surface area for gluing it. Here it's sitting on top of the good remaining tab.
While the JB Weld sets up, it's on to the 6" round speakers.
The factory connector attaches via a tab and slot to the speaker housing. A nice detail to avoid rattles. It's one thing to see, another to get it apart. Turns out they add glue to the tab and slot, and the glue is stronger than the plastic. Sheared them right off. I'll have to wrap this in carpet to protect it.
With the factory 6" speaker removed, the remnants of the foam speaker surround are found laying in the bottom of the housing. This is why we're here.
Test fitting the Alpine, the holes line up perfectly.
These Alpine SPS 610C speakers are a very good dimensional match for the Delco factory speakers.
I'm also adding these Boom Mat baffles.
The baffle fits the speaker housing very well.
I pre-punched the screw holes through the foam.
And I added a small port to the bottom of the baffle (on the bottom, just in case any rain or car wash water trickles down that way.
As previously promised, I took advantage of having the door opened up to inspect for rust using a mirror and flashlight.
While I couldn't hold the mirror, flashlight and camera to get a photo, I'm very happy to report the door is spotless inside. A little dirt, a few dead bugs, but zero rust. At least in this door.
Since I won't be adding rust converter, time for some sound damping material. While these front doors are miles better than the rear and side doors, I figured a little extra damping couldn't hurt. It's now on the skin (outer), and on the structural inner. Door does sound better when closing.
Crutchfield sent a nice Metra wiring connector for the 6" round. No cutting, plug and play.
However, they did not send one for the tweeters. I called them, and they said Metra did not make one for the tweeter. (Note: The 6" round is female on the speaker pigtail, but the tweeter is male...same connector body). I called Metra directly to make sure, and Crutchfield was correct. So I cut part of the wiring and connector from the factory tweeter to make my own adapter. Soldered terminals, and the one that wasn't insulated received a bit of heat shrink insulation.
With this pigtail in place, the pod is ready for installation.
I'm done working outside for the day. Moving into the garage next, to work on the trim.
After the mosquitoes started to chase me inside for the night, I worked on the trim panel. More to do today.
Several issues with this trim panel. Some of my making, some not. It does have a nice, large pad of jute insulation for sound on the back of it. A nice touch I was not expecting.
This is one of the tabs that I broke taking the panel off. Again, the panel does NOT pull straight back. It lifts UP and off.
There are also some places where the wood trim is chafing the plastic panel. I don't know if this is making noise or not, but I don't like it.
An upfitter repair, or more signs someone was in here before? I don't know, but it's the only wood trim hole that was stripped in the panel, and had to have this repair. I have a better plan for this, as the lip of this anchor will not let the wood sit flush to the plastic panel.
This is the other damaged tab. Fortunately not broken completely out, and of all of them, the least visible when installed in the van. Dodged a bullet on this one.
And the other damage. Three pins that hold the back of the armrest pad flush to the panel. Again, these did NOT have to come off. The door trim panel can be removed with the pad still attached (less the two screws that drive vertically into the arm rest support on the door frame). These are very thin and flimsy. The driver side is already broken, and I haven't touched it yet. Not some of GM's best design work. I "think" I have a repair for this. We'll find out.
Now that we've inventoried the damage, let's see what we can do to fix some of it. I plan to bond the tabs with a plastic adhesive, then reinforce them with a coat of JB weld.
While setting the panel up to work on it, I found this plastic weld was broken. Bonds the pocket to the trim panel. This will get a coat of plastic adhesive as well.
Tabs primed and bonded. When these were done and had set up for an hour, I could lift the panel by one previously broken tab. Seems to have worked.
While working on those tabs, I noticed the factory had moulded a lip into the back side of the trim panel, around the edge of the speaker. As my new Alpine speaker sits a little further out than the Delco piece (thanks to the Boom Mat baffle, which is much thicker than the factory speaker gasket), I was concerned that this lip would press against the foam speaker surround, especially if panel and speaker alignment were not PERFECT.
I decided that lip had to go. Once again, I turned to my friend the Dremel (I swear I'm not sponsored by them).
Threat removed. Mostly.
I don't want that rough edge near my speaker either, so i picked up this roll of very soft foam to go around the edge.
While it looks OK for the moment, I have my doubts it will stay. While the adhesive feels sticky, it's just not very strong. With just a touch of the lip left for it to stick to, I don't think it will stay. I'll probably end up moving this to the edge of the speaker itself.
Wasn't quite as productive yesterday. 23rd wedding anniv., and we took the Trans Am out for an afternoon cruise, but I did get a little bit of work done in the morning. Hope to get a few more hours in this afternoon, and maybe even late this evening.
Inspecting the panel again, it was a touch dirty, so it got a thorough cleaning with Simple Green. While doing that, I noticed more of those heat staked (almost spot-weld like) spots that hold the pocket to the panel were broken loose.
So those all got re-glued, and a few more spots for good measure.
Started working on that armrest pad too. The two outside pin locations can be fixed with a stainless screw with stainless fender washer from the backside of the panel, I think.
The center pin backs up to the hand-hold portion of the pad, so a sheetmetal screw will not work there. Since I'm working with the panel off, I'm going to try a stainless buttonhead screw with washer and nylock nut. Will start drilling and mocking this up this afternoon.
I want to use the Takin' It To The Street avatar under my user name for a van name, but I'm starting to think plain old Elmer might be a better name, based on the amount of adhesives I'm using.
Another fix that needed cure time, that I could start and walk away from, was that splintered wood trim. Its the only one that did this, but something I will have to watch out for in the future when removing other wood pieces.
Just had time to tackle the arm rest pad when I got home. I was anxious to try this repair, because the driver door pad is also broken, so I knew I had work to do over there as well.
Pre-drilled all three holes in the locations of the original pins. Here the center fastener, a stainless button-head screw with stainless washer, is pressed in from the passenger side of the pad. This is the only part of the repair that will be visible.
And here it is with the pad sitting flush. I'm OK with it. I'd rather nothing showed, but the mat stainless finish, and the smooth button head make it pretty unobtrusive. If you didn't know it shouldn't be there, you might not think anything of it.
And the length is perfect. Not too much sticking out the back, but enough for a large stainless washer, and a stainless nylok nut. Should not create any interference with the door panel inner.
Washer and nut installed in the center, stainless wood / sheet-metal screws with large stainless washers on the two ends. All snugged up, this is a VERY solid repair. I'm happy!
A quick comparison of the depth of that center screw Vs. the stock pin. Maybe just a hair longer, but essentially the same. Dad would have liked this repair. Clean, simple, and very strong. He was in his 80s toward the end, and not able to take on these kinds of repairs any longer.
Win - The light bulbs for the rear fan switch showed up.
All set up and ready to de-solder.
Out with the old...
I wasn't going to solder in the new bulbs without testing them. Here, touched with a self-powered test light, she glows. This is also the first time I put my fingers on one of these bulbs, and realized they are quite a bit bigger than the old ones coming out.
Cleaned out the holes in the PC board for the new bulbs.
New bulbs soldered in. I'm no electronics guy...was pretty pleased that I was able to remove the old, clean the board, and soldered in the new without destroying anything.
Unfortunately, those new bulbs are REALLY big. So big, in fact, that I can't put the switch back together.
Reheating one leg of each bulb, I laid them over on their sides. Better, but still too big.
So I ended up removing both bulbs, and running without lights. It was my daughters H.S. graduation last night, and I used the van for the family and in-laws. Knew I'd need the rear blower.
I'll find yet more bulbs to order, and try again. Noticed last night the back lighting for the driver door power window switch is burned out. So there's more bulb joy ahead! This is changing a light bulb guy...a light bulb!
The good news was the dash trim and door panel all went back together well. No new issues, and old ones solved.
One last difficulty, that I mentioned in a previous thread, the new radio has some metal ears as part of the radio housing that are NOT bolted on. And in my application, they hit the pad. Made of pretty rigid metal, they were not easy to bend back. But once bent backwards, they did not interfere with anything else. Everything else about the radio is good...and the black face is not noticeable at all when installed. I think it's a keeper.
They were right. I ordered my 255/70/15s today....General Grabber HTS60s. Should be here Monday. Stopping on the way home tonight to get some chrome valve stems and caps.
The van had puked it's last A/C recharge, and I could not find anything obvious. But the black light told the tale. Dry EVERYWHERE (good news with 20 year or lines and seals everywhere front to back), except the compressor itself. It was a glowing green ball of dye. New compressor, and life is good (and chilly!).
Working with a friend to get a Tech II on the van today and change the profile back. The van has a replacement PCM, and the previous shop (prior to my purchase) lazily (IMO) left the previous vans profile in it, including I suspect improper axle ratio info. I believe a re-flash with the right profile will restore the speedo to proper operation.
Then this weekend we'll dig back into that driver door panel, and maybe add an amp, maybe even a sub if time allows. Although those are secondary to more important pre-roadtrip chores...sort of....tunes are awful important!
On to the driver's door today. Didn't break anything this time, but there was plenty of other damage.
It immediately became clear that like the passenger side, someone had been in here before. The first thing I saw was this cracked hot glue repair. More an attempt to fix rattles I think.
It also became obvious this armrest pad was in much worse condition underneath.
At least a few of Humpty Dumpty's pieces are large enough to help in the repair.
As for the large panel, it needed some of the same repairs as the passenger door...a good cleaning, and a good glue repair for the broken plastic spot welds on the big pocket. However, these front door panels are NOISY! I can't get the videos to load, but you would not believe how much noise those small plastic pockets make when the panel flexes. It's crazy. Time to peel back the jute and see what we can do.
When I had to rebuild the plastic radio pod for my T/A, I padded areas that rubbed together with a very thin cloth. I'm going to use the same trick here.
Ready to go back into the panel.
Installed, with a little ribbon of dum dum for good measure.
You'll have to take my word for it since the video won't load....but this made a HUGE difference. Glue the jute back down, the the big panel is done.
Meanwhile, back on the bench...stainless washers are JB Welded into the bottom of the pad, to reinforce the areas of shattered plastic around the screw holes.
Also some weld for the cracked plastic frame.
And lots of epoxy to strengthen the bottom, and the broken plastic pieces.
The rest is pretty much the same as the other door. Tweeter installed, soldered pigtail, carpet around crossover and wiring, old blown driver removed, trimmed speaker opening on panel, previous hot glue repair re-melted, etc. Pad back on the door panel with two stainless sheet metal screws and one small machine screw.
Tomorrow I'll add the sound deadening to the door inner, install the new Alpine driver with Boom Mat baffle, and reassemble the door.
I used that same JB Weld, washer fix on our truck's center door striker covers around 5 years ago, and it's been so rock solid that I forgot about until I just saw your post.
Glad to hear it's a repair that's held up for you Rusty. I hope this one does as well, but I'm going to check into ordering some new ones, or finding some good used ones (good luck to me with that), just in case.
No work on her today. Long day at work, and just now getting done with other chores, and it's pouring rain out.
Finally got a break on work, weather, fife, and was able to spend a few hours on the van last night. As all the sub-assemblies were ready to go, things went very smoothly.
Sound deadening pads (4) installed inside the door, water shield back in place.
Boom Mat baffle installed to the speaker pod, Alpine speaker installed, electrical connector wrapped in carpet.
Foam lip seal added to edge of speaker.
And the driver door is all back together. Everything works, far fewer squeaks and rattles.
The door pull is rock solid. And that tiny little smooth stainless screw head is all that there is to tell you anything was done.
After having my new General Grabbers for a week or more, I finally got around to scrubbing the soap off of them. Chrome stems, stick on weights all on the back. A little too late to save the lip from weight corrosion, but why do more damage? I hope these wheels are a year or so stop gap. I still want those Hurst wheels I posted before.
My daughters H.S. graduation was a few weeks back. It was held at an outdoor amphitheater, and it was COLD. The theater was selling real Mexican blankets (made in Mexico and not China), and when one option was a blue/white/silver grey one, well, that just had to be a sign, right?
I'm just starting to emerge from Photobucket hell. Have three free accounts-worth of photos moved to Flickr (which I love...should have moved year ago). Still learning the tool, but as I get the hang of it, I'll be going in and replacing the missing photos in this thread.
So if you see this thread keep coming back up as if it's been updated, but there are no new posts, that's me going in and fixing photo links.
Thanks to Dave (ASTRO) for unlocking the thread so that I can update it, as the ability to edit posts goes away after a time.
When I get caught up, I do have a few new photos to share, and stories to tell about our first adventure in our Express van.
Yes, the wife has already put it to good use. She's always cold. There was a camo fleece one that my in-laws bought at the same event, and they gave it to us after to keep in the van as well. So while my wife is hiding from the air conditioning under the Mexican blanket, my daughter is hiding under the fleece one. At the same time, I'm very comfortable, thank you.
Oh yes, getting ready for vacation. When I got home, that's when I found all hell had broken loose courtesy of our friends at Photobucket.
Vacation. Headed to Florida and Walt Disney World for fun, sun, and to visit my son who is there for a work internship. Had the day before we left off, to put the finishing touches on the van, cleaning, rechecking, and packing.
The day of our departure was beautiful and sunny. Shortly after dawn, I walked out to the van to see this balloon up for a sunrise ride. A good omen, I felt.
Cleaned packed, and ready for the road.
One last odometer photo in the 70k range. We'll be in the 80k range before we get back.
Saw some nice vans on the road, but didn't have a chance to photograph most of them. I did spot this rust free looking 3rd gen., still working hard for it's owner. Examples of 3rd gens this clean have all but disappeared up here in Michigan.
Though I love coffee, and drank a lot of it on the road to keep me sharp, I did not stop at Jittery Joe's.
Our first day on the roads was good. I usually cruise along about 75 - 77. Don't need to be the fastest thing on the road, but want to run with traffic. GPS, sound system, radar detector, 12V cooler...all working well. The van itself running great. The A/C ice cold. A previous trip to Florida in this van years ago produced a best of 17mpg on the road, at I would guess close to the same speed. 3 folks, and gear. The further I drove, the speed crept up to 80mph, and the gas mileage dropped. Aero drag you know. And it dropped further in the mountains, understandably.
While we usually plan hotel stays for the night, this time we did not. Our first stop was McDonough GA. While checking out a couple of exits and the services available, I stumbled across the Summit Racing retail store. Whoa! I just HAD TO stop for a quick visit. Just a quick walk through, but it was fun. I wanted to buy something for the van as a souvenir, but couldn't think of anything quickly, and had to do without.
Day two of our drive to went well. Gas mileage kept dropping, even once we were back on reasonably flat ground. Weird. Last fill-up before getting off I-75 onto the Florida Turnpike was in the mid-12s. But, it's very hot, and I'm pushing pretty hard, so I didn't think too much of it.
And here's where the fun began. Made it to WDW property. Sitting at a stop light, looked down, and all my dash warning lights were on. She'd stalled. Turned everything off, cranked, started, died. Did it again. There was a car in front of me at the light, so I waited for the turn arrow, the car ahead to move out, cranked her up and slammed her into gear before she could stall. Made it another few hundred yards, and it died again. Would not restart. After 1200 some miles, we were about a mile short of our resort. The wife, who was not 100% on board with buying the van in the first place, was not pleased, but did an admirable job of biting her tongue.
Broke down. Never a good feeling when you are traveling, or in the heat and humidity of summertime Florida. I called and joined AAA, hoping to arrange a tow to a local dealer (this was on a Sunday). Would have to get a rental or something. While waiting, WDW security showed up, put cones down to direct traffic around us. Informed me she could call for a free tow to their on-site auto care facility. I had joined AAA by now, but told them I'd call back if needed. The Disney tow truck was there in about 10 minutes. I asked if we could ride with him. He had one seat, and he could not take luggage. The security officer called out resort, and their head of guest services came out in a WDW Equinox, took my beet red wife and daughter to the resort, got them some cold water and A/C while they registered.
The tow truck driver took me and the van to the hotel, and dropped me near our room, and helped me unload the truck at the curb while I waited for my wife and daughter. He then left with the van and took it to the repair facility. A few minutes later the wife showed up, and we moved into our room.
This may all be detail this crowd does not care about, but I cannot thank the folks at Walt Disney World enough for how they treated us. It's the sort of service in an emergency that you dream of, but seldom experience. If the van had broken down 5 minutes sooner, I would have been on 6-lane, wide bumper to bumper traffic I-4, in a center lane, and really, really screwed. As it was, if this HAD TO happen, it could not have happened in a better way.
The on-site auto care center got to the van first thing the next morning. I got a call as our son was driving us into the parking lot of EPCOT, 8 or 9am. I agreed to some very expensive repairs, and by 3 that afternoon, the van was ready. I left my wife and daughter to enjoy the park, while my son and I ran to the auto care center, and were back at the park in less than an hour. She's run fine ever since.
The rest of the trip was pretty uneventful. Had a great time, great weather. Found a spot under a shade tree, next to an island in the parking lot at the hotel, so the van had a nice place to sit and recuperate from her long run from Michigan. We made several local trips, and it ran flawlessly each time.
Our old friend Sponge Bob made the trip with us, and has now adopted a permanent place on the dash of the Express. He previously resided on the dash of our Chevy Venture. A McDonald's kids meal toy, he stays in place very well in that three point stance. He lived on the dash while my son learned to drive in the van. If he went sailing off the dash in a turn, you were turning too fast.
On the way home, she rolled past the 80k mile mark.
Going back past McDonough, we thought we might catch the tale of the Great American Race, but were too late.
I've been spending my time since playing with the Trans Am. But I need to get back to the van this week. She needs a trailer brake controller installed.
Thanks fo sharing your story and photos. It sucks when your van craps out on you. Especially far from home . Been there done that. I'm glad it worked out for you. Sounds like Mickey Mouse has a good crew working for him. I didn't know they had their own pit crew.
Cool story. The breakdown sucked, but you were in good hands once the security officer showed up. I've never seen customer service like what they have at Disney World. It reminds me of those vintage ads where everybody's always smiling and 100% professional. I didn't know they had their own pit crew either, but it doesn't surprise me really... they are pretty self-sufficient.
We have a Summit Racing opening here in a couple of months... I can't wait to cruise over there and check it out.
So what was the failure on the van? Did the fuel pump die?
What broke? Well, that's the $64 question. And it took a LOT more than $64 to find out.
The short answer is, we don't know exactly. Something in the ignition system. Not fuel pump. That's been done before, according to the stack of receipts Dad had kept. And it was good.
The long answer? One of the details I didn't provide in the already too long story above, was that after it died and would not re-start (crank only)....this was very hot conditions. Hot day, just off a run down the highway, idling at a light. After she sat for a 1/2 hour, and the tow driver was ready to pull her up on the flatbed, the front tires were maybe 6-8 foot away from the edge of the ramp. He asked my to try it one time, to see if I could pull it forward those few feet. And wouldn't you know the damn thing started. So something got too hot. Had a solid check engine light, so a stored code.
When the shop called me, they could see that much under the bonnet was original....20 years old. And they wanted to go to town. They offered me two options, the full boat including every maintenance item that had never been done as far as THEY knew, including a coolant flush, belt, tensioner, etc. This would have cost more than I paid for the van. Literally. And all of this things had looked up to snuff at the shop back home that I have used for 20+ years.
After I backed them away from that cliff, we focused on doing everything in the ignition system. Crank sensor, coil, cap, rotor, module, distributor, plugs, etc. This cost a few hundred less than I paid for the van. It would be easy to be cynical and say they had me, and went all out to over-repair the van. And while I was not in a position to argue, I wasn't entirely against this approach. Since it started when cooled off, how would I know for SURE we'd fixed it until the long drive back to Detroit? Did I want to risk breaking down on the side of the highway on Tennessee or Kentucky, up in the mountains? All because I wanted to second guess the guy working on it? To save a few bucks?
I did not. So I gave them carte blanche to rebuild the ignition system. Now, I'm not trying to brag, or try to show off. MANY people in the auto industry and hobby know a LOT more than I do. But I do have a couple of automotive degrees, spent some time in a Chevy dealer, and many years as a contractor to GM here in Detroit. So I have some notion of what's going on.
My guess? I think it was the coil. While crank sensors can be intermittent, or fail when hot, in my experience, they are like a light bulb. When they fail, they fail. Obviously distributor (high voltage switch in GM speak for the L30/L31 engines) itself was not the issue, nor the plugs or wires, cap or rotor. Could have been the module, but I'm thinking coil. Why? Because of that slowly degrading gas mileage on the way down. Ran, but getting ever weaker. I could be full of it too, but whatever it was, we killed that fly with a sledgehammer.
Hey thanks Dave! You went above and beyond answering my question. It doesn't sound like they troubleshot according to the diagnostic codes, but instead decided to shotgun it. It surely cost you a lot more that way, but they had you up and running the next day, and there's definitely value in that.
Enough of these pleasure cruises. Time to put the old gal to work!
I have an '88 Trans Am that I would like to take to a few shows that are farther away from home than I am comfortable with driving it. So...I placed an order on Saturday. Should be ready in a few weeks...actually, picking it up the day before I leave for a show!
Two orders from US Cargo Control have arrived. E-track was already at the trailer factory when I placed my order. That was some fast shipping. My straps arrived at the house Monday.
As I will only have a 1/2 day to get the trailer ready for the trip to the nationals, I'm trying to pre-buy everything, and be ready for an installation blitz. Yesterday was a trip to Harbor Freight for a 5000 pound winch. List $244.99, on sale for $179.99. I had a sale flier which had this for $169.99, but I was able to use the 20% coupon, and got it for $146 or so. No complaints about that. As with any trip there, I couldn't make it out without picking up a few more items...nitrile gloves (coupon), a d-ring shackle (coupon), and a spring loaded center punch for drilling those holes in my brand new trailer and tool box! (coupon). My brother and I already have a bet going on how long I will stand there with the drill in my hand before I start making those holes.
Stopped to fill up last night. Never the happiest of times when I have to feed the old gal. Guy at the pump on the other side of the island filling up a Jeep with diesel. Looks for a long time. I'm looking the van over too, thinking about all the things I need to / want to do with it, and wondering if buy yet another vehicle was such a good choice.
The guy with the Jeep finally pipes up, asking how many miles. I tell him, he says it's really clean, and looks great. Repeats this a few times. A perfectly timed compliment. I thank him, and leave realizing there's far, far more good about the van than wrong, and just enjoying the rest of my commute home.
I had noticed that after sitting, the Express cranked pretty slowly. I was perfectly willing to blame the current battery, for no good diagnostic reason, and planned on replacing it next spring.
But while playing with the engine cover storage bin, I noticed that the travel of the door when latched was barely enough to turn the light off. And if I closed it gently, it would NOT turn it off.
A small felt pad added to the interior surface of the door, to push a little harder on the switch, and problem solved.
Leaving Indy a few weeks ago, north on I69. Just cleared construction, and one truck driver figured he had not had enough of delays, shoots a small gap in the passing lane and squats next to another semi for a good 10 miles or more. Needless to say, traffic is stacked up behind this crack head for miles. There's a white Dodge Avenger behind him, then me, and a very long line of traffic.
Crack head hits a piece of tire tread in the road, a good 6 foot or more long. The tread gets air-born hits the Dodge, then clobbers me, and heads on down the line behind me, damaging god knows how many other vehicles. And how do I know crack head is a crack head deliberately blocking traffic, and not regulated to a near identical speed as the truck he's "passing"? Because as soon as he hit that, and saw in his mirrors the damage he'd caused by dawdling in the passing lane, he was Johnny-on-the-throttle, and cleared the other truck in about 5-10 seconds.
Grille, marker light lens, hood dented, fender pushed in (see the gap at the door), also pushed back into the door, and paint scuffed on hood, fender and door, including decal damage. I'm overly optimistically hoping that a painless dent guy might be able to salvage the hood and fender. While my LONG TERM plans included removing some of the worn and faded tape stripes, I'm not ready to execute that plan financially right now. So I'm hoping to salvage what I can.
I did grab cell photos of the trailer, and tractor. But...I'd have to run that through my insurance (no-fault in Michigan), and I'm using my one accident forgiveness event for my teen daughter (!). So another claim, at fault or not, might push my rates way up. So I think I'm just going to pick away at this as time and money allow.
Nothing like having the most expensive insurance in the country (Thank You Michigan) and being afraid to actually use it.
I have not. She's been working for a living since then.
I did buy a new turn signal assembly for the front grille. Much of the black scuffing rubbed off by hand. I bought a tool to try and clean the rest of it off, but ran out of time.
Towed our '88 Trans Am to the Trans Am Nationals in Dayton, OH in August. That did require a new platform hitch, ball mount, and brake controller install. So those count as upgrades in my book.
Towed the family travel trailer to the Frankenmuth Autofest in September. Drove to Southern Illinois to move my son back to the University. And she's been my daily driver. So lots of miles, but not too much time for improvements. I do have some more small plans for the near future, but they'll have to wait for spring now.
I do understand what you mean about not having enough time.. and now that Cold weather had set in Thank You Mother Nature.. it has slowed the process of upgraded for sure... YES any time you make any type of improvement over stock is an Up Grade in my book. I too have all the items to install and repair the Towing package on my van .... as well.. my van had never been used for that I have Stock wires for towing never hooked up to the Fuse Block and wires that have never had a Controller either.. so that will be a big job for me as well... I did not know that your van was a daily driver.. I dont hardly use my van just for pleasure. were as my GMC Sierra is my daily driver. after reading your thread I was hoping that nothing Major ( Tramatic ) happened in your life, that stopped your thread... thats a relief . So keep buying parts.. and storing them till spring gets here.. lol... I have been researching when and were the Van meets are at... and there will be the Big one in Indiana Friendship I believe ... have you thought about attending ?
My van is not supposed to be a daily driver. But my daily driver is out of service at the moment, so I'm having to drive it for now. Hoping that won't be the whole winter.
Yes, happy to have the new hitch equipment. It's a few more things off the list.
If I can get it cleaned up and presentable enough (by my standards) in the next year or so, I'd like to make it out to an event or two.
Hi Dave,cool Express .Can I ask you what is your RPM/80mph with 3.73 rear end? I plan little upgrade for my diff from 3.55.I'm thinking about 3.73 or 3.92 or just leave 3.55 with LSD. thanx
Thanks for the compliment. I'm very happy with the van so far, though I have a lot more work to do. I don't have a tach in the van yet (a planned upgrade). But it's not crazy at all. The OD trans knocks it right down. I tow in drive, and even then it's not bad, though I do tow a lower speeds.
Came out to take the van to work today, and she wouldn't start. Classic clicking starter solenoid. It did this to us this past winter. Took the day off to get a new starter installed. Sure does start faster now. Well worth the investment to not have to worry about it happening again at a less convenient time and place.
The ramps I built for the T/A came in very handy.
Adding these details for the next GMT600 owner who might pass this way, needing to replace the starter on their L31 Vortec 5.7L or L30 Vortec 5.0L.
This starter has a pretty nice heat shield on it from the factory.
It's held on at one end by these two E5 Torx headed screws threaded into the casting for the end of the solenoid.
The other end is held in place on the end of one of the motor housing through bolts that hold the windings/housing to the cast nose of the starter.
Had to go buy the E5...my set didn't go that small. But the real problem was the starter itself. A new starter from a local store (not national chain) looked right, and would have worked, except the heat shield would not have transferred over. The new starter was slightly redesigned, with a bigger motor housing, with the through bolts relocated to the inside of the housing, and re-clocked. That end of the shield would have no mount. Fortunately, another local store (not national chain) had an identical match to my old starter.
Is that shield really needed? You decide. Check the distance from the manifold to the solenoid. The factory even heat shields all the wiring in the area.
An oil change while I was under there, and she's ready for several towing jobs coming up.
Still driving the van daily, though it kills me to have it out this time of year. Had to order another tool to try and fix my winter beater Oldsmobile. Hopefully this Sunday afternoon I can take a look at it, and get it back on the road in the next few weeks.
I took the middle row of buckets out of the van and put a tarp on the carpet to move a Christmas Sleigh that we use as the centerpiece of a display at work. It's to raise funds for, and get folks to buy gifts for, an Adopt-A-Family at Christmas. People who've never owned a full size van will never appreciate the utility. While out, I moved 17 large gift baskets for my wife's work too.
Sadly, we also used it as a pet ambulance, to shuttle our black lab back and forth to the vet. She had many health issues, and I spent two weeks working from home (much to the disappointment of my new manager) giving her IVs, cleaning up, giving her meds and trying to get her to eat, and generally just spending time with her as much as I could. Sadly, we had to take her in to be put to sleep last Saturday. So she got one last ride in the van, which she always enjoyed.
Our deepest sympathy for the loss of your Sweet Lab. I know Ya'all had lots of fun watching her playing in the snow. Glad you are surrounded by Family. Lots of Love your way from The Herd at my feet, and in my lap as I write, looking up and telling me it's going to be Ok.
Had to go buy the E5...my set didn't go that small. But the real problem was the starter itself. A new starter from a local store (not national chain) looked right, and would have worked, except the heat shield would not have transferred over. The new starter was slightly redesigned, with a bigger motor housing, with the through bolts relocated to the inside of the housing, and re-clocked. That end of the shield would have no mount. Fortunately, another local store (not national chain) had an identical match to my old starter.
Is that shield really needed? You decide. Check the distance from the manifold to the solenoid. The factory even heat shields all the wiring in the area.
Yes that heat shield is VERY important ... I have cooked 3 starters even with the shield ... finally went to a reduction gear starter which sits a little farther away. Still has the heat shield ..They draw way less currant to turn over the motor. Watch where they run the exhaust pipe if you have it re done. It has been the solenoid that cooks.
We didn't really intend to adopt her. My boss at the time had a dachshund that passed...it was over 20 years old! She had become quite attached to it...it was always on her Christmas car, took it to Oktoberfest in Frankenmuth, MI, etc. When I told my wife, she said she had heard about a local shelter in a neighboring county that has a dozen or so dachshunds they had taken away from a hoarder. So we start browsing this shelter, and others, looking for a new pup for my boss.
Then we find the county shelter that had Belle. Two terrible pictures of her, mouth open, tongue hanging out, won't sit still, but we thought she looked cute, in a big dopey Lab sort of way. And at this time, the shelter had all the animals on a countdown clock (they don't do this anymore). They all got a certain amount of time (like 30 days), and if they weren't adopted, they were put to sleep. And she had 9 days to go.
Somewhat horrified by this tactic, we kept checking back every day (part of their goal I'm sure, and we played right into it), sure that someone would adopt her before time ran out. When she got down to 3 days, and it was a Saturday, we felt like she was out of time (shelter closed Sunday, so her final day would be Monday, which didn't seem to us like a day likely to see a lot of adoptions), We went down and saw her, and the rest is history.
I bought an aluminum car hauler for my T/A a few years ago...used it to take the car to the T/A Nationals in 2017, and a few other places since. Also handy for fetching large parts, like axles.
One of the few things I want to improve is to get a cover for the spare tire. It's mounted on a nice carrier on the side of the bed, but it leaves the spare 100% exposed to UV on both sides most of the year. I can get a vinyl cover, but I wasn't sure it would stay on going down the road, and they don't cover 100% of the back side.
I've been watching for a good deal on a stainless or aluminum band-style cover, and stumbled across this one today. It even has ribs in it that match the deck of the trailer. Needs a little cleaning up, but for $10, I couldn't pass it up. Don't think I've seen on like it before, so very happy to get it.
A couple of fiberglass discs for front and back, and the spare tire will be all protected. And I can get some nice Pontiac (or related) decals for the 'glass disc that faces out. Should clean-up and dress-up nice.
You can see some of it in the first photo of the spare tire cover above, but there's a LOT of tar and industrial fallout on this thing. It's quite a mess. I went over it before that photo was taken with some shop towels and Mean Green. It removed a LOT of dirt, but did nothing for the other deposits.
I stopped today and bought a spray can of Lifter 1 citrus Bug and Tar remover. A little leery of the citrus part...I'm used to more powerful and noxious petroleum distillates....but I have to say for this application, where I could rub at it with a green Scotchbrite pad, it worked quite well.
Here you can start to see some of those specks up close.
Cleaned on the right, yet to be done on the left.
In this photo, the Lifter 1 has really started to dissolve the tar, maybe 30-60 seconds after application. I've already gone over the first couple of rows of ribs (top) with the Scotchbrite pad.
It's never going to be a show piece, but it's looks can certainly be improved on.
Being an anodized surface, I'm not sure if I'll be able to get it much better looking than this. The hard anodized coating is cloudy to a degree, and I'm not sure if polishing will help. But we're going to find out. As soon as my right hand and fingers are talking to me again...I'm getting old!
While it's tough to do much with an anodized coating, I tried polishing an area of it with Flitz. Section on the right and middle have been done, the left side has not. It helped bring it back to more of a silver color, and less of a milky white look.
I think this is about as far as I'm going to go. Stripping the anodizing, and having it reapplied is just more money than I want to put into the old part. I may clear coat it, but that's about it. My finger tips are not looking forward to finishing this job.
Went around once with the Flitz, and was very pleased with the progress. Took a nylon panel beating hammer and straightened a bend near the latch. And looking it over thought, this one spot didn't come out well...and that lead to going over the whole thing a second time. Made a great difference, and now I AM DONE. My arm, shoulder and fingers demand it.
The centers arrived in the mail too. One for the front, one for the back.
The Express took a little trip to the repair shop last week. A new intake gasket (the 3rd in it's 9k mile lifetime...damn plastic thing), water pump, serpentine belt, fresh coolant, and a new thermostat. I had them use a 180 thermostat instead of the original 195.
Then it was off through Michigan, Indiana, Kentucky and Tennessee with empty car hauler in tow. Weight about 1700 - 1800 lbs and with little aero penalty, it got 13.5-ish MPG running about 72 - 73 mph. Van loaded with my all of my daughters college belongings (which seemed to have multiplied considerably since we dropped her off there in August of last year), and with her car on the car hauler, we headed off through Tennessee, Kentucky, and spent the night in Southern Illinois. The photo here is the Express parked in the bus parking area next to our cabin in Giant City State Park, with water tower and observation platform in the background.
The next day, through Illinois, Indiana and back to Michigan. Got about 11.5ish on that half of the trip. Van ran great, did not use or lose a drop of coolant, and I am very happy with how cool it ran. In drive, nearly flat out on some long grades holding 65 mph, the needle barely budged off it's cool reading. I'm stoked about that. Lots of reserve capacity in that cooling system (tow package with engine oil cooler and an aftermarket trans cooler on top of the factory one), which is the way I like it. Vortec heads are known to crack when overheated, and this will keep me far away from that sort of trouble.
I freakin love it when a repair goes well. So many times I go to fix one thing and either break another or find another pre-existing issue. It's nice when the repair goes as planned. Glad that temp is staying down. Super clean looking ride man.
My sons truck suffered a catastrophic engine failure, and had to be replaced by a new vehicle. Replacement secured, we hitched the van up to the aluminum car hauler again, and headed south.
Along the way, we crested the 100k mile mark, rolling right along, and running better than ever.
Once there, we had some extra time to visit with our son. This included a little light hiking through Giant City with the wife (stayed in the same park as last trip, parked in the same spot.
The trip home always includes a stop at the Blue Hat in Coldwater for coffee.
The following month, we took The Express to Cincinnati for a family gathering. Nothing better for road trips. Unfortunately, the a/c slowly stopped working on the way down. I topped off the system while I was there, and was able to get it working for the drive home, but it's clearly a large leak, as it was again going flat before we made Detroit. I did make it to a swapmeet while I was there, and picked up a few nick-nacks.
A trip to the shop for an a/c repair (corroded aluminum lines to the rear system), and just in time. The next day, we left for a short summer getaway.
Great Lakes: Superior, Huron, Michigan, we touched our toes in all 3 during this little tour of northern Michigan.
First stop, Mackinaw City, MI. Stayed in a cabin. With gear, food, bedding, cooler...no other vehicle would have got the job done, while offering leather seating and limo sized rear leg room for our passengers. Again, a fantastic vehicle. Speed limit is 75 much of the way, which means you run 80 just to keep up, and the Vortec powered Express cruised along with no problems.
Next morning, we crossed the Straights of Mackinac (different spelling, but still pronounced Mackinaw) by 30 minute launch ride to Mackinac Island. The entire trip we enjoyed cool temps and clear skies. Here, enjoying lunch on the island harbor's edge...best meal of the trip at Mary's Bistro.
Next day, across the Mackinaw Bridge...(note: not my image of the bridge...the water was not this rough when we crossed to the island the day before, though it was the night we arrived)...
...into the Upper Peninsula (U.P.) of Michigan to Sault Ste. Marie, MI. Here the Sault (Soo) Locks pass huge Great Lakes freighters from Lake Superior to the lower Great Lakes via the St. Mary's river.
But first, lunch at the West Pier Drive-In. Hey, if the van is great for traveling, why not eat inside of it too?
First time I'd had a food tray on the drivers window.
Then back to the locks. We watched several ships pass through. Here a 1000 footer (the largest the locks can pass) waits it's turn to pass through the locks.
Across the bridge at Sault Ste. Marie, MI, to Sault Ste. Marie, Canada! First time for The Express out of the country.
Then an hour or so leisurely drive to Batchawana Bay, so we could stick our toes in Lake Superior. Beautiful park, and no one there. Much of the road to it is through small (?) mountains, and winding along the shore of the lake...beautiful!
Then back into the USA, starting at mile 1 (so to speak) of I-75 at the USA/Canada border. That means that with the previously described trip to Orland, FL on I-75, The Express has driven most (but not quite all) of this great north/south interstate.
Back down through the U.P. to St. Igance, on the U.P. (north) end of the Mackinaw Bridge. Spent a night in a nice hotel in St. Ignace, with a beautiful view off the balcony. Another excellent dinner, drinks and evening out.
Next morning, we packed up, did a little shopping in St. Ignace, went to the Mystery Spot MYSTERY SPOT ?, then back across the Mackinaw Bridge for lunch in Mackinaw City at Weinerlicious. Really. You can't make that up.
Then a high speed run home. Makes you feel sorry for folks NOT traveling by van.
I'm not a native. So I was surprised at the diversity of this state...from huge sand dunes to the west, great lakes, border crossings to Canada, an upper peninsula, the bridge, light houses, snowmobiling, skiing, inland lakes everywhere, Detroit and tons of history...it's a pretty cool place to be. Proud to call it my adopted home.
Finally got all caught up. Granted i did start fresh from page one earlier this evening. Great looking van. Where did you get the retrofitted headunit? I would def like to find something like that for my Astro.
Started a new job...very excited about it. I'm actively hunting for a new daily driver, which The Express has devolved into (nothing wrong with it as a daily...I enjoy driving it, but I'm wearing it out). Hope to have something in the next few months, and have her indoors for the winter. Then I can start to address a mounting list of issues she has.
This weekend, LOF, and inspect the RF tire for possible replacement (an crazy driver chased my butt off road over a curb a year or so back, and I suspect it has a broken belt).
She's got more work to do before winter though. At least one more trip south towing, and a trip in September towing.
OutlawZ, the radio came from ebay...I "believe" it came from this seller, but don't make me swear to it.
Thanks for the info! He has a couple different options i am seriously going to consider. It will be a great way to add the ability to listen to an ipod or iphone to my Astro!
Thanks for the info! He has a couple different options i am seriously going to consider. It will be a great way to add the ability to listen to an ipod or iphone to my Astro!
You could always install an inline modulator that plugs directly into the antenna, and either put an AUX wire jack in the dash from it, or a Bluetooth adaptor. I did this on a crown vic I had that had a very basic am/fm radio and it worked awesome. I didn't want to change the head unit out, so this was the best option.
Thanks for the info! He has a couple different options i am seriously going to consider. It will be a great way to add the ability to listen to an ipod or iphone to my Astro!
You could always install an inline modulator that plugs directly into the antenna, and either put an AUX wire jack in the dash from it, or a Bluetooth adaptor. I did this on a crown vic I had that had a very basic am/fm radio and it worked awesome. I didn't want to change the head unit out, so this was the best option.
Great info as well. The other reason i want to change my head unit out is because all of the bulbs are burned out in it so it is dark all the time at night. So i figured going to a head unit like his would solve that problem and add extra capability to my van at the same time.
Really enjoyed this post Dave, epic trip with family, through some beautiful country. Thanks!
Thanks Wedgy!
Originally Posted by 1983G20Van
Love the van Dave! I know you mentioned it on TGO a while back to me.
I still use my 97 to tow around my big Jayco.
Since these pics I have swapped a full 8 lug 1-ton setup under it and a healthy 383 under the hood. I am just over 100K on it now too.
I may have...I'm old...don't recall! LOL
They do make a great tow vehicle.
Is the 383 you added to your the one from GM Performance Parts....the drop-in L31 5.7L replacement engine?
Nope this 383 I built from the ground up. Forged pistons, 6" rods, 11:1 compression, somewhat thumpy roller cam, ported 210cc runner aluminum heads, EFI Connection 24x ignition system with 5.3 coils, Fluidamper harmonic balancer, 7 qt oil pan, windage screen, aluminim timing cover, aluminum valve covers, and lots of other goodies. The only parts left from the L31 are some of the sensors lol. It has a mercruiser dual plane mpi intake, 1,200 cfm 4bbl throttle body, 4" air intake, 100mm MAF, thorley tri-ys, etc. I built it with a goal of 500 hp at 6,000 rpm.
Hi guys. Rusty Pancelode pinged me the other day to see if I was still alive and kicking, and I was happy to report that I am.
Between a new job, some other activities I volunteered for that seem to take all my time, a garage fire last February that we are very much still recovering from (I still don't have a single tool...every single one is off being cleaned by the restoration company), kids in college or moving out of state, covid, and God knows what else, I just didn't have time to stay in touch on all the forums as much as I would have liked. Here's a peak at the garage. Not a lot of direct fire damage, but a TON of smoke and water damage.
What you don't want to see when you pull in your driveway.
This photo almost doesn't look too bad...but look at all the soot on the UNDERSIDE of that center cabinet.
Partially demo'd, benches and pegboard were along that far wall.
Look how much smoke got through that pegboard.
Old license plate above the pegboard...interesting stuff this smoke and soot.
I'm sorry to say I have no good news about my van, other than it was NOT in the garage that had the fire. I still have it, it's still going, but age is taking it's toll. About the best I might get to do for it this winter is to get it in out of the snow. But even that is questionable, sadly.
I'll try to do a better job of staying in touch. And thanks to Rusty for reaching out.
I hear you Brother. The last 2 years have been a challenge. You still have your home and it sounds like your van is still kick n' . I wish you well and hope you can breath life into your van.
After the fire, building materials in general started to disappear from the shelves, or get very expensive. 6 weeks waits for man doors, drywall prices through the roof, and the restoration company struggling to get good contractors, who show when they say they will, etc. So that caused some delay.
Not originally budgeted for time-wise was a demo contractor who was suppose dot take out JUST the ceiling drywall and insulation. Instead, they totally gutted the place. Tore out 100% of drywall and insulation on the wall adjoining the house (the exterior walls had none), tore out 16' of workbench a buddy and I built 30+ years ago, 24' of pegboard, 4 wood shelves, 16' of wire rack, etc. All of that had to be replaced by the restoration company. The good is that I get all new drywall, and paid for insulation in the exterior walls, and a second layer in the attic. With a new man door and overhead door, it should be a LOT warmer in there in the winter. And with a brown man door, brown overhead door, and 24' or brown pegboard replaced with white man door, overhead door and pegboard, plus the conversion from florescent lights to LED, it's VERY bright in there...all big improvements. So while it has taken 30-45 days longer to get the structure repaired compared to what I had guesstimated, I'm going to be happy with the end result.
The hardest part has been have NO tools. They took every single one away to be cleaned. I actually bought a cheap $45 tool kit from Jegs just to have some basic tools around.
The "ghost" license plate is really odd, because there was a line of license plates along that wall, and that's the only one that did that. Very strange. But smoke is strange. The way it flowed around the garage, one thing heavily covered in soot, one next to it not, and places it got into....just crazy.
I would have saved it, except when the demo crew showed up to pull the drywall off the ceiling, they kept going and did the whole damn place! So it's gone, except for that photo.