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by SDMickey - April 23rd 2024 10:46 pm
1994 GMC G3500
by SDMickey - April 23rd 2024 10:43 pm
70’s Dodge bits and bobs needed
by SDMickey - April 23rd 2024 10:40 pm
1987 G20 Gypsy
by 1983 G20 Van - April 23rd 2024 8:59 pm
Sunroof removal / Fiberglass repair
by amx - April 23rd 2024 7:48 pm
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Re: 1987 G20 Gypsy
1983 G20 Van #811316 February 27th 2024 11:30 pm
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Nice touch. chevy

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Re: 1987 G20 Gypsy
1983 G20 Van #811324 February 29th 2024 3:56 am
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G Van Man
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Just some more misc stuff. Adding a list of A/C supplies ordered, in addition to the Four Seasons 12034 manifold for the HT6 style compressor, I ordered the hoses and fittings to connect everything and an inexpensive hydraulic operated a/c hose beadlock crimper to crimp it all up. Once the ac is plumbed and leak checked, I can re-install the grille and headlight bezels, hopefully for the last time for a while.

The A/C box is re-installed with plenty of dumdum goop. I could tell it was leaking rain water into the van and I loaded it up to try to make sure it would stay leak free for years. I felt around the box with the blower fan on high speed and made sure it was all completely sealed up save for the small condesate drain hole. The dash vents are blowing strong, but I can tell that the duct work needs to be resealed when I pull the dash in the future for reworking the radio, speakers and re-wiring the conversion add on stuff. The interior is basically gutted and I am going to start over almost entirely on it before it is said and done.

I had to cut the front most section of the headliner apart to remove the TV that was literally hanging from the dry rotted fabric ready to swing down on the wiring and conk someone in the skull. The conversion add on wiring is a complete rats nest. Everything was wired with either trailer splices, crimp connectors or even house wire nuts. The indirect lighting is about a dozen hot running 168 bulbs. All will be changed up with the interior refresh. I will re-wire the back end from scratch and atart over with that fire hazard looking for a time and place to short out looking garbage. It was a good thing that wiring was disconnected when I first discovered a 10awg wire, pulled through a hole in the firewall without a grommet, attached to the power wire feeding the high blower relay. Yep that is how they powered the interior despite the fuse block having multiple un-used accessory fuses and accessory connection terminals made for doing exactly that.

The way the headlining was done and the roof insulated was a complete and udder joke as well. When I cut the front section, loads of disentigrating foam poured down all over me and some managed to find its way into my eyes and nose. Definitely going to have to wear a quality dust mask and goggles or safety glasses when I tear into the rest. The existing headliner is saggy and loose because they did not use any form of a backing material, literally stretched the material between narrow boards they attached to the metal roof structure, threw a piece of foam above it and let it ride. It is actually crazy to think it has supported that 20 lb TV and wood TV enclosure without tearing for several years that I know of. I will be insulating the roof more adequately, rivit nutting the support wood to the sheet metal in place if the self tapping screws, and building a proper headliner with an actual backing material to help keep it rigidly in place. I backed it out of the shop today testing some other stuff and the heater started blowing hot air fairly quickly, definitely good enough to cook the front seat occupants out of the van fairly quickly. With the 180F thermostat gets almost too hot from the upper dash vents to comfortably hold your hand in front of the vents for long.

All exterior lighting is working save for the daytime running LEDs and and turn signal LEDs in the the headlights I have not wired in yet. On this 87, the turn signal wires that needed the load resistors added to them ended up being light and dark blue. Ground for the resistors I connected to the body ground in front of the battery where the negative cable and LH lighting also grounds.

Moving right along. Before I get to test drive it, going to have to loosen the upper control arm shaft mounting nuts and shim them out a bit even though I put each stack of existing shims back where they were. With the new upper control arms, the camber is way off, top of the wheel is cambered in on both sides. Also need to correct the toe a bit more, it is currently a bit pigeon toed that I can see just by looking at it with the steering wheel straight ahead. Few more small things to do before I can take it on a proper test drive, but it is coming up soon after my Colorado vacation week.


[Linked Image][Linked Image][Linked Image][Linked Image][Linked Image][Linked Image][Linked Image][Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Last edited by 1983 G20 Van; February 29th 2024 4:06 am.

1983 G20 Conversion Van, 350 TPI, Reed Hydraulic Roller cam, Ported 906 Vortec, Edelbrock 3817 TPI-Vortec Base, Doug Thorley Tri-Ys, Dual 2 1/2" exhaust, Speed Density 7730 ECM tuned by ME, 700r4 by ME, Stock 1,600 rpm converter, Rebuilt Stock 10 bolt with posi by ME, 3.08 gears, 358 RWHP @ 5,200, 384 RWTQ @ 3,400, 14.66 @ 95.43 w 2.28s 60'
Re: 1987 G20 Gypsy
1983 G20 Van #811325 February 29th 2024 4:15 am
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Just have to shake my head that the conversion stuff was wired to the blower wiring underhood. Literally an un-used 30a power circuit and a 25a rear hvac blower circuit not in use already inside of the van and it is fused. The rear hvac fuse is even on a keyed ignition circuit. If anybody is going to add accessories to your van that reads this, please do it right, do not burn down your van by hacking it up. All of those pins above the fuses are labeled, some fused (some un-fused) and powered accordingly. Want to put aftermarket gauges with lights, connect the lighting power to lps. Want to put a cell phone USB charger in it, connect it to accessory so it works on the key without running down your battery. Etc, Etc.. American Autowire even has an inexpensive kit for it. There is also a nice ground bus bar right next to the fuse box so you are not grounding things with a sheet metal screw and eyelet. Thanks for reading my "Ted talk" moment.

https://americanautowire.com/products/ato-fuse-box-power-tap-set-500429

[Linked Image]

Last edited by 1983 G20 Van; February 29th 2024 4:28 am.

1983 G20 Conversion Van, 350 TPI, Reed Hydraulic Roller cam, Ported 906 Vortec, Edelbrock 3817 TPI-Vortec Base, Doug Thorley Tri-Ys, Dual 2 1/2" exhaust, Speed Density 7730 ECM tuned by ME, 700r4 by ME, Stock 1,600 rpm converter, Rebuilt Stock 10 bolt with posi by ME, 3.08 gears, 358 RWHP @ 5,200, 384 RWTQ @ 3,400, 14.66 @ 95.43 w 2.28s 60'
Re: 1987 G20 Gypsy
1983 G20 Van #811340 March 01st 2024 2:22 am
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Such great documentation on your build chevy

1 member likes this: 1983 G20 Van
Re: 1987 G20 Gypsy
SDMickey #811351 March 01st 2024 4:47 am
Joined: Apr 2007
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Originally Posted by SDMickey
Such great documentation on your build chevy

As much documentation as I have done, probably should not get too far into this 350 long block build but I will. I should probably leave it at suffice to say it is probably the poster child for how not to build a small block Chevy, lol. However I will expand on that a bit. I had a pile of used parts and wanted to know just what I could get away with building a Chevy V8. Lets just say it is not as bad as many remans I have seen, but it is a complete and total mismatch of parts. Also has some stuff done that some would feel sketchy at best.

The block was a Goodwrench L31 pulled at ~120K miles with cracked heads and an oil pan full of coolant and oil mix. The crank had some wear on it and there was bearing material from the rod bearings in the pan. I blew the engine completely apart, cleaned it all up. I probably should of pulled cam bearings, I did not. I put a L30 marine crank from a freeze cracked engine in it after emory clothing some very light surface rust off the journals.

I matched the home polished L30 marine crank with a set of LT1 pistons and powdered metal rods from 2 different LT1s I had previously torn down. I used the rods and pistons that matched in weight closest to the L30 rods and pistons from that cracked block boat engine. The 8 LT1 pistons and rods I ended up using were the ones in the best condition, having the least wear and in the middle weight wise of the heaviest and lightest L30 pistons and rods that had been on the crank pins of that crank. Measured both weights with the rings installed.

I had a set of upper and lower compression rings that matched the LT1 pistons ring dimensions and the 4.00 bore size. IIRC they were actually part of a Mahle 87-92 Ford 302 HO ring set that a buddy just gave me a few years back thinking it was a SBC ring set when I bought a set of new 6.0" SBC H-beam rods and a few other small block parts dirt cheap from him when he decided he was only going to build big blocks. As such the oil control rings did not match, I cleaned and re-used the used LT1 rings rather than buying the $120 metric LT1 ring set.

The cylinder walls were in such good shape, I never even put a hone to them. I felt disturbing the factory crosshatch in the bores as well as increasing the piston to bore clearence would be a step backwards taking material off the bores. The cylinder heads and block face were not resurfaced, but I still used extremely thin Felpro rubber embossed 0.016" compressed steel shim head gaskets to help bump the compression and get a more ideal quench distance.

The oil pump was a cleaned and re-used big block pump with a matching pickup for a small block depth pan. The timing set is a 120K mile single roller from that engine that looked new and was not sloppy at all. When I degreed the cam, the camshaft immediately changed direction in response to moving the crank the opposite direction.

When I set these heads up, I intended to use them on the 97 and run with the a 7395' Marine aka Ramjet/HT383 cam and 1.6 rockers. As such, I skipped adding the more fragile 0.050" offset locks o compensate for the difference in installed height of the LS6 valve springs. The LS6 springs are thus at an installed height of 1.74" vs 1.80" of a LS. They are rated 0.550" at the 1.80" installed height, which means they are actually rated to 0.490" at their current installed height. The 7395 cam and 1.6 rocker combination skates under at 0.481" lift on the exhaust side and the 15-20 lbs or so of added seat pressure to me was not a big deal with such a small cam and the heavier SBC valves and valvetrain. The 6492 cam I ended up using actually has 0.496" exhaust lift with the 1.6 rocker, thus the springs are actually running 0.006" lift over their rated lift spec. Then again GMPP states 0.550 and the LS6 cam has a bit more lift than that (0.554") as do most of the aftermarket LS grinds calling for those springs, very highly doubt it is a real issue at all.

The GM roller lifters are actually out of a couple different engines, I picked the ones that had the smoothest rollers and least wear on the bodies. Took each one apart, one at a time, cleaned them, cleaned the internals and put them back together. When I put them in the engine, I matched the largest OD lifters to the lifter bores that had the largest ID and continued down the line until eventually the smallest OD lifters were in the smallest ID lifter bores.

Using all the spare and used parts laying around, excluding the Proflow 4 setup and exhaudt manifolds, I do not have $500 in the whole long block including the $100 core charge, new Felpro head gaskets, new head bolts, new 1-piece oil pan gasket, Summit bargain cave Holley L31 aluminum timing cover, $105 GM 6492' roller cam. That is even counting the LS6 springs and Comp 787 retainers I purchased close to a decade ago that I had previously set those heads up with. Except the head gaskets and oil pan gaskets, every other gasket or seal in that engine was from a box of new gaskets I have leftover from 20 years of working on small blocks and GM engines. The heads themself are Chinese thick cast Speedmaster Vortecs that came on a Tahoe I bought with a rod knocking bottom end and put a different used engine into. I ended up buying a $120 reman AD244 alternator from Oreilly, but the rest of the accessories are all used straight out of the spare parts stash. I did go ahead and also invest in a new plastic fan blade and a new fan clutch because of the nature of re-using unknown parts there possibly allowing fans to blow apart and take out things.

It honestly though, blows my mind how well the thing runs, how consistent and even the compression is cylinder to cylinder, how smooth the engine idles and revs and how the rings have already seated well enough, that with the fixed orifice style LS PCV "valve" the crankcase vent tube builds vacuum nearly instantly from that tiny 0.080" or so hole in it. It has virtually no blowby at all and I bet the rings seat even better with some miles put on it.

Last edited by 1983 G20 Van; March 01st 2024 5:16 pm.

1983 G20 Conversion Van, 350 TPI, Reed Hydraulic Roller cam, Ported 906 Vortec, Edelbrock 3817 TPI-Vortec Base, Doug Thorley Tri-Ys, Dual 2 1/2" exhaust, Speed Density 7730 ECM tuned by ME, 700r4 by ME, Stock 1,600 rpm converter, Rebuilt Stock 10 bolt with posi by ME, 3.08 gears, 358 RWHP @ 5,200, 384 RWTQ @ 3,400, 14.66 @ 95.43 w 2.28s 60'
Re: 1987 G20 Gypsy
1983 G20 Van #811373 March 01st 2024 6:29 pm
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G Van Man
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Tried out the A/C crimp set today, even though I am 100 miles from the van. Crimpers were here and hose materials arrived earlier, so I had to test them out.

[Linked Image][Linked Image]

Last edited by 1983 G20 Van; March 01st 2024 6:32 pm.

1983 G20 Conversion Van, 350 TPI, Reed Hydraulic Roller cam, Ported 906 Vortec, Edelbrock 3817 TPI-Vortec Base, Doug Thorley Tri-Ys, Dual 2 1/2" exhaust, Speed Density 7730 ECM tuned by ME, 700r4 by ME, Stock 1,600 rpm converter, Rebuilt Stock 10 bolt with posi by ME, 3.08 gears, 358 RWHP @ 5,200, 384 RWTQ @ 3,400, 14.66 @ 95.43 w 2.28s 60'
1 member likes this: frscke1
Re: 1987 G20 Gypsy
1983 G20 Van #811401 March 02nd 2024 1:10 pm
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old hand
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That is a heckuva line crimper.

Re: 1987 G20 Gypsy
MufflerMan Mike #811590 March 07th 2024 6:24 pm
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G Van Man
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Originally Posted by MufflerMan Mike
That is a heckuva line crimper.
Definitely seems to work well too. For $115 to my door, cannot complain. Almost an OE quality crimp.


1983 G20 Conversion Van, 350 TPI, Reed Hydraulic Roller cam, Ported 906 Vortec, Edelbrock 3817 TPI-Vortec Base, Doug Thorley Tri-Ys, Dual 2 1/2" exhaust, Speed Density 7730 ECM tuned by ME, 700r4 by ME, Stock 1,600 rpm converter, Rebuilt Stock 10 bolt with posi by ME, 3.08 gears, 358 RWHP @ 5,200, 384 RWTQ @ 3,400, 14.66 @ 95.43 w 2.28s 60'
1 member likes this: frscke1
Re: 1987 G20 Gypsy
1983 G20 Van #811591 March 07th 2024 6:31 pm
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 291
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G Van Man
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Been in Colorado since Sunday. Glad I do not live here though.

Climbed the mountains from Denver to Pagosa Springs past the Wolf Creek Ski resort on 160. The last pass took me from a little over 9,000 ft to 10,850 ft at the summit. Then like 8 miles of near 7% downgrade into Pagosa Springs. My poor 2011 Pathfinder was feeling the elevation sickness. I was not having to floor it, but it was definitely running up in the RPM a bit to make it up the grades and climbing at lower rpm was making the engine run warmer than usual despite it being like 30F up in the mountains. Had to downshift to 2nd gear in some of the 35-45 mph zoned areas to help keep it cooler. Nearly 300 hp V6 was probably making 200 hp near the summit and losing more because the fan clutch kept fully engaging.

Getting a good run at the climb into Fairplay when I was still in a 65 mph zone. Fairplay is just shy of 10K. Glad I was not in the 87 on this trip, I feel like the 3spd auto would have been a bit more limiting.

Doing anything at this elevation for someone that lives nearer sea level makes you feel like you ran a marathon just getting out to pump gas and run inside of a gas station.


https://youtube.com/shorts/czqQOEGti2s?si=3rkYRaTFZrlyzzEd

Last edited by 1983 G20 Van; March 07th 2024 6:41 pm.

1983 G20 Conversion Van, 350 TPI, Reed Hydraulic Roller cam, Ported 906 Vortec, Edelbrock 3817 TPI-Vortec Base, Doug Thorley Tri-Ys, Dual 2 1/2" exhaust, Speed Density 7730 ECM tuned by ME, 700r4 by ME, Stock 1,600 rpm converter, Rebuilt Stock 10 bolt with posi by ME, 3.08 gears, 358 RWHP @ 5,200, 384 RWTQ @ 3,400, 14.66 @ 95.43 w 2.28s 60'
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