I used a grinder with a twisted wire cup brush to get the surface rust and removable paint off. I would be careful to not overdo it because I did get some slight warping in places which might have been caused by overheating from the grinder. If I had to do it again/if I was worried about that I probably would get the surface conditioning tool from harbor freight or eastman instead of the grinder, but honestly the warping was really minimal and might have been caused by people walking on the roof for the last 30 years.
For coating it I thinned out some white rustoleum primer with mineral spirits and used a foam roller brush and applied 3 coats, lightly wet sanding in between. Finished with similarly thinned out white rustoleum enamel rolled on and I think I did 4 or 5 coats? I got a little greedy on the 2nd to last coat and thinned it out too much and ended up getting some bubbles that I had to sand down more than I wanted to, but it came out surprisingly well.
Seems like you're going for a more heavy duty finish, but I'll try and post some before and after shots
Arianrhod:2003 Chevy Astro Black Magic: 1985 Dodge B-250 Serenity:1985 Chevy G-20 The Outcast:1983 Ford club wagon Luna 1974 VW bay window transporter Freedom:1990 Ford E-150(parts van) Outcast Vanners van club Support your local 2%
I bought the hytek powder to turn my own paint into the alphaomega superduper insulating paint some 12 years ago
All it did was make my paint( rustoleum marine 'topside' yacht enamel) into 120 grit sandpaper. I tried all sorts of different ratios and amounts of thinner and application methods, and all of em made me hate and regret my purchase, and fill me with a rage that 12 years has only attenuated slightly.
I could imagine if somehow all the vacuum filled bubbles could actually form a uniform layer with no gaps, it would insulate enough to make a slight difference. In reality there is no measurable difference, other than a non slip impossible to clean surface that loves to trap acidic or perhaps basic dust and freeway fallout and degrade the paint itself faster than otherwise.
I truly regret the purchase, its employment, and the results, even after many light sandings and repaintings, its still rough, and difficult to get even a 50 foot job from.
I preferred other methods too, when i wanted a no slip surface too.
Marketing wins again. Reality only proves that once again, ignorance is bliss, and the Placebo effect is very real.
Take Heart! Iron Man. Your 1989 B250 is a Role Model. Y'all had some epic Tasty Waves there! Swami's dreaming.
All I know is I like my fibreglass caps on both my B vans.
The two tone Chevy, dark and light blue metallic, needs paint. Texas is brutal on paint. I thought about a white roof. And insulation over my head behind the paneling overhead. The drivers seat in the B vans is much cooler overhead.
I would definetly go white on the roof, but I'd start higher up off of the drip rails and windshield, like 6 inches or so, to have a blue perimeter. So you would see the dark blue on the roof from a standing height, and not the stealth white roof! Gday!
BBC Blue 1990 Chevy G30 L19 7.4 EXT Church Van, maternity division
DogVan 1988 Dodge B250 LA series 318 Wedge 5.2 TBI A500
Cabin Cruiser '94 Dodge B350 www.xplorermotorhome.com/ Xplorer MH model 230 230 hp LA series 360 Wedge MPI 5.9 A518 OD auto
Great results! We'll start the body works on my friend's new van after installing the brake pads and tires from 4Wheelonline this weekend. We'll deal with rust first.