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1985 dodge b150, strange series of events
#787603 January 20th 2022 9:04 pm
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 42
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318cu manual trans, Holley 2280 rebuilt, rebuilt distributor, many many new parts, Holley electric fuel pump, aftermarket voltage regulator set at 13.5 or so? Is this to high? 13.5 volts going straight to coil and HEI?

I've had a problem with this van bogging out at
highway speed going uphill under load.

I put the GM HEI conversion on this vehicle. I seem to have burned through a few coils now. And I've tried different brands for the ignition unit itself. However, that's not the problem I'm dealing with now. I don't think.

Today the bogging problem that usually only occurs at highway speed started to happen while driving City speeds. Eventually the van continuously bogged out every time the accelerator was pushed. Then it would not start.

Before the van stopped starting - - the brake pedal got very stiff and hard to push. Eventually, I was able to start the van a few times and only idle, any fuel application and the van would die again. The brake pedal has remained difficult to press down even after the van has not started. The engine actually backfire a few times when I was reluctantly able to start and idle it a few times.

I detached the brake booster vacuum line and blocked it off at the carb.

For some reason I feel like this is a fuel delivery problem or maybe a vacuum problem inside the brake booster leak. But then why not healthy running engine after blocking off the brake booster?

Sorry if I missed anything. Thank you guys!!

Re: 1985 dodge b150, strange series of events
Vanube #787613 January 21st 2022 1:54 am
Joined: Jul 2020
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I'll throw in a suggestion, before the clever people arrive, that you have got a big vacuum leak somewhere.


1988 B250 Conversion Van
https://i.imgur.com/uQPPuqo.jpg
Re: 1985 dodge b150, strange series of events
Vanube #788742 February 24th 2022 7:00 pm
Joined: Mar 2007
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You generally don't want 12 volts applied directly to a spark coil except for a very short time during startup, unless it's specifically designed for it. The standard design is that when the ignition switch is in the start position, a set of contacts on the start relay bypasses a big ceramic resistor which is inline with the coil. That's when 12 volts is applied to the spark coil, to make ignition easier. When the ignition switch is released and returns to the run position, the resistor bypass is switched back out, leaving the resistor to reduce the voltage to the spark coil to approximately 6 volts. Running a coil at 12 volts which wasn't designed for it results in massive overheating, especially at higher speeds, and an eventual breakdown of the internal insulation, leading to arcing, short circuits and open coils.

Since you've got a manual transmission, at least the typical issues with throttle kick down adjustment on the transmission can be excluded.

Your brake symptoms are odd. It takes an epic vacuum. leak to affect brakes.

Do you have your distributors vacuum advance connected to the correct vacuum source? Their hose goes on the carburetor, not the manifold on these vans.

Do you still have the evaporative canister(s) under the passenger side? Those emissions rated hoses rot and develop massive leaks. The internal control valve has a diaphragm which can rupture too, especially after backfires, creating a large vacuum leak which is totally hidden unless you put a handheld vacuum pump on it to test it.

When it bogs down, try loosening the fuel cap and listen for a whoosh of air or an improvement of symptoms. At these van's age, the vents inside the fuel caps can deteriorate and plug up, allowing a vacuum to build up inside the fuel tank, which starves the fuel system. Your new high performance pump creates more of a demand on the ventilation than its seen in a long time...


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Re: 1985 dodge b150, strange series of events
Vanube #788777 February 25th 2022 1:50 pm
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When the carb was rebuilt, new brass float? Did it get or have a plastic one? Did the coating on the carb get stripped off when rebuilt? I did that one todays gas sucks. Do you have a filter/check valve in the booster line? Did a backfire mess it up? If you take a shop vac and put it on the booster line, do you have power brakes? Do you have 2 separate problems. Past couple days I was chasing a belt noise, It ended up being a alternator bearing and a fuel injector! If it is a fuel problem like Ram4ever mentioned about the emission lines, you can't get the gas out if the air can't get in.
GM HEI loves 12 volts, it needs a resistive spark plug wire or it will blow the module. If still using the stock coil, ditch it use a GM HEI one. They make external coil for the gm to help pull the heat out of the dizzy. We had a Dodge van and would keep a extra coil with us because it would blow once a year. The Factory replacements are junk with aluminum windings, if we could find a brass terminal copper wound one it would last long enough to forget the problem. An aftermarket coil looks expensive but it cheaper than buying 5 junk ones and matches the module.

1 member likes this: Ram4ever

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