Been mounting a second alternator where AC compressor used to ride Cleaning throttle body Attending to old hard vaccuum hoses and broken vaccuum nipples on the Air pump/EGR/ charcoal cannister Solenoids. New Coil and wiring to it.
Lookee that red head steering gear poking out of there.
Looking forward to driving it, one of these days.
Those are HELLA 003427291 Vision Plus with Phillips extreme +140 H4/9003/HB2 bulbs installed.
They make an absolute mockery of regular sealed beams.
The stupid blue banding attenuating light output from the high beam filament, comes off with a sharp razor blade. Best high beams I've ever driven behind
Well the redhead steering gear is nearly as good as hoped for. The response to input is much much better, much easier to stay in the center of the lane as other faster slower vehicles and trucks pass on either side.
There appears to be more power assist than before. Likely as a result of new fresh fluid and a disassembled completely cleaned Saginaw power steering pump.
it is still quiet, and I do not believe any vaccuum bleeding of the power steering system is required, but I want a vaccuum tool anyway so will likely try it anyway.
If I had to do this steering coupler/gear PS pump thkng all over, starting with what I know now.
I would use Anti seize on teh DD shaft into teh steering column, and not use a large length of it into the steering column, only an inch or thee is likely required.
Taking the steering column off of the floor is simple. Just have a good way to hold it securely once the bolts are off, or it can fall and stress a bunch of wires and their connectors in teh area. Removing the steering column and lifting it a few inches, might make the whole task easier.
The quality of regular remanufactured steering gears is highly suspect. The redhead is basically 4 times as expensive, but the steering has never felt better or more responsive.
The flaming river coupler wearing out in 11 years and less than 40K miles, is kind of disappointing, but I think its wear was accentuated by the poor Apsco remanufactured gear which was so loose on day one and just got worse and worse. At the end it was bump steering. usually this is worn stereing components like tres or BJ's but mine are still tight. The master cylinder reservoir just above leaking on the coupler likely aided its demise by rusting the interior of the splines allowing more slop right there.
retightening the grub screws of the coupler, actually took a lot of the slop out of it, when i noticed slop in the coupler.
I used a fat tire bike innertube over the column, coupler and the input shaft of the redhead to protect it. Actually remembered to install it before lowering the steering column onto the coupler, which was the only part of this which required a second set of hands.
Anyway, while Awaiting the Permatex thread sealer to arrive, and for it to cure, I installed and nearly perfectly aligned a second 120 amp alternator, fixed a bunch of old hard leaking vaccuum hoses, and a bunch of other things. It drives better than ever right now, with some fresh fluids awaiting their new home. The transmission pan's drain plug it out right now, as is the external spin on remote filter.
The differential is getting new Schaeffers 293 gear oil as well
Hopefully I'll be done with teh major maintenance items for a while and can get nearly 18mpg highway. The vaccuum hoses went way too long without close inspection.
The cannister purge solenoid had two inlets snapped off and were repaired badly long ago then hidden with black rtv. There has been a vaccuum leak right here, for who knows how long. Freaking 70$ solenoid. I superglued the inlets backon then once that cured re enforced them with JB Weld.
Also I found that vaccuum operated door which diverts air from cold air snorkkel to hot air stove pipe from manifold, stuck to suck hot air from manifold always, as soon as the engine starts, even up to full temperature. The temp sensor inside the air cleaner is right on the shelf next to the unobtanium unicorn tears, apparently, but I got some feelers out, but will likely just remove and plug its vaccuum source for now.
Resealing the Saginaw PS pump, was pretty frustrating, mostly trying to get the pump body from teh reservoir housing. I also made a mistake regarding the position of one O ring. I'm blaming my dog for distracting me at that moment I needed to slide it over into the adjacent groove. This mistake caused a lot of cursing, but at least I did not have to remove pump body from reservoir housing again.
I've heard nothing good about remanufactured saginaw pumps, even though one at oreilleys is less than 50$ and I spent 2 days resealing mine. The vanes inside can be put in backwards and the sharp edge can be riding the interior of teh cam, instead of the slightly rounded edges. also the cam gear itself can be put back in upside down. I dont think jose Q employee at rebuilders anonymous cares if the vanes are installed backwards or the cam they slide against is upside down.
I'm glad the mystery of how power steering pumps work is gone, and I am glad mine is not leaking and the kit I bought to reseal it was correct and complete, but If I were to find a new quality pump under 200$, and could go back in time, I would.
I'd also go further back in time and not reuse some of the bolts holding water pump to timing chain cover to block.
The temp sensor inside the air cleaner is right on the shelf next to the unobtanium unicorn tears, apparently, but I got some feelers out, but will likely just remove and plug its vaccuum source for now.
Thanks for the product link Nate, cost 30$, shipping 40$.....
I mean overnight shipping, perhaps.
On Dodge TBI systems the engine computer is expecting this air cleaner temperature sensor to regulate intake charge temperature to 100f by vaccuum modulating the blend door from stove pipe or cold air intake.
its not JUST for cold engine improved driveability, as so many people are telling me, but disabled, once warm, it might not make any appreciable difference, or it might.
I've no time to order and await arrival of the part. It's going to get disconnected for now, but part of me wants to see if I can fix it, the sensor itself. Got so be something simple like a bimetal spring closing off an aperture limiting vaccuum . Whatever is closing off that aperture could simply be stuck, and perhaps I could free it up.
Off topic from the steering coupler and steering gear, but Oh well.
hey guys...ive been wanting to do this for years and finally got around to doing it...my setup was slightly different than the OPs and thought i would share pics from an 87 dodge b150 steering /coupler and what i done.....the steering column/tube on the 87 is perfectly round and measures 1 inch O.D. and a 3/4 dd steering shaft slides inside of it perfectly and to keep it from moving i thru-bolted it....then from there it hooks up to the flaming river u-joint and finally the redhead steering gearbox.....i went with the redhead,new power steering pump,new hoses,new fluid,etc....
shes smooth as silk ...before final assembly of the greased the hell out of the 3/4 dd steering bar and the 1 inch round steering column/tube to ensure easy dissassembly if i ever have to replace the u-joint....only other thing i will do is grease up the u-joint area really good and then fashion a piece of sheet rubber or tire tube to wrap it all up like a steering condom to protect it from water,etc...
in my opinion it was well worth the expense and steers great....THANKS OP for sharing youre knowledge on this modification....really well thought out...
When you cut off the original shaft, was there a DD receptacle inside for the DD shaft, or is it just round and the flat parts of the DD shaft grab nothing?
If the latter, and if there is only that one 10-24 through bolt, then your entire steering is dependent on the shear strength of that 10-24 bolt, which is not acceptable.
My original coupler has a 3/8" grade 5 through bolt( perhaps grade 8) , AND the DD receptacle.
I see two additional screw heads, do these screws also go all the way through the DD shaft as well?
If it is just the single 10-24 through bolt and no DD receptacle in steering column, I'd not trust the strength.
If that bolt shears, you will have no steering. It would likely shear when parking and perhaps not be so dangerous, but I imagine getting it out, to replace, would be a nightmare.
That through bolt, I say make it grade 5 minimum, and no less than 5/16" diameter.
I'd hate to think the whole steering was dependent on the shear strength of one 10-24 stainless through bolt, and the worst were to happen.
If there is no DD receptacle inside the steering column for the DD shaft, please make that through bolt thicker and check it often. With no power assist, think about how hard it is to turn that steering wheel with the engine off and when not moving, how much stress is on that through bolt.
Then go see how easy it is to bend a 10-24 stainless bolt. or even a grade 5 10-24.
YES INDEED...YOU HAVE GOOD EYES....I AGREE....the single 10-24 is way to weak...thats why i went with 3 of them thru bolted....and in all honesty i will be making the change to a grade 5 5/16 bolt for peace of mind....
PLEASE USE LARGER HARDENED BOLTS GUYS....i would hate to hear of somebody getting killed by using weak,inferior bolts....i dropped the ball on that for sure and had plans of doing a followup....will be changing to bolts tommorrow
I found this post because I had the similar issue. I purchased the parts and was going to have my ASE mechanic in Ensenada, Mexico do the work but he came up with a different solution. I didn't need the DD shaft. Only needed the universal joint.
My mechanic went to a good machinist and had the tip of the original part modified so it fit in to the DD receptacle of the universal joint and there you go. Just a different way to skin that cat. Drives and steers like a charm! Going to attach some pics.