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Interior Lighting Wiring
#776834 May 28th 2021 4:37 pm
Joined: Sep 2019
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IN the next few weeks I plan to work on running my wiring for the interior lighting. It isn't going to be anything crazy, just 4 overhead interior lights. I wanted to know what your guys' recommendations are. I was thinking about running them off the old dome light wiring for a constant 12v and tying them into a series circuit.

These lights only have an on/off switch. I want to be able to turn them on individually, not when the door is opened like a courtesy light.


Please advise.

Thank you.

Last edited by Charlie99909; May 28th 2021 4:38 pm.

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Re: Interior Lighting Wiring
Charlie99909 #776840 May 28th 2021 10:46 pm
Joined: Aug 2002
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I have always used the existing dome light wiring. Never had an issue.


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Re: Interior Lighting Wiring
Charlie99909 #776842 May 29th 2021 3:20 am
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Do you want the lights to work only with key in ignition and on accessory or run?

Sometimes tapping existing wiring and asking that originally undersized circuit, to power even more load, even within the rating of the fuse, can be less than Ideal and become troublesome.

While one will often say well LEDs draw less juice, some of My LED T10 wedge base bulbs can go as high as 0.7 amps each, which is insanely bright and more amp draw than a 168 or 194 incandescent, but I use voltage buckers as a dimmer, so I have that insanity on tap, but dial it way down 99% of the time.

My voltage bucker is rated for 5 amps, so I need to keep all the lighting powered through the bucker below this threshold which has not been an issue.

If you tap an existing circuit to power your new lighting harness you either tap it before the fuse and fuse your new circuit separately, or after the OEM fuse and hope the total load on that circuit stays below that fuse's rating. You cant just use a higher rated fuse, safely.

My preference is that my lighting be independent of the Ignition/ OEM wiring. My door activated dome lights are still functional, but on my Dodge, there is a time delay relay on this circuit which will cause an almost 0.3 amp parasitic draw even if the dome lights are switched off at the dome light, but the doors are open. To eliminate this parasitic draw I have to rotate the headlamps dimmer switch all the way off.

0.33 amps for 3 hours is 1 amp hour consumed from the battery. a group 34 starting battery has ~55 amp hours total capacity, when new and fully charged.

its not a huge parasitic draw, but it will add up to the detriment of the battery, which ideally always wants to be fully charged. *0% charged to 1005 charged takes no less than 3.5 hours when held at mid 14 volts that entire time, something few voltage regulators allow.

Tapping a fuse for another circuit is not hard. The following products make it easier:
ATC/ATo fuse:
https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO



glass fuse:

https://www.amazon.com/Wirthco-0303...d=1622271759&s=automotive&sr=1-3

When touching original wiring is not desirable, and running new wire through the firewall not a huge ordeal, I recommend doing so and using a new inline fuse at the battery with 10AWG running to the interior.

https://www.amazon.com/10-Gauge-Fus...d=1622271840&s=automotive&sr=1-5

The quality of your wire terminations will be directly related to the reliability.

If running a new fused circuit through firewall, then products similar to below can also be useful:

https://www.amazon.com/Sunjoyco-Cha...=1622272074&s=automotive&sr=1-27


Dimming LEDs is another topic, and PWm LED dimmers are easily available, but in my experience the LEDS can actually whine audibly as reduced brightness and can screw up radio and TV reception.

I'v replaced all my PWM LED dimmers with xl4005 or xl4015 based voltage buckers, as they can dim much further and they do not have whine when dimmed and do not flicker, as many PWm led dimmers and PWM motor speed controllers do. The dimmers are nice as they have the adjustment knob built in, but one should shop for PWm dimmers or controllers with 21khz or higher to prevent audible whine to human ears, though Fido might still hear it. The PWM dimmers also work with incandescent lights if one is not inclined towards LEDs

The voltage buckers I use I Modify with a remotely located fingertwist potentiometer of the correct value, as otherwise one would need to bust out a jewelers screwdriver to adjust.

I use these Voltage buckers to speed control insanely powerful computer fans as well.

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Re: Interior Lighting Wiring
Charlie99909 #776843 May 29th 2021 7:06 am
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If you're going to run a new circuit to the fuse block with an inline fuse this kit comes in handy, makes it real easy to tap a spare one.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aww-500429


1987 G20
2015 XL1200C
2010 E61
Re: Interior Lighting Wiring
Charlie99909 #776943 May 30th 2021 10:08 pm
Joined: Sep 2019
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So, I’m going to be running these lights inside.

[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

And I found the live interior overhead light. I forgot to check it and see if it is for the door switch or not. If it is live the whole time, I want to tap essential four lights into it if that is possible.


You hear the thunder of stampeding rhinos, elephants and tacky tigers
This town ain't big enough for the both of us
And it ain't me who's gonna leave
Re: Interior Lighting Wiring
Charlie99909 #776985 June 01st 2021 6:09 am
Joined: Apr 2021
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Dome is normally switched via the doors or the headlight switch.


1994 G20
2002 Express, sitting dead
1988 G20 conversion, stored
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