1995 Vandura conversion setting up for camping with shore power hook up, fridge, inverter, house battery. Love to install a/c in rear window instead of portable unit, portables are not as reliable and take up too much space. Will be going with 5k 115v unit. I've seen some guys cut the door out but I'd rather not. Any idea before I pull the window out? Should I remove rubber and mount my to frame or leave rubber? Was going to go rooftop but have nice lighting in ceiling and also trying to stay incognito, if portable is best tell which brand because they don't cool the same as window units example a portable unit would have to be 8 or 10k to be the same as 5k window unit and put off a lot more heat... I also heard one guy got pulled over for having an a/c in his rear window,,,,
Not really sure, but I bet that's a lot of weight on the rear door hinges. I too dislike the portable units. When they first came out I was ecstatic that I didn't have to lug the heavy window units in and out of my house windows every year. After having them for a few years, I'm unimpressed with their performance. They don't cool quite as good, but I'm sure they'd do well enough for our tiny vans.
The main problem I have with them is the exhaust tube is heating up like crazy as it blows the hot air out to the window, then the A/C is having to work even harder to cool the room because of the heat that tube is radiating. It just makes for a horrible inefficient setup. I'm planning on installing a 14" rear vent with a fan, and insulating everything really well. If the heat ever gets too bad, I'll look into the roof mounted A/C, though I see how that wouldn't work in your case.
Keep us posted on what you end up going with and hopefully some of the other guys chime in soon too.
I Know a guy that runs a portable air unit in his pop up camper. He wrapped the hose with a small blanket. Cools okay but not enough to satisfy me.
Most people I know will pull the rear glass. Cut a frame from plywood or sheet metal to fit the window frame. Screw that to the inside of the door. Then install the AC to the frame you made. Making it easy to take out in put the window back in when not in use.
Since I don't have windows in my doors I run the front door shelf setup. With the front driver's side window down. I measured the length along the bottom. I cut two sections of 2x4 to length and then cut some plywood the same length and width enough to sandwich the door frame between the two 2x4s with the plywood top. That acts as the shelf for the AC unit to sit on. I use some foam to pack around the top and sides of the AC and I'm good to go for the weekend. Here is a pic of a similar setup.
Arianrhod:2003 Chevy Astro Black Magic: 1985 Dodge B-250 Serenity:1985 Chevy G-20 The Outcast:1983 Ford club wagon Luna 1974 VW bay window transporter Freedom:1990 Ford E-150(parts van) Outcast Vanners van club Support your local 2%
Thanks guys, the doors on these Chevy's are pretty beefy and wouldn't be opening and closing it very much. Yeah the hoses get hot on portables don't know why they don't use insulated duct for those, if I go that route I will use insulated flex. Think I'll install it in driver side rear so still can see out back rear view. BTW I bought air bag system for the van and new shocks and it's like brand new no sag!
Hi guys,,,I put in new shocks all the way round first, went with KYB mono they are great and leveled they van pretty good so went with AirLift bags i rear just because and man it's great so glad I didn't have to do springs. I know now the shocks were original so it needed all 4. I did go with the total incognito look for camper. The picture above shows it complete with fridge, stove, microwave, and portable a/c 13k ran out window. Running inverter/charger(Trplite) with 2- 6v gel 220ah each, a/c d/c panel without converter, VSR charger, AiLi monitor, ran shore power, outlets. So now I can run fridge while driving and boondock some and use shore power when needed for a/c.