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Guy takes on a 50 ft wave in Maui
#772166 March 02nd 2021 7:38 pm
Joined: Jun 2010
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frscke1 Offline OP
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SUNSHINE VANS-VAN DIEGO
ADRENALIN BY THE GALLON & CHASIN RACIN
ONE FOR THE DIRT & ONE FOR THE STREETS
'93 CHEVY G30 454 4X4 SPORTVAN EXT 146" WB
'92 CHEVY G30 454 BEAUVILLE EXT 146" WB
Re: Guy takes on a 50 ft wave in Maui
frscke1 #772176 March 02nd 2021 10:44 pm
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Sir Sara Lee Big Cheesecake Long Hair Master
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Unbelievable. I've seen surf programs where they are towed out by jet skies or dropped from helicopters. Most likely the North Shore , Waialua Hawaii.

Re: Guy takes on a 50 ft wave in Maui
frscke1 #772189 March 03rd 2021 9:45 am
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Pe'ahi, Maui. Nickname, Jaws. Outer reef break, surfed like you described. Boats deliver the Surfers there too.

I can get quite scared enough on the beach breaks in North County. Back in the day. The last time I tried to paddle out at Seaside in Cardiff, the Lifeguard Bullhorned me out of the water, citing, "Unsafe, conditions." Then Joe Blair warned me not to even think about paddling out at Swami's. So I put that on my bucket list.

I overheard a convo at Dennys in Escondido. Dude was relating how it took him years surfing at Swami's before a single person finally acknowledged him and said, "Hi."

I told him next time you should mention that my Mom's ashes are scattered there and they should pay their respects every time they paddle out. Mine will be too.

I learned to surf at Beacon's in Leucadia. Same thing there, even back in the day. I went left there backside alot due to this. Only made me a better sh**ty Surfer, so many thanks to all the stuck up people.

Can't think of any on here though. Praise God!


"Who New? Blue"
1990 Chevy G30 454
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"Old Blue"
1988 Dodge B250

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'94 Dodge B350 www.xplorermotorhome.com/
Xplorer MH model 230 230 hp MPI 360 LA Wedgy OD auto

Old vans never really die if we chose to let them live
Re: Guy takes on a 50 ft wave in Maui
frscke1 #772200 March 03rd 2021 1:42 pm
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Back in the day, well about 5+ years ago, I was the lifeguard at Seaside (and Torrey Pines and San Elijo and Carlsbad defending on the shift). I left surfers alone if they looked like they knew what they were doing, it didn't take long to spot someone who didn't! Fact is that state lifeguards have zero power to make anyone do anything, anyway. Only the cop lifeguards do and you rarely see them on the beach. I just picked up the pieces of those who chose to ignore my sage wisdom!


1988 B250 Conversion Van
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Re: Guy takes on a 50 ft wave in Maui
frscke1 #772204 March 03rd 2021 3:56 pm
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I totally agree with the Lifeguards assessment. I wouldn't have wanted to rescue me either! The Ski Vest gives it away every time... shocked

I took Paddleboard lessons from 2 Standup Guys, you would've LYFAO, windward on Carlsbad Lagoon I couldn't get up, and they were afraid to take me into the Lagoon because they were afraid I'd fall and hit the dock. One guy stayed with me as I fell behind the group, including my Red Hot Smoking GF. Who I totally blame for the Seaside incident. grin But that's a whole nuther story!

My perseverance and teenage Shitty Surfing paid off,, and it all changed when we turned around and the wind was at our backs. Bam, right up.. The Guys were amazed, and admitted thinking, no way this guy gets up, I fell so much. 😆

Last edited by Wedgy; March 03rd 2021 4:21 pm.

"Who New? Blue"
1990 Chevy G30 454
Church Van, maternity division

"Old Blue"
1988 Dodge B250

"Cabin Cruiser"
'94 Dodge B350 www.xplorermotorhome.com/
Xplorer MH model 230 230 hp MPI 360 LA Wedgy OD auto

Old vans never really die if we chose to let them live
Re: Guy takes on a 50 ft wave in Maui
frscke1 #772213 March 03rd 2021 10:30 pm
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Having been a dedicated surfer for nearly 40 years, I can spot an inexperienced surfer simply by the way they carry their board under their arm walking from parking lot to waters edge.

It does not make 40 years to develop this skill, nor does it take any concerted effort to do so.

Never a paid lifeguard, I've saved many a drowning person, and have had to go out and bring people in who should have never attempted to paddle out in the first place given the conditions, after I warned them they should not go out and it was a lot bigger than it looked from the beach. This latest example was In Baja in one place where there was an easy rip/conveyor belt which would make it easy for even the biggest surfing neophyte/poorest paddler possible to get outside the breaking waves. Most places would just push them back to the beach with their tail between their legs.

Regarding wave height...
The Hawaiian Method is usually measuring half the back of the wave, not the wave face, but sensationalism of today's Media would not tolerate a wave with a 50 foot face being called 12 foot.

Anything over a 15 foot face is pretty much a different level of surfing and a newbie faced with a 6 foot wave (~10' to 12' face) about to break on them would shit their wetsuit, twice, and call it a 20 foot wave.

Only those beginners or the too stupid to be afraid, or respectful of the ocean would go out.

But there is no shortage of those, anymore.

Pe'ahi/ Jaws is a beast of a wave, and while someone with big enough balls and a waveski with competent driver could be towed into one, few could ever actually read the wave well enough to do anything other then wear a
3 foot thick lip falling on their Neck from 40+ feet up, if they even made it to the bottom.

Those guys, and gals, dedicated to surfing such insanely large and powerful waves, are on a whole different level. There is likely less than 200 competent big wave surfers on the planet, but 100 times that amount will claim such abilities.

Re: Guy takes on a 50 ft wave in Maui
frscke1 #772215 March 03rd 2021 11:12 pm
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W O W! Just freaking wow.

I've always dreamed of learning to surf. I'm probably too busted up and out of shape for it now, but one day I'd still love to learn.


[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]

Re: Guy takes on a 50 ft wave in Maui
frscke1 #772236 March 04th 2021 10:33 am
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I was 12. I had a Surf Systems 7'6" I was a good swimmer, and was hooked on surfing before I even learned. Those days are behind me now, but I did surf as much as I could, until I couldn't.

The easiest place to learn is on Waikiki Beach, in Hawaii. IMO. The waves are long rollers in shallow water. The water there is amazing.

I bet you could get up on a Paddleboard Kursed. They are super fun even on flat water, and it doesn't hurt when you fall.


"Who New? Blue"
1990 Chevy G30 454
Church Van, maternity division

"Old Blue"
1988 Dodge B250

"Cabin Cruiser"
'94 Dodge B350 www.xplorermotorhome.com/
Xplorer MH model 230 230 hp MPI 360 LA Wedgy OD auto

Old vans never really die if we chose to let them live
Re: Guy takes on a 50 ft wave in Maui
frscke1 #772252 March 04th 2021 12:58 pm
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I remember going to the theater in Escondido and seeing Endless Summer, and On Any Sunday in a Double Feature on a Double Date!!


"Who New? Blue"
1990 Chevy G30 454
Church Van, maternity division

"Old Blue"
1988 Dodge B250

"Cabin Cruiser"
'94 Dodge B350 www.xplorermotorhome.com/
Xplorer MH model 230 230 hp MPI 360 LA Wedgy OD auto

Old vans never really die if we chose to let them live
Re: Guy takes on a 50 ft wave in Maui
frscke1 #772269 March 04th 2021 5:55 pm
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I learned to Stand Up Paddle after my Orthopedic Surgeon said ride your bike, and I said "What if I fall, how about SUP?"
He said that's a good idea, work on yer core strength. Which SUP sure does, plus it's fun when you fall. Pretty much fun all around.

Matt Poth is still running 2Stand up Guys, the YouTube channel is pretty cool. Ryan Judson is now a Realtor in Coastal San Diego County. Joe Blair is still making surfboards in Solana Beach. Long connection to the history of Surfing. Very humble guy. Good prices on his boards.

I was able to rescue my Original 10' 6" Blair SUP that Joe Blair made, rode, and had patterned his mass produced 10'6" SUP board on. Not the board he took to China. He left that one there. 😆

The 2standupguys have quite a few surf videos on YouTube with Joe Blairs boards, doing 360s and other shortboard tricks. It was fun learning from them and watching them compete in Van Diego.
I'll bet they've taught thousands of people SUP.

Last edited by Wedgy; March 04th 2021 5:57 pm.

"Who New? Blue"
1990 Chevy G30 454
Church Van, maternity division

"Old Blue"
1988 Dodge B250

"Cabin Cruiser"
'94 Dodge B350 www.xplorermotorhome.com/
Xplorer MH model 230 230 hp MPI 360 LA Wedgy OD auto

Old vans never really die if we chose to let them live

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