Few bits more progress.....I ordered a 1.5" stainless angle (brushed finish to match the fridge door) that I will cut and attach to the edge along the slider step. I will have it hang over just enough to run a strand of my LED strip in it so the step will have the same lighting as the area around the roof. It is also perfect to cover both the foam insulation and plywood edge on the floor. I also spent a bunch of hours custom trimming and fitting the first two roof panels by cutting a hole for the aft sunroof and then sneaking up on the perimeter. I think the plastic bulkheads I made will work well, as the panel conforms nicely with the sunroof frame. I took these two panels and laid two plies of fiberglass on both upper and lower seams, then ground it smooth (relatively). Let me just say it would be a WHOLE lot easier with an additional set of hands to hold it up. Let's just say it's quite a sight with me laying on my back, splayed out with my feet holding certain areas and a hand another while I try to load screws to get it secured....I also discovered via a talk with Painless Performance that it appears my original ignition switch, which I used because the aftermarket one I got would not work with the dash bezel, is not sending power back to the harness when in the "acc" or "on" position. So I ordered a new actual GM switch and snap in harness, which I will now need to replace and splice in. Of course, I was able to get the bezel nice and tight when installing, but have no chance of spinning it back off without the special three-prong removal tool, so that needs to be ordered as well.
Arianrhod:2003 Chevy Astro Black Magic: 1985 Dodge B-250 Serenity:1985 Chevy G-20 The Outcast:1983 Ford club wagon Luna 1974 VW bay window transporter Freedom:1990 Ford E-150(parts van) Outcast Vanners van club Support your local 2%
This weekend I spent a ton of time on wiring and door panels. I had a couple more switches delivered; the first one will be mounted in a another (GULP) hole I bored in the lower dash right next to my USB port. I will wire this to a constant hot and use it to control the LED drink halos on the doghouse. I think I'll use the other to do the same for those in the RH cutout, although I don't know exactly where to put it yet. My general thought is I don't want any of them on all the time; only when desired. The front pair are obvious. However, if I'm lounging in the back with a cold one in the evening somewhere and would like them on, I don't want to have to crawl to the cab for the on/off function. On the other hand, I am not positive I want the lit switch right next to the holders either. I'll need to stew on that one a bit. I mounted the 3 bank extra Painless relay kit and circuit breaker on the cross support above the wheel well, and am in the process if figuring what I want to run off of them. It is now hardwired to the deep cell battery, and also grounded to an adjacent spot of the battery ground in the front of the back fenderwell, running through a rubber grommet in the floor. I hard wired the lumbar supports on the front seats through the firewall and into a hot circuit, so now they inflate and deflate. I'm excited to see how those work. I got an inexpensive LED strip light that I located and mounted on the forward-facing edge of the aft bed support, and hard wired that to the spare battery. It is not permanent, as all this has to come out at some point for paint, but it will provide me with an easy on-off toggle to hit and flood the cargo space under the bed when light is needed. I also set about getting the panels on both front and rear doors as well as the slider laid out and mounted. Although just minimal at this point (I plan on using those nifty spring steel OEM auto plug clips to snap them in place without fasteners showing), I now have them at least cut and fitted. The corner radii took some massaging! It also becomes obvious where I will need holes welded in that will remain exposed and painted.