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Re: '88 B250 running problems
KogonDodge #769624 January 13th 2021 2:50 am
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My 89 TBI has a throttle rod between throttle body and A-500 overdrive transmission.

On the drivers side of the TB there is a mechanism to let the TX know the degree of throttle input. There is some sliding of this linkage at the throttle body. The throttle pushes the linkage back, and the TX allows it to return as it wants, with some spring assist.

If it does not slide easily, the TX will be confused.

I had this linkage fall off. It would shift quickly into third gear, nearly instantly when accelerating.
No stalling.

At the TX there is a half inch bolt.

When adjusted as the factory or haynes manual stated, I though it shifted way too late and too harshly, as I would drive. It felt fine if I was accelerating hard, everywhere and did not give a flyingFVck about fuel economy. But I dont so I dismissed the factory service manual and the Haynes

I drove around with a 1/2 inch wrench and would stop and adjust it 1/16" increments until it shifted where I wanted it to shift from first to second and second to third.

I have about 80k miles on the rebuilt TX with it adjusted to MY desires, as to where it shifts.

With no Running boards lifting the vehicle is not needed to access this adjustment point.

Ram4ever, I deleted my FB account, so No more messenger either.

1 member likes this: Ram4ever
Re: '88 B250 running problems
KogonDodge #769633 January 13th 2021 1:23 pm
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Hi wrcsixeight

That sounds like the mechanism I posted about above; that's a copy and past from alldatadiy. I will check it out and make sure it is clean and moving freely like it describes. Once done maybe that's worth adjusting to suit as you describe. My van has running boards but I can just slip underneath if I haven't eaten too many pies the day before!


1988 B250 Conversion Van
https://i.imgur.com/uQPPuqo.jpg
Re: '88 B250 running problems
KogonDodge #769634 January 13th 2021 1:39 pm
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Put 2 tires on the curb and 2 tires in the street .... I have done this many times to keep from getting out the jack and stands ....


SUNSHINE VANS-VAN DIEGO
ADRENALIN BY THE GALLON & CHASIN RACIN
ONE FOR THE DIRT & ONE FOR THE STREETS
'93 CHEVY G30 454 4X4 SPORTVAN EXT 146" WB
'92 CHEVY G30 454 BEAUVILLE EXT 146" WB
Re: '88 B250 running problems
KogonDodge #769858 January 19th 2021 2:26 am
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Well, I've been pretty busy because in between losing my job last summer ("Covid budget cuts") and getting a new job (more money, so up yours old job!), I started a pretty big yard remodel that I'm now having to finish whilst holding down a job too. I thank you all for your suggestions which I am working through. I snatched MLK day 1hr slot I have investigated the Charcoal canister, because its easy to get to!

Conclusion is , it seems good. Everything looks in good shape. Those two center ports both held a vacuum. The bottom one you can see in the gauge seems OK, the vacuum dropped very slowly but when I reconfigured the hoses to my gauge dropped even slower so I think one of the pipes was the leak. Both passed the "tongue test" with no sign of unsticking. I can't see a case here for dropped over $100 on a new one

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


1988 B250 Conversion Van
https://i.imgur.com/uQPPuqo.jpg
Re: '88 B250 running problems
KogonDodge #770245 January 27th 2021 4:37 pm
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Been troubleshooting the van and been through most of the suggestions. Today I took it for SMOG. It passed. The tester noted it would "die" and then recover. It did this real bad when I started it this morning, but on the way home it was fine. Guess warming up helps. it was still doing the jerking under load thing though. The tester suggested swapping out the computer and I might try that if I can get one. I see a 90 B250 in a local pick a part, so I might go down there.

injectors - i watched them with the car running and the air filter off. They were quite noisy but they were throwing fuel consistently onto the butterflys, even when the engine died
computer - as above. All the connectors were cleaned and looked very clean even before
sensor cleaning -I removed and cleaned with the deox stuff, every connector I could find
engine computer ground at coil to intake manifold connection - still to check but the coil was replaced so this should have been tightened up and messed with recently
battery to engine ground - deoxed and tightened up
ground to frame? - yet to do, i will put a jumper cable between batter and frame and see how that goes
fuel pump - was replaced
fuel pressure regulator - was replaced
battery cabling and battery itself looks good. Battery was replaced recently
ballast resistor - cannot be located.Here is where it should be but there is nothing there not space for it. Maybe my model doesn't have one?
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
vacuum hoses - I checked them all again, all looks fine
inlet manifold vacuum - even with the 2 little pipes that go to the flying saucer thing in the air cleaner open, the vacuum held at about 23 units of whatever it is, it seemed pretty consistent. When the engine tried to stall the vacuum would drop, it wasn't immediately clear if that was cause or symptom but nothing happened to suggest cause.
heat riser tube - fine
choke kick solenoid - to do
crankcase breather filter - was replaced
exhaust - looks in great shape; California car
throttle kick down- i checked it all and it is clean and slides just fine. At idle when the engine was dying it didn't move.

I'm leaning to wards this being an electrical issue. The fuel system was virtually all replaced. When the die/surge at idle happened before I replaced the o2 sensor and it went away. Not sure why a two year old o2 sensor who chew itself up, but I ordered a new one. The one in there was 10 dollars, I've gone for a better brand this time @30 something

Open to further suggestions!

As I'm not getting anywhere I have booked this into the local auto shop for a diagnosis on Monday. Maybe I can figure it out by then, in which case i will cancel, but if they find what's wrong and it costs be two hrs of labour I will be cool with that. Even though someone else working on my vehicles where I have failed goes against everything I stand for, I've tried!

Last edited by KogonDodge; January 27th 2021 4:41 pm.

1988 B250 Conversion Van
https://i.imgur.com/uQPPuqo.jpg
Re: '88 B250 running problems
KogonDodge #770258 January 27th 2021 8:00 pm
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check for any stored fault codes in the engine computer via the 'key dance'

Turn on ignition, not to start, on and off three times, then leave it on.
The check engine light will go out, then start flashing

A flash, a pause then two flashes a bit closer together is a code 12. Expect to see this code.
Code 55 is And of codes, expect to see this after all other codes are displayed.
If yours is falling flat sometimes, I'd expect to see a code 14 for the map sensor.
Pretty sure this illuminates the check engine light. not all codes illuminate the CEL and some which do, will not have it lit up after stopping and restarting the engine.
Code 53 is an internal engine computer fault detected. My cardone remanufactured computer has been displaying this code for 15 years......

A list of codes can be found easily online.

How much they asking for the spare engine computer? If you have an OD transmission and get a computer for a 3 speed, you will not have Overdrive anymore.

There is a part number inside your engine computer, Lift up the potted circuit board and the potted circuit board underneath will have the part number.

See if Rockauto might have one.

I've been wanting to replace the capacitors in my original ECM and see if it returns to function.

The little flying saucer in the aircleaner is a device that tries to keep a constant 100F temperature entering throttle body at light throttle. it modulates vaccuum to the blend door which mixes fresh cool air and air captured from passenger side exhaust manifold. I found mine was inoperable and only allowing manifold heat.

When smog tested they just makes sure the snorkel is attached to aircleaner and there is a collector over the manifold, they do not check to see if this system is operating as intended. It does effect fuel economy, not only during warm up but anytime at light throttle. remove the fresh air snorkel from aircleaner with engine at full temperature, and shine a light in the air cleaner snout. At idle if you see the door is closed, your little flying saucer's pintle is clogged and stuck.

Re: '88 B250 running problems
KogonDodge #770261 January 27th 2021 8:45 pm
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The computer at the junkyard seems to be about $35, having said that it is about 1hr away. .I've done that code thing before. I will try it again see what the score is now


1988 B250 Conversion Van
https://i.imgur.com/uQPPuqo.jpg
Re: '88 B250 running problems
KogonDodge #770265 January 27th 2021 9:42 pm
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12
13
14
31

Map sensor and purge valve.

These are all things I have been unplugging and messing with. I'll clear the codes and see if they come back


1988 B250 Conversion Van
https://i.imgur.com/uQPPuqo.jpg
Re: '88 B250 running problems
KogonDodge #770282 January 28th 2021 1:07 am
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Yep, they went away, just a 12 now (battery has been recently disconnected, which it has, because i disconnected it to clear the codes!)

I swear I have made this worse messing around with it. Something I have been doing must have nudged something.

I also cleaned those earths by the coil. One was under the mounting bracket, one into the head. No improvement.


1988 B250 Conversion Van
https://i.imgur.com/uQPPuqo.jpg
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