These are pictures from 2009, not quite all of them that no longer show up earlier in the post, but I think these are the most relevant. I am not sure I still have all the original pics, some pic numbers seemed to have disappeared when I moved photos from one laptop to another then to an external hard drive.
I have ordered a new Gates pressure line and am waffling about getting a reman steering pump or just resealing mine, which works fine, just leaks. I did buy some new 3/8 inch magnetic inline filters for the return line.
Magnefine changed their weepy design of thein inline magnetic filters for transmission or power steering, and I bought some clones of the new design magnefine.
I was considering just running one on my existing pump and gear then put a new on on the new gear, but then remembered my PS fluid is at least half, likely more than half, Lucas power steering stop leak, and I'd prefer to not have to use a thicker than necessary power steering fluid and Lucas is thick.
I did put the new FR steering coupler on the Redhead steering gear. The instant I turns the coupler the output shaft also turns. Zero Slop. There's actually more slop in the splined interface.
Well, it is still not installed. I only slid the flaming river coupler onto the splined shaft while it rested in its delivery box, and saw that the output shaft instantly responded to the input rotation, which I think bodes well for steering slop reduction.
Mofo better not leak.....
I'll have more better pictures of new and old soon.
I've gotten new pressure and return hoses, and found the kit to reseal the Saginaw power steering pump aand think I have all the possible parts I need to complete rebuilding most of my steering system.
The DD steering shaft is frozen inside the Steering column. There is no real good way to hold it and apply enough pressure to either push it deeper or extract it.
I unbolted the steering column from teh floor in order to pull the coupler off the gear's splined input shaft which I needed to do to get the old gear out.
I then cut apart the old coupler in order to get a gear puller on it to remove it. It was largely held in place by the Loctite red I used back in 2009.
My master cylinders over the years have wept brake fluid on the areas below, removing the paint and allowing rust to start and fester. I suspect this is also the cause of the frozen DD steering shaft inside the column and I am annoyed as the first leaker was at the seam on the reservoir, the second one seems to be leaking from under the caps, which appear to be larger than necessary, and loose.
At first I was thinking I could just cut the DD steering shaft and then be able to get it out, but then realized if I could not get it out, I'd need a new steering column, so i cancelled that plan.
Also, the Pitman arm did not want to come off. I have a pitman arm puller, and an 18 inch breaker bar, and was right at the limits when metal bends, threads strip, when i stopped and busted out the propane torch heating the arm evenly, slowly. I was braced for it to pop off but it still alarmed the s#it out of me when it let go.
My phone laptop bluetooth connection is not cooperating or I'd have some more pics to share. Next update will include them.
The Lucas power steering stopleak is thick and red, when new, and what came out was thick and brown but did not smell burnt.
The many many reports of NOisy crappy rebuilt steering pumps convinced me to reseal my existing nice and quiet one, but I wonder if it is worn and was being helped along by the super thick Lucas PS stop leak. I guess if it has poor assist at hot idle with new thin PSF, I can always do the turkey baster thing and return the PS stop leak, but the thicker oil has to be eating up some % of crank horsepower over the standard much thinner PSF.
Eric the car guy's videos on his Saginaw pump have been helpful.
But, I'm kind of wondering if I should just bite the bullet and get a new, not reman'd pump. Guess I've got to try to reseal my existing first, and if new is required, so be it.
The PS pump has 30 years of grime on it and brake cleaner barely made a dent in it, or perhaps wally world brand brake cleaner spray, is crap.
Removing the pulley from the PS pump shaft went pretty smoothly with a Snap on Pulley removal tool, but then getting the round pump portion removed from the reservoir housing was not easy. There was lots of rust in the seam, and I spent a while with a sharpened dental pick and some PB blaster, and eventually got it apart.
There is a metallic sludge inside of it, and the magnet, a disc, not a donut, was also caked with black ferrous paste, more than I've ever seen on any magnet, but for a junkyard differential with 250K+ miles on it.
This disc seems to not have a proper receptacle, jusy kind of rests up against the inlet to the spinning vanes, likely blocking some flow. I need to get in there and clean some more. It's a mess, and it got late, and excuses excuses.
The pulley had a fair amount of surface rust on it. I hit it with a wire brush on an angle grinder, then the dremel with stainless steel wire brushes, then scrubbed it with OSPHO and a green scotchbrite pad.
There's something about scrubbing rusty and rustless and painted metal with Ospho that is both cathartic, and annoying. Paint does really stick well to a properly treated surface. the V groove appeared all rusted and caked with crap, but the osphoed scrubbie cleaned it so well it looks near perfect. My old PS belt's underside is all cracked, I can't remember when last I changed it, at least 11 years, perhaps 15 ago.
The PS pumps's shaft, there is rust on it inbetween teh pulley and the seal, about 1 cm wide, and it is a bit raised and rough. I don't want it ripping up the new seal, once I remove the old and install the new, which is looking to be my next curse fest
WTF did chrysler, in their infinite wisdom have almost all the bolts which hold water pump and timing chain cover and accessory brackets penetrate the water jacket???
To get my PS pump off I had to loosen up its bracket. and nearly 2 gallons of coolant pours out these holes.
One of these bolts is also holding on the bracket for the Air pump. it is 6 inches long, and only 1/2 inch of bolt threads are grabbing the block. Only 1/2 inch worth of threads to seal the water jacket..... Old worn out bolt with too thin threads.....
The other bolt holding the PS pump bracket is only 3.5 inches long, but it too penetrates the water jacket. This one seems OK.
I wirewheeled the bolt threads and permatex'd the threads and sent both bolts home waited a few hours, filled the radiator and ......
Drip drip drip.
Where's my sledgehammer? I need to break something.
No 3/8-16 7 inch bolts apparently exist within 100 miles in any direction. I've ordered some.
Expedited shipping, my keester.
Redhead gear installed. PS pump resealed. New PS filter hardmounted on new return line, new High pressure hose. Watch it too leak.
Yip...back when I had Mopars I kept a bottle of Permatex thread sealant handy at all times! Looks like them threads was dipped in marshmeller fluff! lol
I decided to Order the Permatex High temperature Thread Sealant for the new 7 inch bolts I also ordered, and it quickly made its way to a regional sorting center, and then sat there for 5 days only arriving today, day 5.
Day 4 I walked to Napa, saw they had it on the shelf, and bought it. Giant tube for 15$.
Marshmellow fluff is right.
I added some more threads to the 7 inch bolt as only the last 1.5 inches was threaded, and then cut off 1/2" off the end of the bolt which would just be sticking into the water jacket doing nothing. I found another bolt highly suspect, and cut a 5.5 inch bolt and threaded it.
I left a blob on the wood table surface and 22 hours later was extremely dismayed to see it was still totally uncured. Turns out it needs to be on a metal to activate it. 24 hours to full cure at 72f. No way my engine got over 60f in the 28 hours subsequent.
I've not added coolant, and there is a little 200 watt heater below the water pump and some insulation to help speed the cure
I removed the AC compressor and replaced it with an Alternator. Found the original alternator 6mm out of parallel alignment with crank pulley. Been this way for years, but now is intolerable
Second alternator on old Ac bracket is within 0.5mm Cleaned the throttle body Osphoed the air cleaner housing and lid Will be draining my transmission through the drainplug and changing the external spin on filter Will be changing my differential oil as well, got 3 quarts of Schaeffers 293 75w-90 for my open Chrysler 9.25.