No Elmer's! Cut original top off 2" up from rain gutter all the way around. Cross ribs stay where they are attached to main body for support. Did all body work on donor top, on saw horses, before putting into place. New top over laps the 2" of the old top. Pretty much squares itself up. Left a 3" bare perimeter around new top for welding, hammer, dolly work. Dug out old calking, resealed rain gutter with paintable sealer. This seemed easier to me than standing on a ladder, reaching into middle of old top and repairing the unsightly rear vent and front leaking Sun roof. Now onto the floor or lack of!
Damn! That's more that I usually see here in the southeast. To a guy like me, who has zero body shop skills, that looks like a lot of work. I'll tackle drive train, electrical, suspension, etc, etc. I've tried enough body work and metal work to know I'm better off letting someone else do it. It's a talent I do not have. It'll be great to see how that's done.
I've heard GM put different amounts/types of rustproofing on their vans depending where they were being shipped. That looks like an Arizona van that ended up in the rust belt ! Great resto though, as they say here "more power to yer elbow".
Way to go man. Holes in a roof of a van are nothing but trouble.
Arianrhod:2003 Chevy Astro Black Magic: 1985 Dodge B-250 Serenity:1985 Chevy G-20 The Outcast:1983 Ford club wagon Luna 1974 VW bay window transporter Freedom:1990 Ford E-150(parts van) Outcast Vanners van club Support your local 2%