Does anyone have experience replacing an overhead TV in an Explorer conversion high top? Mine is a 2004 and I'd like to install a newer and modern TV that has a Roku TV box or use Google Chromecast. Here is a photo of the interior. I see several mounting buttons in the area but before I start messing with it, I was just wondering if anyone here had any experience replacing their TV....thanks.
No one responded, so finally I decided to just trial and error it....turns out it was very easy to do. I pried off 6 button caps to expose the wood screws. Then unscrewed the screws, unscrewed the two speakers and the front facade can be easily removed by pulling it straight down.
The 22" FlexVision TV that was there was held mounted to a metal bracket...I unscrewed that, removed all the cables and it came right out. TV's back then weighed a ton, it felt like it was at least 25lbs. I used the same metal bracket and drilled two holes for the full-motion TV mount. Be sure to offset the mount to the side so that the TV is centered when you put it onto the bracket.
Also had to add a 12V DC inverter since the TV I used was only AC power. I went with a TCL 32" Roku TV, which was inexpensive and had the features I needed, including component video input & 3 HDMI inputs...the component video input allowed me to still connect the DVD player that is housed in the floor console with these Explorer Conversion vans.
All components were purchased at Walmart and it was an affordable upgrade for around $200
TCL 32" Roku TV $118 full motion TV mount $20 12V DC inverter $30 Indoor/outdoor amplified HDTV antenna $25
Also a couple of bolts and nuts and a few minor wiring modifications (crimping connectors for the wiring to power the inverter) and the new TV is ready to go! I use my cell phone as the WiFi hotspot and can stream Netflix and whatever else is available on the TV. The HDTV antenna also picked up all the over the air channels in my region. The antenna is discreetly clipped at the top edge of the TV in the photo. Very pleased with the results.
*Only collateral damage was that the two grilles of the two speakers removed could not be put back on due to the plastic breaking from brittle-ness due to its age. But not a big deal at all, as I'm just using the TV speakers for sound now.
If your Tv was used to pull in over the air broadcast TV waves, that inverter's electrical noise could pose issues to certain TV channel frequencies.
A few have reported the inverter causes engine driveability problems, screwing with sensors or the engine computer.
Most TVs nowadays convert 115Vac to some DC voltage inside the TV, where in times past many used an external 'wall wart' or inline 'power brick' to convert AC to DC.
The inverter converts DC to AC, then the powerbrick/wall wart converts AC to DC each at best, around 85% efficiently. So often these power bricks could simply be replaced with DC to DC boost converters to take 12.x DC battery voltage and step it up to what the Tv required, usually 19.5vdc like many laptops.
I do have a 12vDC TV, and while one might read online that if it gets 12.5vdc or 11.5vdc it will not work or blow up, this is not true 100% of the time, likely in very few cases is it true.
.A wide range of DC electrical pressures(voltage) still allow operation. I know I have significant voltage drop on my DC wiring to the TV, and have intentionally drained my battery to 10.7v, meaning it the TV was likely only getting 9.5vDC or less and it was still working fine. Likewise when charging at higher voltages the Tv was likely getting well over 14 volts. No issues.
Here is an inexpensive DC to DC boost converter that one can often use, rather than an inefficient inverter and avoid the double conversion of Dc to AC and then back to DC.
I make wide use of both boost and buck converters, and some buck/boost converters for powering and speed controlling Fans and LED lights or charging batteries, and rarely ever use my inverter for anything.
Inverters powering larger loads should be placed close to the battery over thick cabling. A distant Inverter fed thin wiring is going to have its low voltage alarm go off, when the battery is in no danger of over depletion. The lower the input DC voltage an inverter is fed, the less efficient it becomes. Always better to use 115vAC extension cords to the appliance from an inverter located closer to the battery, as the higher the voltage, the less the voltage drop.
A lot of inexpensive inverters are not just Modified square wave, as opposed to the power grids true sine wave, but a very poor imitation square wave. This can show up as a 60Hz buzz in the speakers, and hotter electrical components inside the device being powered, and heat is the enemy of electronics.
So while an inverter is often seen as the solution to powering all household appliances things from battery power, it is often not the best way to do it, especially if one has limited battery capacity.
I view mine as a necessary evil, that I have to have, but use rarely.
The biggest potential problem I see is the inverter you used. The one you have is a square wave inverter and a tv needs a sine wave inverter to function correctly. Yours will work, for awhile, but it will burn out your tv over time. A sine wave inverter costs three to four times as much as you paid, but your tv will last years, same as it would at home plugged into the wall.
Like I said, what you have WILL work, just not for as long, so enjoy it for now and know at some point you will have to replace the tv and I recommend the inverter too.
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