If there is that much rust to the point of metal missing …. what does the rest of the under side look like.
Do you really want to make your 4x4 on a rusted chassis. 4x really takes the metal to the limit and to have it rusty to start with is not the best idea, cause when your out there . . There is no shop to make another part & no welder to fix it. just my opinion.
Can you keep the cab & find a better undercarriage, do a ft & rear swap, heck you might find a 4x in terrible shape body wise but undercarriage is in fine shape. Might get that on for a song N dance.
You wouldn't build your house on sand … you'd build your house on rock.
SUNSHINE VANS-VAN DIEGO ADRENALIN BY THE GALLON & CHASIN RACIN ONE FOR THE DIRT & ONE FOR THE STREETS '93 CHEVY G30 454 4X4 SPORTVAN EXT 146" WB '92 CHEVY G30 454 BEAUVILLE EXT 146" WB
If there is that much rust to the point of metal missing …. what does the rest of the under side look like.
Do you really want to make your 4x4 on a rusted chassis. 4x really takes the metal to the limit and to have it rusty to start with is not the best idea, cause when your out there . . There is no shop to make another part & no welder to fix it. just my opinion.
Can you keep the cab & find a better undercarriage, do a ft & rear swap, heck you might find a 4x in terrible shape body wise but undercarriage is in fine shape. Might get that on for a song N dance.
You wouldn't build your house on sand … you'd build your house on rock.
That's the weird part, everything else is pretty clean, just that driver side and rockers and quarters. I really don't get it. It's going for safety inspection and emissions before anything else, I'm going to have them look the chassis over really well as they already know my plans for 4x4. I'm thinking/hoping this is one of those you mentioned with a bad body and alright chassis. I keep asking my body guy about the frame and underside of the floors and anything he can check out before I push on. Worst case I will still go 4x4 and just use it for a mud truck and find a better driver, the down side is equipped wheelchair vans are far and few and salty. Getting financed for a transit or sprinter is still rattling around the back of my mind, but then I'm paying for the next 5-8 years.
98 Dodge shorty hitop mark iv 95 Chevy van 20 regency hitop conversion van
Thanks very much for the info,. I did not want to weld new sheet metal on top of the body mount bolt head in case I ever wanted to change out the body mount bushings (which on mine, are still in pretty good shape), although that would be a much quicker solution to just tack it down over the fused bolt and be done with it. Amazon is delivering a 24 inch breaker bar today for the lower retainer nut which has been soaking in WD-40 for about a week. I have a new bolt and lower retainer nut to put in there, if I can get the old one out.
You can buy body plugs on eBay, I would cut out for the bolt and pop one of those in the hole. I don't think it would be too noticeable if it's just the size of the socket or a hair bigger. Especially if you put carpet and pad over it. I have a 6x6 amphibious atv and it takes 7/8 or 3/4" plugs I bought a big bag of them on eBay, they had a bunch of different sizes.
Last edited by Dw89xj; January 15th 2020 7:41 pm.
98 Dodge shorty hitop mark iv 95 Chevy van 20 regency hitop conversion van
Exactly the same on my 2008 Econoline, the worst of the rust is by far under the driver's feet and to a lesser degree, under the passenger feet right around the body mount bolt. I have a theory that mine rusted out from underneath around the body mount bolt where water and road salt got between that heavier-gauge curved plate and the floor pan sheet metal around where it was tack welded. I don't know if the factory even used any seam sealer right there. After I get mine fixed I'm going to seal that area up real good!
Added pic of passenger side, there is no hole yet but see the missing metal where the white patch is in the upper left-hand corner. It looks like salt from underneath the floor pan ate it from below and I bet this is how the other side looked too when it first started to corrode. I'm going to cut a smaller patch for the passenger side too and replace the sheet metal here, while the cab is stripped. I bet there is some crusty stuff under there to clean out,
Last edited by Phone_Trucker; January 16th 2020 5:43 pm. Reason: add passenger side picture
2001 Dodge 2500 Cargo Van 5.9L V8 HOA Violator 2008 Ford Econoline Ex-Bell Telephone Generator Van, 7 KW Onan 2010 Ford Econoline Ex-Bell Telephone Generator Van, 7 KW Onan 2010 Ford Econoline Ex-Bell Telephone Generator Van, 6.5 KW Onan
Exactly the same on my 2008 Econoline, the worst of the rust is by far under the driver's feet and to a lesser degree, under the passenger feet right around the body mount bolt. I have a theory that mine rusted out from underneath around the body mount bolt where water and road salt got between that heavier-gauge curved plate and the floor pan sheet metal around where it was tack welded. I don't know if the factory even used any seam sealer right there. After I get mine fixed I'm going to seal that area up real good!
Mines getting a nice heavy coat of something as well, after a trip to the carwash. That theory makes perfect sense to me, but I'm no professional by any stretch. I'm just keeping my fingers crossed that there's no more surprises, every time my body man finds something else it hits my wallet a little harder lol.
98 Dodge shorty hitop mark iv 95 Chevy van 20 regency hitop conversion van
This project has been abandoned. My body man found significant frame rust on the passenger side. I had hoped it was just on the body, wish in one hand..... So this van is being parted out and the 4x4 parts are for sale as well. I found a rust free southern Chevy express diesel I'm trying to buy. There will be a thread started over there if I can buy it. I'm located in Newville PA 17241, any and all parts are for sale. It's a 2002 e250 4.2 4r70w d60 semi float disc brake rear. Runs great has rust underneath. Some areas not so bad others are bad. Complete 4x4 driveline for sale also, would be good swap for anything. Thanks for having me in this group.
98 Dodge shorty hitop mark iv 95 Chevy van 20 regency hitop conversion van
Thank you. Yeah it sucks, I had high hopes for this van since my grandparents made it possible to get it and they're both gone now. But, at heart I'm a Chevy man, the diesel might be nicer for long trips too. All in all the Chevy has less miles and less rust than my dodge or the Ford. I'm just keeping my fingers crossed and selling everything I can in the meantime to try and buy this Chevy before someone else does.
98 Dodge shorty hitop mark iv 95 Chevy van 20 regency hitop conversion van
why did you go with a straight axle instead of just using a twin I beam front axle setup ? I haven't really done much research but I remember seeing that type of setup and seems like it would have been easier,, ohh and just so you know WD40 is not a good rust penitrant, Liquid wrench or PB plaster is far superior to the Water displacing compound WD
2004 Ford E250 5.4 4r75w dana 60 with 3.73;'s (Current) 1992 Dodge B350 360/46rh non lockup /9.25 rear with 3.90 cogs (sold) 1986 GMC Vandura 2500 305/TH350/3.08 rear (Sold) 1994 G20 Ex Virginia DOT crew van 305/4l60/3.42 G80 10 bolt (Sold) 1969 Chevy G20 Sport van 230,3 on the tree, 12 bolt with 4.11 cogs.(Sold) 2004 Chevy Express 2500 4.8,4l80E,3.73 (sold) 1990 ford e250 club wagon 460.E4OD,dana 60 rear 4.11's (sold)