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| | | valve seal replacement #87768 March 30th 2006 1:53 am | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 240 enthusiast | OP enthusiast Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 240 | After long consideration I am going to be replacing the valve seals on my '77 318 and I am now going to be using an AIR COMPRESSOR, not a CLOTHES LINE (like I was thinking before) to keep the valves up. I know I need an air hose adapter for this but is it a special kind or can I use the one that came with my compression checker? It fits on the hose end and fits in the spark plug hole, is that all I need? I will keep a step by step in this thread if anyone wants to see the work and hopefully I won't need too much more advice. Thanks. | | | Re: valve seal replacement #87769 March 29th 2006 2:06 pm | Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 637 old hand | old hand Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 637 | As long as the pressure you are putting into the cylinder is greater than the force needed to push the spring down far enough to release the retainer. | | | Re: valve seal replacement #87770 March 29th 2006 3:44 pm | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 28,125 Madman! | Madman! Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 28,125 | Thats all I used when i did mine. The valve does not get too much pressure. The spring compressor does not push on the valve, only the spring. | | | Re: valve seal replacement | Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 1 stranger | stranger Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 1 | I need to replace the valve seals, why is this air compressor needed? | | | Re: valve seal replacement | Joined: Nov 2013 Posts: 2,286 Likes: 153 veteran | veteran Joined: Nov 2013 Posts: 2,286 Likes: 153 | To pressurize the cylinder in order to hold the valve closed | | | Re: valve seal replacement | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 4,463 Likes: 12 pooh-bah | pooh-bah Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 4,463 Likes: 12 | What Wedgy is driving at, is that without something to hold the valve up, once it's keepers and spring are released, the valve can drop *all the way* down inside a cylinder, leaving none of the stem exposed!
That would be a disaster, requiring removal of the head, since there really isn't enough room to reach in through the sparkplug hole to manipulate the valve back up into the bearing.
I used a compression tester tool which I modified to hold my valves up. It worked really well.
If you don't have one, you can rent the valve spring compressing tool at almost any auto parts store. They're typically a free rental as long as you give them a card number in case you don't return it. I'm not sure if they'll have the cylinder compression tester tool as a separate item or if it will be part of a kit. Tell the counterperson what you're aiming to do and they'll likely steer you to the correct tools.
Replacing the valve seals was one of the best things I did; instant reduction in smoke and odor in the exhaust, and the engine idled smoother.
If you find that your valve seals have become hard like bowling ball, and have begun to chip into pieces, you're really going to want to pull your oil pan and do some cleanup in the sump, because those chips and chunks will drop to the oil pan, where they're sucked up into the oil pump inlet screen, blocking it.
If there's much of this large debris, it can substantially obstruct the flow of oil. I'd say there was nearly a 70% obstruction in mine!! My engine was pretty extreme though; the previous owner obviously knew nothing about vehicles; he even installed the hoses on the carburetor 90 degrees off in rotation! That sure didn't work very well...
-It's been such a LONG TIME... BlueShift>> 1981 Dodge Ram B250 Custom Sportsman Maxi Van It's what you learn after you know it all, that counts... Are you living to work, or working to live? Learning from my own mistakes is good, learning from yours would be much better! | | |
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