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heater and electrics #741358
October 07th 2018 9:01 am
October 07th 2018 9:01 am
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 5
CO
A
ateamscoobymobile Offline OP
stranger
ateamscoobymobile  Offline OP
stranger
A
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 5
CO
Two issues on my 1977 g10 shorty cargo van..... Not a lot of heat from the heater. when i have it on heater setting even if van running 30 minutes and temp gauge shows its warmed up (there is an aftermarket temp gauge) it blows on drivers side feet, but not too hot, barely warm.... So the fan does work, but there is not anything blow at all on passenger side, just on drivers side. i mostly drive alone, so right now not too concerned about passenger not getting heat, but the temp of the air not being to hot is the issue, on very cold day it is not hot at all so something is broken since it is not anything close to the temp I have in my other rides. The van is warmed up and i understand it takes a while for engine to heat the antifreeze in these vans. But I think I need to see how the duct work is operating, maybe there is an issue where if it has some mechanism controlling mixing with cold air? or the antifreeze is not getting into the heater core? Any thoughts what I should be looking at in fixing this? any diagrams on how G series van heating system is set up would be appreciated.

Also the the break lights turn signals parking lights and tail lights act funny in connected ways. The turn signal speed varies. mostly it blinks fast (like when there is a missing light bulb) but when i press brake it is slow and sometimes it almost looks like it might stop blinking, so it changes speed. When I press brakes the parking lights in front also light up. an on my dash sometimes the turn signal indicators both light up and hold steadily lit when i hit the brakes. Maybe a ground problem? its funny how sometimes the indicator turn signals go on with the breaks and sometimes they seem to not have a problem at all, other than the speed of blinking being variable.

When i got the car the ignition was messed up. The guy i got it from used to have this wire he would connect to the ash tray to ground and start the car. it was quite funny and dramatic way of starting the car. It had the ignition key thing in there but it did not work so he just used that wire he made to start the van.

I ended up pulling out the whole key ignition thing and putting in a more elegant push start button thing (see pic below), but when i put it in i did not use the relay that came with the switch, i just connected the wires to the button directly. How i wired it was I played around with different combinations connecting the wires to figure out which ones did what to start the car. I felt like i was hot wiring the car..... (and i was doing exactly what i saw of people stealing cars like in 1970's or 80's tv shows, like a bad guy on the A team or some cop show).

Anyway now it has the nice button and switch. The switch turns the ignition power on, then the push button when pressed cranks and turns over the engine. it works fine. When i was playing with the wires there was not a lot of length in them and there were a few handing down that did nothing that might have come loose or disconnected to what they should be and by accident when i cut the bunch to the key thing i did not try to keep track of what was prior connected to the key ignition and what was just hanging loose to begin with. After I got the ignition button working with the left over wires I did try to figure out by either connecting them together, grounding them or connect 12v power to them to see what would happen and if turn break light issue would change. Nothing worked. but when i connect some of them to ground or 12 v power, I do see other warning lights like the oil light light up.
When I get a chance I will look the van and describe the colors of the wires not connected to anything.

Any advice on how to go about tracing and figuring out what wires are what would be appreciated. also any suggestions on what to troubleshoot for the heater would be much appreciated!!!!!

Attached Files s-l500.jpg
Last edited by ateamscoobymobile; October 08th 2018 7:42 am.
Re: heater and electrics [Re: ateamscoobymobile] #741383
October 08th 2018 9:43 am
October 08th 2018 9:43 am
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,274
Texas, under the A/C
Rusty_Pancelode Offline
Rust N Dents
Rusty_Pancelode  Offline
Rust N Dents
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,274
Texas, under the A/C
Sounds to me like this:

Issue 1:
Heater control valve is screwed up, stuck closed, or the heater core has been bypassed due to a leak.
(heater cores can be a bear to change on our vans.)

Issue 2:
It could be a bad ground, but I'd have to look at a wiring diagram to figure that one out.
I'd find any common grounding points, then bypass them to see if the problems stop.

Issue 3:
Use the manual with the wiring diagram in it (that you bought from Issue 2 lol) to find the color designations to the wires.

That would be how I would approach your issues.

(I love the wire on the ash tray starting trick lol)


[Linked Image]
Re: heater and electrics [Re: ateamscoobymobile] #741586
October 14th 2018 9:05 pm
October 14th 2018 9:05 pm
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 5
ne
B
boxcar Offline
stranger
boxcar  Offline
stranger
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Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 5
ne
adding to RustyPancelode suggestions on issue 1:
If you have A/C you could also have a vacuum leak issue or a blend door malfunction.

Re: heater and electrics [Re: ateamscoobymobile] #741607
October 15th 2018 9:50 am
October 15th 2018 9:50 am
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 316
NY
J
jcd74 Offline
enthusiast
jcd74  Offline
enthusiast
J
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 316
NY
Next time the turn signals act up, push your hazard switch in, pull out touch the brakes and lightly push the hazard switch in till the indicator lamp turns off. Change the directional switch. The extra wires for the ignition are bulb test, one ground and one hot in crank.


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