I have attached the instructions from the Scarebird kit, so I will just add what I did to mine to get everything to work. 1. Make sure you have a lug stud tool, which I put the part number for above. 2. Replace your old brakes nuts/bolts with grade 8 hardware. Well worth the $15 at the local hardware store. 3. The hardest and most time consuming part of the whole thing was removing and replacing the lug studs. I used the below harbor freight tool to do it. Also recommend this tool for just about everything, I have used it countless times. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html 4. See attached pictures as well.
Last edited by kookylukey; October 03rd 2018 8:24 am.
Re: How To Convert Drum Brakes to Disc | 68-74 Second Gen
#741183 October 03rd 2018 8:25 amOctober 03rd 2018 8:25 am
Here are the instructions in text format as well, in case of download problems.
1968-74 Ford ½ and ¾ ton Van Front Disc brake conversion 1. Crack front wheel nuts loose, chock up rear wheels. Jack up front end of car, support outer control arms with jackstands. Put a few drops of penetrant oil such as Kano Lab’s AeroKroil on brakeline nuts where they screw into rubber lines. Remove front wheels, drum/hub assembly. 2. Take drum/hub assembly and remove drum by pressing out and discarding studs. Use a swedge cutter if possible. Clean off wheel surface and register with wire wheel or beadblaster. 3. For ¾ ton only - machine outer edge of hub flange to fit inside rotor with about 0.030” loose fit. Open up center hole of rotor to 3.555” to clear hub. 4. Replace studs with ¼” longer or more studs. Best approach is to use an ARP or Moser stud and cut down to length. NAPA Balkamp 641-1112 may work with both apps., but make sure studs are threaded enough 5. Disconnect brake flexible line at frame by unscrewing hardline nut with flare wrench, then removing nut. Undo and remove drum retaining bolts. Remove drum backing plate, hose and all drum hardware in one assembly. Clean off spindle assembly well. 6. Place adapter plate over spindle with caliper bolt retaining nut welds facing inward, and caliper opening to the front. Make sure no dirt is lodged between spindle and plate. 7. Verify that rotor lays flat against hub. Rotors may need stud holes drilled 5/8” to clear stud knurls. 8. Clean and repack wheel bearings. Install new seal. Assemble hub onto spindle, tighten outer nut to spec, then secure with keeper, new cotter pin and dustcap. 9. Place rotor onto hub, and run two or three lugnuts down finger tight to retain rotor. Wipe down rotor with alcohol, lacquer thinner or other cleaner. 10. Wash hands! Rotor must be squeaky clean. 11. Slide assembly into caliper bracket, bleed screw up. We recommend buying loaded calipers. Tighten caliper bolts to 35 foot-pounds. Check fitment and rotate rotor to check clearance. Install flex lines. 12. 1968-74 drum masters are the same – only difference is manual vs. power. If they lack a residual pressure valve then they should be sufficient to stop the van. 1975-79 E100 masters are disc only, and may bolt in place of the drum master. Plumb in an adjustable proportion valve in the line going to the rear cylinders, or use a disc proportioning valve if rears suffer from excessive lockup in panic stops. 13. Bench bleed disc master cylinder. Mount MC on car, then gravity bleed entire system first to eliminate most of the air, then pump bleed and test, otherwise your distribution block may jam from a pressure imbalance. 14. Replace wheels, install lug nuts, lower car and torque nuts to spec. Test drive carefully- no hard stops, a series of 30 smooth stops from 30 mph, with a 30 second cooling period between stops will bed in the pads properly. Let cool for an hour after finished bedding.