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Re: idler arm washers
nikothenomad #741155 October 02nd 2018 12:36 pm
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I've been relatively happy with black gloss rattlecan appliance epoxy from rustoleum or the ACE branded one, though they might be the same. No primer needed and the directions say not to use any.

Ospho is great as is it converts the rust, lifts paint above rust but paint on healthy steel just has its gloss removed. the surface whether bare steel, converted steel or painted steel, after 24 hours, is etched and ready for paint. There might be some white powder to brush off before painting. Ospho is also sold at ACE hardware, aboutr 15$ a quart

I'd be fearful trying to press out 31 year old control arm bushings, based on how hard I had to pull the lever on the 20 ton hydraulic press to seat the new ones. I kept thinking something was not right, but there was no choice but to keep going at that point.

Re: idler arm washers
nikothenomad #741156 October 02nd 2018 12:42 pm
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Ha, so true! With a little creativity and some pieces of pvc pipe cut to different widths did the trick for pushing out the bushings with little to no effort on the ratchet end. However..... it was only the bushings and the inner metal. The outer metal seems to be quite permanently attached to the control arms which means that shaft and washers are still in the darn thing.

I'm sure I can get the outer metal piece out however I am concerned about what may be involved in the process and that when I do free it from its weld to the arm it may have changed the size of the hole opening too much for the new bushings to fit properly.

Still investigating my options and since I am not in a position to have to be in a hurry just having fun playing around.

I figure there is always the option of new control arms so I might as well see what I can do with these just for fun.


Nicole
1988 Dodge B250 5.9l 360 Ram CamperVan / 727 Tranny / Rochester Quadrajet Carb
www.nikothenomad.blogspot.com
Re: idler arm washers
nikothenomad #741170 October 02nd 2018 8:12 pm
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Ah, ha! I've got access to air hammer in addition to the air gun I've been using. So, will try that tomorrow on the outer metal shells.


Nicole
1988 Dodge B250 5.9l 360 Ram CamperVan / 727 Tranny / Rochester Quadrajet Carb
www.nikothenomad.blogspot.com
Re: idler arm washers
nikothenomad #741175 October 03rd 2018 12:39 am
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Just an FYI, if you were to get the energy suspension brand polyurethane bushings, you are supposed to reuse the shell casing of the original bushing.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-5-3110r/overview/make/dodge/model/b250

I scored the outer flanged portion of the casing with a dremel, then ran a hacksaw blade in that score line across the interior to the other end and then used a punch with one swing of the hammer, and the outer casing fell out.

I have used the energy suspension strut rod bushings, and like them, I also replaced many torn TRE boots and such with energy suspension brand boots.

If I ever need to do control arm bushings again I'd likely go with them.

i used Moogs.

And you likely already know this, but on the bolts for the lower control arms do not fully tighten them until you take the van off the jacks and its weight is back on the suspension. if you crank them home with suspension suspended, then the teeth will dig in and twist the rubber in the middle of the bushing way more, and they will not last long.




Last edited by wrcsixeight; October 03rd 2018 12:43 am.
Re: idler arm washers
nikothenomad #741179 October 03rd 2018 8:14 am
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Yes, I had read about energy suspension bushings and re-using the original metal but thought I'd go fresh for all with the Moogs as I wasn't sure of the condition of the metal parts. We'll see how it goes.

This round is a learning experience and I have definitely learned a lot. Reminds me of the first coil spring I replaced - something like four days and the second just an hour or so.

If for some reason I have troubles with the moogs any future replacements will be a more direct run. Not that I want the moogs to not serve me well but just in case the energy suspension ones are on the back burner.

I am glad that you reminded me of not tightening things until I weight the teeth. I had seen that and have been trying to keep it all in my memory and have it written down on my list too. Would hate to mess things up after all of the work.

I am definitely taking my time with this project. Plenty of time to mess around and experiment and have only removed one from the car so far. Once I figure it all out will remove the other three and get to cranking.

By the way, my fsm has me confused on if all other suspension parts (like idler arms) should be torqued with weight on or off the wheels. Thoughts? I thought I remembered the guy who did them before did all of that before he weighted the wheels but then since they didn't last so long wondered if that was correct.


Nicole
1988 Dodge B250 5.9l 360 Ram CamperVan / 727 Tranny / Rochester Quadrajet Carb
www.nikothenomad.blogspot.com
Re: idler arm washers
nikothenomad #741188 October 03rd 2018 12:29 pm
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Sure would be a whole other ball game if I was able to get the shaft out but I still don't know if I need to keep those washers that seem to be unique to my unit. I have not seen them on any other unit that anyone else has worked on in the internet photos or videos that I have watched. So, as for scoring the outer casing and running a blade through the hole, not going to happen with that shaft still in there.

What also isn't going to happen is that casing budging with the air hammer. Dang! This stuff is locked!


Nicole
1988 Dodge B250 5.9l 360 Ram CamperVan / 727 Tranny / Rochester Quadrajet Carb
www.nikothenomad.blogspot.com
Re: idler arm washers
nikothenomad #741189 October 03rd 2018 1:42 pm
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I think only the LCA's need to be torqued with weight on the suspension.

I heard some groaning about a month after i did mine and had to retorque.

Its been since 2011 but I thought the pivot bar/shaft came out once the rubber was drilled away. Are you working on the UCA with it still in place on the van?


Mine had one washer rattling around on the pivot bar that annoyed me enough I tied it out of the way. I did not return it as I never saw any purpose for it.

Re: idler arm washers
nikothenomad #741197 October 03rd 2018 2:06 pm
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UCA I am working on is off the van.

Pivot Bar (which I have been calling the shaft) has the two washers on it. They are between where the hold down bolts go in the pivot bar and the bushing.

I have no idea why they are there but still hesitate just destroying them which would allow me to more easily take the pivot bar out of the CA. Sounds like you used to have them too but one of yours disappeared and if you say you don't have any on yours now then I assume they are not necessary.

With them still on the bar I cannot remove it as they are too large to squeeze through the holes that remained when I took the bushings out.

If I had the bar out then I could undoubtedly more easily get the rest of the bushing out but I am not committed to trashing the washers just yet.

I was under the impression that both upper and lower control arms had to be torqued only while on the ground.


Nicole
1988 Dodge B250 5.9l 360 Ram CamperVan / 727 Tranny / Rochester Quadrajet Carb
www.nikothenomad.blogspot.com
Re: idler arm washers
nikothenomad #741258 October 04th 2018 12:08 pm
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Well, I've made my decision on the washers. In the instructions that come with my new moogs it says to keep the serated washers and put them on if you have them so I'm gonna put in some more time trying to save them before I give up completely on them.


Nicole
1988 Dodge B250 5.9l 360 Ram CamperVan / 727 Tranny / Rochester Quadrajet Carb
www.nikothenomad.blogspot.com
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