Hello All, I have just acquired a 1996 e-350 econoline with a 5.8l efi engine. I drove it home and along the way it shut off several times but fired right back up and kept on til we got home. After i inspected the engine i found several issues.
First i cannot connect to the computer to pull the codes. i attached the obd11 scanner (actron) and i get a "no link" error. I do have power and ground at the connector as my scan tool turns on but just no link. Any Ideas as to where to start?
Second I found that there is a vacuum tree at the top of the intake manifold that has one of the lines on it not connected to anything but if i put my finger on the hole the engine shuts off. I will add a picture asap of said vacuum tree.
And finally i have a cracked exhaust manifold. So i just need to replace this.
Anyone have any idea as to where the vacuum hose should be connected to? see pic
1996 was still controlled by the EECIV computer, and may or may not have been an OBDII system. Look around the battery for a pyramid shaped plug and a single wire. These are the connectors you need to use to pull codes. See here: http://www.thorssell.net/hbook/eectest.html
That is a pretty big hose to have uncapped. On the bottom of your hood or on the radiator core support bracket there should be a vacuum diagram that shws wht should connect to that uncapped port. If memory serves, that port is either the power brake booster or the thermactor system vacuum supply, but I can't recall which offhand.
So i found the EECIV connector and pulled codes 126, 121 and 654. Not sure what they are yet i will have to do some digging.
I also looked at the vacuum diagram which I am adding below but i cant figure out where that empty connector goes. also a better picture angle that shows 3 red hoses but the diagram shows 2. and 2 Black but the diagram shows 1, i think. Can someone tell me if im wrong or what i might be missing.
OK- the big middle hose is the brake booster hose, and the red hoses are for the thermactor system.
Can you verfify that a hose is conected to your MAP sensor? Do the vent doors in your dash operate when you change from heat to vent to defrost? I am trying to think of all the possible vacuum operated accessories.
Trouble codes-
121- Outside range throttle position sensor (TPS) 126- MAP voltage above spec 654- ? I found 653-Transmission control switch not activated during self test, but I found no 654.
Brand New fuel pressure regulator and yes i hooked up the vacuum line. Didn't know there was a vacuum canister under battery. As soon as i get home i will check. i will also check MAP sensor connection and vent doors. i will also check functionality of the TPS and MAP sensors. Thank you so much. I will be back with results!
one more thing, when i took the air intake system off i saw the following (see pic) was something removed?
ok. I plugged up the open vacuum line and started it up and it wants to run but shuts off. If i just give it a little gas she will stay running. I hooked up the o-scope to the map sensor and it works perfectly. also tested the tps and it works perfectly. how do i clear the codes for the obd1.
i looked under the battery but under the battery tray is the wheelwell. i don't see a canister. there looks to be a cavity in front of the battery tray a little below it. It is like a square opening but nothing in it. could that be where it belongs?
Also checked the vent function on the a/c. It works fine as well.
Where is your MAF sensor? You just moved it out of the way, right? I have some work to get done today, but I will try and trace the vacuum lines on my89 E150 this weekend and tell you where that open fitting hooks to.
To clear the codes just disconnect the battery for about 30 minutes. One thing- the EEC-IV computer has mild adaptive learning. It wil "learn" the condition of the engine and adapt the fuel and spark tables in the programming to fit the condition of the motor with about 12% of the stock settings. It could be your computer is trying to adapt for the huge vacuum leak so when the vacuum leak is plugged the fuel mixture and timing is too far off to let the engine run. Try disconnecting the battery or about 30 minutes, cap the fitting on the intake, then reconnect the battery and try starting it.
I have a MAP sensor but not a MAF sensor. from MAF - 1996This post on a different site it states that my year (96) Came with a MAP sensor but not a MAF sensor. Is it valid?
so i ended up doing some work this weekend on her and it turns out both exhaust manifolds were cracked almost all the way around. When i removed them, whoever worked on this thing before, put them on with no gaskets and you could see all the blow-by on the heads. So i put new gaskets on with new manifolds and new plugs and full tune up. I plugged the hole. And she sounds like a new engine. only thing... she doesn't stay running without giving her a little gas. She fires right up and it seems to have cleared up the rich problem as i'm not seeing the sooty smoke out the back anymore.
When i get home tonight i will clear the codes like you said and i will run it again and check the codes.