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Wiring different interior LED light systems
#732972 February 11th 2018 11:09 pm
Joined: Jul 2008
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Trying to wrap my head around wiring the interior lighting scheme. There will be overhead, under dash, doghouse, cabinet, etc LED lighting. For those who've run several systems, how did you do it? Auxiliary fuse box?

AdSense long
Re: Wiring different interior LED light systems
VCVCSmiley #732973 February 11th 2018 11:48 pm
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Easier to just replace the standard bulbs in their receptacles with LED equivalents. My amp is going to be under the bed ,so I'll be running heavy lines back there and then in addition to the amp , I can power just about anything I want. Only thing is ,that they will be hot switched.

www.superbrightleds.com


Tucson-it's a dry heat...like an oven
Re: Wiring different interior LED light systems
VCVCSmiley #733001 February 12th 2018 7:18 pm
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I can't think of a good reason to have them through the ign switch. Why would you want to need the key on to have lights?

The beauty of LEDs is they don't draw much current. If your van is old enough, there may be a tap on the factory fuse box that can suit your needs. I've run colored LEDs through a controller (for effects), and white LEDs for actually seeing stuff. I double switched the white so I could control it from the front seat of the back. I have also swapped out some of the factory incandescent's for LEDs. On the drawing board are a pair of bed side LEDs in mahogany shades, with dimmers. I also have plans for both white and colored on the underside of my running boards. The white may get tied in with the dome light when the doors open.

Last edited by StanVan; February 12th 2018 7:24 pm.

Einstein, when describing radio said "Wire telegraph is like a very long cat. You pull his tail in NY and he meows in LA. And radio works the same way: you send signals here, they receive them there. The only difference is that there is no cat."
Re: Wiring different interior LED light systems
VCVCSmiley #733052 February 14th 2018 2:46 pm
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I'm going to be doing a big write up on this in a few months. Going to be doing a similar thing with a bunch of electrical accessories I'm adding to a basic cargo van. The LED accent/mood/etc lights will be controlled by switches in the overhead console. Those switches will run to a main relay box that is either at the back of the van, or more likely under the drivers seat. Also, on that relay box, each relay will have a switch that will determine whether or not the circuit is supplied from battery power or ignition power. That way if I determine that any feature isn't hooked up how I like, All I have to do is access the relay box and switch it.

I'm not an electronic guru by any stretch, so I personally won't be the one building this system, but I'll supply all the details as it is being built.


[Linked Image]
Re: Wiring different interior LED light systems
VCVCSmiley #733079 February 15th 2018 2:31 am
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I'm also configuring the same , would like to learn more on deep cell rear storage batteries so if the lighting goes dim and voltage loss occurs, it wont drain the main ignition system . I also want to plan for some LED exterior lights for camping excursions.

Has anyone installed the trucker marker lights on the front cab and rear ? Are they run in a sequence with the wires on the exterior,... or is there a wire passthrough holes in the roof for each marker light?

Re: Wiring different interior LED light systems
VCVCSmiley #733112 February 15th 2018 11:17 pm
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I just braced myself and drilled 15 holes in my roof for cab lights. Each has a wire pass through to complete the wiring in the cab.


"Sin Bin"
1984 Ford Econoline E150 Shorty
Re: Wiring different interior LED light systems
VCVCSmiley #733196 February 18th 2018 12:17 am
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An auxiliary battery can be connected through a relay, one that looks like a starter solenoid, and can be found at RV dealers. When the ignition is on, the aux battery is connected and gets charged. And when the ign is off, the battery can be used and drained, and not affect the main battery. Here's a Google link;

https://www.google.com/search?sourc...-ab..0.18.1243...0j0i131k1.0.Oj9TmoZPGhM

The beauty of LEDs is they don't draw much current.


Einstein, when describing radio said "Wire telegraph is like a very long cat. You pull his tail in NY and he meows in LA. And radio works the same way: you send signals here, they receive them there. The only difference is that there is no cat."
Re: Wiring different interior LED light systems
VCVCSmiley #733204 February 18th 2018 3:03 pm
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Do not goto an RV dealer for an isolating solenoid/relay for Aux battery, unless you like throwing away money and time for inferior products.

This is a very good one:

https://www.amazon.com/Cole-Hersee-...sr=8-5&keywords=cole+hersee+solenoid

These require a trigger circuit to activate. Ideally this circuit would only become live with after the engine runs. If it comes on with the key to run, then the AUX battery will provide some starting current to the engine battery, and the contacts in the solenoid will wear out faster.

Electronics hooked to Aux battery might not appreciate the surges when the starter is disengaged.

There are much cheaper Continuous duty solenoids available. Get one rated for at least 90 amps.

There are dozens of secondary battery isolation methods and products available. Avoid those with large finned heatsinks. Those heatsinks are for the diode which drops voltage and thus current, and greatly slows recharging of secondary battery greatly, and lead acid batteries ALWAYS, prefer to be fully charged. The diode based alternators insure full charge is impossible on the secondary battery due to too little electrical pressure.

BUt most vehicles voltage regulation is not concerned with proper recharging of depleted batteries, they are concerned with not overcharging, and as a resuly, proper battery charging is not only relegated to the back seat, it is dragged behind the vehicle. It takes no less than 3.5 hours to get an 80% charged battery to 100%, no matter how powerful the charging source. Those 3.5 hours assume voltages held in the mid 14's. No vehicle allows this. By all means use the alternator to charge batteries, but never assume it finishes the task of fully charging depleted batteries quickly. It cannot and does not 99% of the time.

A very simple method requiring no activation circuit is this product. When it sees battery charging voltages on starter battery then it parallels batteries.

https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-RB-...mp;psc=1&refRID=R7HFXBVG13Y2M9KFCFFV

They sell bidirectional units too. These parallel batteries when either battery sees charging voltages. Avoid bi directional units when there are solar panels involved. The engine battery should never require any of the solar wattage, and some of that solar wattage will be consumed simply holding the electromagnets contacts together.




Re: Wiring different interior LED light systems
VCVCSmiley #733226 February 18th 2018 11:28 pm
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Or, you could go to the Google link I provided and get one (also from Amazon) for about $15.00. And yes, it needs a "trigger", and a simple switched source (from the ignition key) does nicely. The problem with sensing devices is that they can (not will, but can) go bad and drain the battery. I prefer to rely on a more mechanical way to get power. And most switched power sources (except the coil and starter solenoid) deactivate when the starter is engaged. This is why your radio cuts out when you twist the key.

https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGP3...mp;psc=1&refRID=F3AXNPK13MS50B6KAXCT

The reason I mentioned an RV dealer was for a better way to describe the device. I know all too well that when you walk in to an RV or boat store, you'll pay at least twice as much.

Last edited by StanVan; February 18th 2018 11:35 pm.

Einstein, when describing radio said "Wire telegraph is like a very long cat. You pull his tail in NY and he meows in LA. And radio works the same way: you send signals here, they receive them there. The only difference is that there is no cat."
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