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MOPAR ALTERNATOR. Single VS Dual fields #272806
March 16th 2009 9:03 pm
March 16th 2009 9:03 pm
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 279
seville, ohio, usa
Clover Offline OP
enthusiast
Clover  Offline OP
enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 279
seville, ohio, usa
there was some confusion for me regarding how to hook up my "dual field" alternator after upgrading the "mechanical" alternator regulator to the "solid-state" electronic alternator regulator on my 68 dodge a100... this should help anyone what has questions.

"Chrysler first introduced their "new" aluminum lightweight alternators with the 1962 model year. From 1962-69, the alternator was part of a charging system which used a mechanical type of voltage regulator (the small rectangular style.) This regulator used mechanical points (similar to the points on a distributor,) which would open and close to help regulate the charging system voltage. This system uses one field wire (usually green in color) and is often called a "single field" system. The type of alternator used with this system can be easily identified by looking at the back. It is often referred to as a "roundback" style.

In 1970, Chrysler changed to an electronically regulated charging system. This system can be easily identified by the flat, square voltage regulator with a triangular plug on it. This is a much better, more reliable system that will keep the battery voltage more stable and is highly recommended for electronic ignition setups and aftermarket stereos/electronics, etc. This system uses two field wires and is often called a "double field" system. The type of alternator used with this system can be easily identified by looking at the back. It is often referred to as a "squareback" style. The spades for the field wires can be seen at the 2 o'clock and the 4 o'clock positions with the letters "FLD" next to them. Either wire can be hooked up to either field terminal (the origional green wire that goes to the alternator regulator or a Key'd 12v ignition source), it makes no difference.

Dual field alternators can also be used for single field applications if necessary by grounding one of the field wires. This will, in effect, turn the alternator into a single field unit. If you have the pre 1970 mechanical charging system and are not overly concerned with details of originality, we recommend converting to the newer electronic system."

natetheskate writes:

The green wire, (origional FIELD wire) as you mentioned, goes to one of the terminal. The other field terminal must have a 12V keyed ignition source go to it. You can tap into the ignition wire to the ballast resistor..either the pink or red wire (im pretty sure its the SINGLE RED WIRE). the keyed source is the one thats on the "run" circuit, NOT the one on the "START" circuit ((which is dual wired on ballast to give momentary full power to coil for starting)). you should double check your wiring first.

Two wires come off the ignition switch. The red one and the pink one. The red wire is part of the "RUN" circuit which supplies power to the ballast resistor while the engine is running (12V). The pink wire is part of the "START" circuit which would supply a full 12V to the coil during start-up, hence the double wires at the ballast connector. Once the key is released to the "RUN" position, no power is going through that pink wire from the ignition switch to the best of my knowledge.

Use a test light to double check what I've told you. At the back of the ignition switch you'll see the red wire come off of terminal IGN1 and the pink wire coming off of terminal IGN2. Unplug the connectors at the ballast to test each one in the start and run positions

You want the other field (one connects like stock to the alternator regulator) to have a constant 12V keyed source..so you want to tap into that single red wire that connects to the ballast."


If anyone has any questions, feel free to drop me a line. after weeks of diagrams and schematics and LOTS of help and advice, i about got her about dialed in.. lol

-Clover


Clover
Next Generation Vanners Inc.
North-Central Ohio

...I'd realy like to see a finished van at the end of the tunnel once the fog finaly lifts..
Re: MOPAR ALTERNATOR. Single VS Dual fields [Re: Clover] #446912
February 18th 2011 3:49 pm
February 18th 2011 3:49 pm
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,201
Ohio, USA
HomeBrew Offline
veteran
HomeBrew  Offline
veteran
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,201
Ohio, USA
Thanks Brother! Without your hours and hours of research and hands on help I would have been stuck in this position for a while.

[Linked Image]


My wire job had added confusion due to wiring in the MSD-6AL box.

You should scan and post your modified schematics. ;-)


.-=[NGV]=-.

Re: MOPAR ALTERNATOR. Single VS Dual fields [Re: Clover] #447039
February 19th 2011 2:31 am
February 19th 2011 2:31 am
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 12,027
Fircrest, WA
Reed Offline
Maniac
Reed  Offline
Maniac
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 12,027
Fircrest, WA
[Linked Image]

When the time comes, go ahead and upgrade to the even better Nippondenso style alternator.



Windows- they're what make a van worth owning!
Re: MOPAR ALTERNATOR. Single VS Dual fields [Re: Clover] #478910
July 05th 2011 11:07 pm
July 05th 2011 11:07 pm
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 98
San Francisco, CA
76tradesman Offline
journeyman
76tradesman  Offline
journeyman
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 98
San Francisco, CA
Super useful info. Thanks!


'76 Dodge Tradesman
'69 Dodge Coronet
Re: MOPAR ALTERNATOR. Single VS Dual fields [Re: Clover] #719583
February 04th 2017 12:14 pm
February 04th 2017 12:14 pm
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 335
Tucson,Az.
H
Hasan Ben Sobar Offline
enthusiast
Hasan Ben Sobar  Offline
enthusiast
H
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 335
Tucson,Az.
95 Amp IR alternator. Direct replacement. This is available from Tucson.

[Linked Image]

Last edited by Hasan Ben Sobar; October 15th 2017 6:22 pm.

Tucson-it's a dry heat...like an oven

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