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Re: windshield 94 chevy
phils #625304 July 06th 2013 11:45 pm
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WOW what an ordeal....

Re: windshield 94 chevy
phils #625559 July 08th 2013 5:06 pm
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tell me about it. I picked this Seal up on ebay over hear for 0.01 pence. worth it just incase it can be used. some pictures of the windsheilds and seals would help me a lot catfish

Last edited by phils; July 08th 2013 5:07 pm.

1994 5.7l Chevy G30 LWB & 2001 Landrover Defender 90 Truck Cab


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Re: windshield 94 chevy
phils #625721 July 10th 2013 5:43 am
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while catfish comes back with how he got on below is a post from Chevy Talk forum on how to install a windshield into a Precision WBL 853 seal (i just picked one of these seals up on ebay for 1p)

[Linked Image]

ist a lottery i know but will this work with my 94???

"Completed the windshield install in my 1989 Chevy Van G20

Note I used the Precision WBL 853 rubber molding, which is a removable locking molding (no separate locking bead, the molding locks into itself).

This is how I did it.

Unless you have done this before, it can be confusing as to which groove of the molding goes on the pinch weld, glass, and which part is twisted for locking. The groove that locks the molding goes on the outside. The fine narrow groove will go on the pinch weld and the wide groove whose width is about the thickness of the glass will fit the glass.

1. Prior to installing any part, place masking tape on the outside frame of the windshield. Just the outer most part of the frame where the outer edge of the molding will rest when installed. This is to make it easier to clean up any butyl caulk that will squeeze out after the install.
2. Slip the molding on the pinch weld. (This is not the type of molding like most others where you install it first on the glass and use a rope to pull the molding over the pinch weld to mount the windshield.)
3. At this point the molding outside edge can be easily lifted to allow a bead of Butyl caulking. Fill the cavity under the rubber with Butyl caulking, which will spread out and fully seal the molding to the body, keeping water out from under the windshield molding. Caulk it all the way around. When you install the glass and lock the bead, there should be enough caulking that a small amount will squeeze out over the masking tape. Butyl is very sticky, stringy and very messy. Clean up Butyl caulking with Mineral spirit.
4. Place the windshield in the bottom molding groove and center it while pushing it down. The top of the glass will not go into the groove easily. By slapping the glass with your palm (hand full open) and in a downward directions, the glass will go down as much as possible. Do not apply any point pressure on the glass as it will probably break.
5. Now start at one of the top corners and with a bone tool force the rubber lip from the inside, out and over the glass. I used a couple of my plastic trim tools to do this along with some soapy water in a spray bottle, which will reduce the chance of damage to the rubber. Do this on both upper corners. This will be the hardest part of the job. Take your time and be patient and it will go in. If you become frustrated take a break, calm down and come back later. Don’t risk breaking the glass. Finish seating the glass at the top between the top corners.
6. Now while on the outside of the vehicle, carefully pry up the inner edge of the locking bead (the glass causes it to fold in and under the outer edge) while pushing down on the outer locking beam. The out edge of the lock will slip under the inner edge of the lock and lock in place. To make it lock easier, use soapy water in a spray bottle. Once you started to lock the molding it does not want to stay in place, so you will have to apply pressure while continuing to push the rest of the outer locking edge into the inner locking edge. To lock the bead will take some time, but go slowly and you will get there. As you are locking the bead, you will have more butyl squeeze out. Clean it up as you go, because sooner or later some part of your body will stick to it and make a mess. Mineral spirit works well to clean off the Butyl.
7. After locking the molding in place, peal back the masking tape carefully as the part of the tape under the outer edge of the molding may rip off and make it more difficult to remove.
8. That’s it. Clean up and you are done.
Jim
'89 G20 5.7L"



1994 5.7l Chevy G30 LWB & 2001 Landrover Defender 90 Truck Cab


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Re: windshield 94 chevy
phils #625875 July 11th 2013 6:22 am
Joined: Sep 2005
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carpal tunnel
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It's in!!!
The old gasket worked fine. Some pics:
The glass slide into the gasket only requiring a little help snapping into place. Here's the locking strip before it was locked in.
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
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And the locking strip after it was snapped into place all the way around.
[Linked Image]
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The installer used just a little sealer behind the gasket along the top edge only and then used a very thin line of sealer between the glass and the gasket all around.
The windshield is for a late 70s van. He wrote up the job as a 1978 Chevy van.
[Linked Image]

Re: windshield 94 chevy
phils #625878 July 11th 2013 6:33 am
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carpal tunnel
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Phils, did you note that my new windshield glass part number and your windshield seal part number match? laugh

Last edited by CatFish; July 11th 2013 6:34 am. Reason: ksfs
Re: windshield 94 chevy
phils #625880 July 11th 2013 8:04 am
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ohhh congrats Catfish, hope mines goes as well.


1994 5.7l Chevy G30 LWB & 2001 Landrover Defender 90 Truck Cab


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Re: windshield 94 chevy
phils #625883 July 11th 2013 8:43 am
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yes i did, interesting. going home to check my seal now?


1994 5.7l Chevy G30 LWB & 2001 Landrover Defender 90 Truck Cab


[Linked Image]
Re: windshield 94 chevy
phils #628443 July 28th 2013 5:19 pm
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I literally went through this exact same entire ordeal. No joke- a 3 week process...

I had 6 visits from Safelite. I even queried about the locking gasket and if I needed to get a new one, or if they bring that, etc.

Long story short

First guy came out and installed the window with just glue, and put a tiny trim ring around that left a 3/4"x 1" gap in the pinch weld to collect water and debris.

first guy came back to replace window, with locking gasket, took him literally two days- all day doing it to get it in.

Third guy came out with new windshield, generic NOT Pilkington like the first (waves in glass, etc) because the first guy scratched the window a bunch tooling it into the seal. Brought the wrong window with mirror mount.

Fourth guy came out the following week with "correct" window, which was also a cheap generic- even pointed out the flaws and wavy glares in it. Recommended I go to their main shop to see if they can buff the OEM Pilkington window that was scratched.

Shop manager came out and agreed while taking note of the window trim scratched from previous installer (who is now fired), ended up going out to their shop to have window buffed- got free can of glass cleaner.

Unbelievable.

The guy who removed the window was actually very familiar with that locking style saying they switched later to those instead of glue in because they sealed tighter and better than the glued ones. The one piece locking strip was sealed a bit to in corners and what not in the end, but after I fixed the pinch weld and corrosion, it looks a lot better.


[Linked Image]
Re: windshield 94 chevy
phils #628600 July 29th 2013 7:11 am
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carpal tunnel
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I tested mine with a water hose and it seemed water tight. Of course you can never tell til it's actually rained on.
I was lucky that I finally found a guy who had some experience with the gasket before any damage was done.
Oh yeah, I got a free can of cleaner too! Best glass cleaner I ever used.
[Linked Image]

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