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Re: Have An Idiot Light Lit
Cherry #565382 May 29th 2012 1:08 pm
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Originally Posted by Cherry
What kills me about the temperature gauge is that it'll go from about half way to just buried in the red and then be fine.


How quickly does this happen?

I think it should be mentioned that the gauge or temp sender could be faulty.

I don't know about Ford, but on mine if I ground the temp sender wire the gauge will shoot to the red. Perhaps the sender wire is randomly grounding out on something.

Also there has been a lot of talk on other automotive forums about the very dubious quality of Thermostats coming from overseas these days.

If indeed the engine is running in the red zone, this needs to be remedied quickly as blowing a head gasket is even less fun than troubleshooting why it is overheating.

Does the heater work, if not this gives more credence to Air in the system.

Re: Have An Idiot Light Lit
Cherry #565389 May 29th 2012 1:32 pm
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If the gauge or sending unit is faulty, it may just be a bad readout. If the system is actually seriously overheating you should see some other indications of it, such as coolant coming out of the radiator cap over flow. And the thermostat may be blocked or not operating properly.

If you do need a new radiator, I have a place in East Bridgewater Ma that sells new Modines at 40% off list. Meant to give you a businees card for them last weekend and forgot.

Re: Have An Idiot Light Lit
Cherry #565398 May 29th 2012 2:27 pm
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We had the same issue with our temperature gauge on a '99 E-150, it just sat in Normal and then went beyond the red withing seconds.

If it was an air pocket, the temperature gauge sensor has nothing to sensor anymore, and will eventually go down but not up.

We opened the hood, did not notice the engine being "warmer" than normal (you know, this wall of heat that hits you). Turned on heater which did not lower temperature gauge at all.

Went to AutoZone, they loan a pressure test system for free. Pressure tested the coolant system, passed.

Drove the van back home, shop charged $25 for redoing the wired from the temperature sensor (where corroded).

Last edited by BigGreen; May 29th 2012 2:28 pm.

Do not touch a running system!
Re: Have An Idiot Light Lit
BigGreen #565414 May 29th 2012 4:14 pm
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Originally Posted by BigGreen


If it was an air pocket, the temperature gauge sensor has nothing to sensor anymore, and will eventually go down but not up.
.


Sorry big green any car /truck/van I ever had when there was a air pocket the temp gauge went up and down as ether the liquid or air was hitting the temp sender.

Last edited by Astro; May 31st 2012 9:31 am.

The only Stephentown on earth.
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but that 8hr wait to go home is a bitch.
No matter how little I do,
I always feel I could do less.
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Re: Have An Idiot Light Lit
Cherry #565446 May 29th 2012 7:50 pm
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Even low mileage radiators can clog up.Some times worse because the fluids do not move at all.
Sometimes setting for long periods of time is harder on an engine then running them hard.
electrolysis fancy word for corrosion cause by different chemicals in the same area.Still happens whether you drive it or not.
Sorry as many engine I have dropped in, water pumps, radiators I have installed over the years.I have never gotten an air bubble.
The fluctuating temps is telling you some thing needs to be fixed.
Pull the dog house cover and squirt the bolts down that hold the EGR valve on with your choice of penetrating oil.
Breaking one of these bolts off in the intake can suck.
The EGR valve is a round flattened bell shaped device at the rear of the carb.

......Wookee






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Re: Have An Idiot Light Lit
wookee #565448 May 29th 2012 8:14 pm
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About the over heating...from what you said the needle is doing on the gauge...sounds to be a bad sending unit...

try buying a cheap after market temp gauge (''sunpro'' are 20$ at most auto parts stores),,,this will tell you for sure what the motor is running at ...GOOD LUCK


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Re: Have An Idiot Light Lit
SHAGGON_VAGGON #565451 May 29th 2012 8:46 pm
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I have no clue about the mechanics of things (as some who were at Lost can attest too :)) but the fact that it overheated quickly after you started driving (as in after 20 minutes driving) and then didn't overheat anymore although we drove for a couple of hours could point to gauge fail I'd say. But you know how much my opinion is worth :p


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Re: Have An Idiot Light Lit
Cherry #565650 May 30th 2012 7:17 pm
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Talked to Fred last night about using his Code Reader to diagnose troubles with your van. His son Josh has a 1991 E-150 Ford Van with a 302 V8 EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) engine, and my van is a 1989 Ford E-150 with a 300 6-cyl EFI, and Fred says that his reader will hook up to both. My other van is a 1975 E-250 with a 351 V-8 carburated engine, similar to yours, and the reader will probably not hook up to it, but the electronics and computer for yours are 12 years newer and MAY hook up to it. Needs a little further research.

Meanwhile, the address for RC Truck sales (Who have new Modine Radiators in stock for 40% of of list)is:
RC Truck Sales
350 Thacher St.
E. Bridgewater, MA
508-588-8783

And I agree with Wookie. I've purchased radiators from these people, and water pumps, and installed them in four different Ford Vans, a Camaro, and a Subaru wagon over the years, and NEVER had a problem with an air bubble!

BTW, if you DO need a new radiator, it will probably be a larger capacity one than a stock E-250 van, due to the extra weight of the camper body. NO problem, they've probably got one in stock!

Re: Have An Idiot Light Lit
Cherry #565705 May 30th 2012 11:48 pm
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All you need to pull the codes is a piece of wire....

See how to do it HERE


Windows- they're what make a van worth owning!
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