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That’s an amazing score for $30. Are you not going to run the one you painted?

Looks like the dodge has those triple angled windows. I bet it’s a cool van

I’ve been working on a cabinet for the van that holds one of my coolers and my electronics in a separate cubby. I am also going to have a smaller set of upper cabinets and an upper wood valance. I thought about incorporating some wood spindles if the height was right to connect them together. Scored a set from my club mate, he happened to have a big bundle of them. I’m not all that experienced when it comes to wood working but should come out pretty good.


I’ll trim the square portions down to fit, the turned portion is maybe 14-15”

Cool!

That filter may actually be a filter for keeping oil vapors out of the brake booster, or a one-way valve depending on what you've got. Some vans even have both.

Since the brake booster is full of vacuum, once the engine shuts off, atmospheric pressure pushes any fumes in the manifold into the booster, where the rubber parts can be attacked over time.

You could attach a hand operated vacuum pump to the booster to see if it holds vacuum.

As for substantial vacuum leaks in out of the obvious places, try the charcoal evaporative canisters and their hoses. Those hoses frequently turn mushy and split wide open. The master canister (with the vacuum actuator on top) has a rubber diaphragm inside which can rupture, causing a very substantial vacuum leak. When you attach a hand vacuum pump to that actuator, it should hold vacuum.

Among my favorite stealth failures on vintage vans is the fuel tank cap. It has a breather valve built in. Driving at highway speeds, you develop maximum vacuum from the fuel pump. If the breather valve in the cap fails, you will starve the carb for fuel, and can literally collapse a tank. All you need to do to eliminate that as a culprit is to try opening the cap when you've got a stall and listen for a "whoosh" of incoming air to replace the built up vacuum. It's possible to drive with the cap partially cracked open too, though that does have some potential safety issues.

me too

Yes they will interchange. The differences are minor. The exterior handle should be the black plastic one on the 92, it's also a little longer so it has 1 different mounting hole. You can put the original style on but you have to redo a hole. The latch style is different, (easier to put newer door on an old body). The older basically puts a peg into a hole but the newer clamps onto a hook. It may be possible to swap over all those parts. I think the door to door latch is slightly different also. Get the pair if you can. That's what I've always done.

Welcome! Glad you've joined us.

Thanks Jim.

Since you're seeing this during heavy acceleration, have you checked the throttle kick down adjustment? It's the sliding rod which couples the throttle mechanism to the transmission. It's notorious for causing such issues. It adjusts fluid pressure in the transmission, so it's a big deal.

Do you have a service manual? The adjustment is described in the section on transmissions. I could dig up the adjustment procedure if you don't have it.

Also, the kick down rod should be spring loaded at both ends; be sure the springs aren't missing.

While you're in that area, before making the kick down adjustment, make sure that when you push the accelerator pedal to the flood that the butterflies are actually opening fully. If not, you can adjust the opening via the threaded rod which couples the accelerator pedal to the throttle mechanism on the carb.

Probably more like Sitting Bull.

I think I knew her back in the day.

No, just the "furnace".

That Hendrix album is legendary (even on 8-track).

I've never owned an 8-track, but my parents had a few tapes and players.
I always thought it was the absolute worst way you could listen to music.
You don't get to accurately select the songs...
You can't easily replay the songs...
You lose good tapes to dirty pinch rollers way too easily...
Etc... etc...
The only thing I liked about them was their portability, but I came from the world of cassettes, so...

If the van is as nice as it claims to be, the price isn't astronomically high for a van like that.
If I could get it for $12,000 I'd probably buy it myself, but I wouldn't buy it at all unless I was planning to show it.
I'd pay him the full $15k if the girl came with it (I'd remove the tacky socks myself). LOL

The A/C issue depends on what it needs to get it working.
Sometimes there's a refrigerant leak, sometimes there's a compressor or compressor clutch failure.
I can't imagine that it would be impossible to fix, but some vehicle specific parts can be hard to come by.
It could cost anywhere from $250 to $1500 and up to get it working again.

Not since we moved away from there.

Yeah, I think so.
Someone said something about Keystones on Chevys.

I agree. My son and I nearly got hit by a Nissan Leaf because we couldn't hear it coming around a corner at the library last year.

Thanks frscke1, rebuilt dist came with the ecm and resistor, we put a brand new coil in too. Still no spark. Fusible link? I should mention that it died while going down the road after a full throttle pass. Everything else works, ie starter motor, lights, radio heater fan, etc, etc. Can you tell me where the ground strap is on both ends? Just stumped by this, also there seems to be no OBD plug in this unit. There is quite a mish mosh of wiring under the column. Have this van for 10 years never failed to start before, hate to junk it. So many new parts, 82k miles and body and interior in great shape. My worry is fix this and what next.

Glad it stayed with a vanner. Nice van. Keep us posted with the build.

The speed sensor doesnt set off the ABS light. 2 different systems ... speed sensors go off and the red BRAKE light comes on. If the ABS light is on you have different problems.

The reason I know this is my brake light has been on for 28 yrs cause when they made it a 4X4 they didnt get a wheel hub with speed sensors on them. The computer keeps lookin for it.

I get a ABS light when Im on and off the brake ped alot after highway drivin and the ABS system doesnt get to repressurize quickly enough. The Allocation bar under the brake res .... it helps the ABS pulse the wheel pads it Allocates which wheel needs brake and which one is slipppin..... this is weakest part of the ABS sys.

Not looking good with the Covid comming on!

hey screemer; duct tape; WD40 and " the floor jack "

Time capsule. So cool so retro.

bigbongo: missed it by a day Bro; posted 22nd