Mopar van enthusiasts and mopar powered RVs are apples and oranges. Neither of those are vans so it’s a tougher sell here. Not they aren’t appreciated however but you just may not get much attention. Have you had any local interest?

That looks awesome brother.

Amazing ride you have there!

Yup, and GeneralBob's van is a 1977.

I have a spare one with a blue center that I grabbed from a junkyard last year. It's not for sale, though.

They pop up on eBay from time to time but usually don't sell cheap.

I put a oil pan gasket on my 77 shorty with a 350 in it , no problem , came off without unbolting anything except the flywheel cover , used A one piece gasket with was a little hard to get on but it came with longer bolts which helped !

looking awesome!

Didn't a 66 have a curved windshield? I could be wrong. Maybe that's 67?

Just put a set on my 84 Ford. LOVE them !!! They are getting a little rare !!!

Most seats attach just below the slide mech. An Aluminum adaptor plate should make the seat you want attach to your floor and/or swivel.

https://www.vanning.com/threads/ubb...l-seats-anyone-seen-them.html#Post754790

I've pulled the entire scroll compressor system plus brackets off of 80s vintage salvage yard B vans. It's not as difficult as you might think. Surprisingly few parts, and most are quite accessible. Getting the dual v-belts loosened up and out of the way was my biggest challenge.

I had one of those clutch bearings freeze up on my vans RV2 compressor. It spun the compressor (which requires 15 HP for an RV2!) for who knows how long. Fortunately I don't drive it much.

Your vintage of scroll compressor should take about 8 HP, so the fact your belts shredded would lead me to believe your compressor has failed severely and locked up internally, in addition to the clutch bearing failure.

If you do pull it, be sure you thoroughly clean the hose fittings beforehand so no dirt can drop into the hoses, and cover them with plastic bags with rubber bands or wire ties right away just to be sure. And have new O-rings, manifold seals, and a new drier on hand. You should always replace the drier anytime you open up a system. The seals and O-rings are considered one-time use.

You won't want to leave much time between installing the new drier and pumping the system down to a hard vacuum. That tiny bit of moisture in the air can do nasty things inside an AC system, even with a new drier in place. If you need to have a shop do your recharge, schedule it with them well in advance so you're not left hanging for weeks.

My 81 B250 Sportsman Custom has the large plastic tank.

One thing to consider which hasn't been brought up among all the really great advice so far is that the 30+ gallon tank occupies space where the rear anti-sway bar would fit, so you can't run a stock rear anti-sway bar with the large tanks.

The large tank extends all the way up to the frame crossmember over the rear differential. It is also a much deeper tank. The hump on the bottom which Astrocreep66 mentioned is nominally where the pickup tube filter sock should end up.

Also, I found that the automotive parts chain called Auto Value has the 2" tank filler hose. I just replaced mine this fall. It's $25 per foot, but it's Gates hose; good to go!

If you replace the small breather hose running parallel to the filler hose, be *really* careful you don't kink it where it feeds through the frame. The fuel will spit back out at you during fill ups and shut off the gas station pump if that hose is obstructed!

BTW, if you live in a really rough neighborhood, I've heard of kids stabbing the plastic tanks with a screwdriver to steal gasoline...