Mopar van enthusiasts and mopar powered RVs are apples and oranges. Neither of those are vans so it’s a tougher sell here. Not they aren’t appreciated however but you just may not get much attention. Have you had any local interest?
This may be a long shot, but curiosity is getting the better of me.
The van my wife and I redid was somebody's baby at one point.
When we started cleaning away the layers of ratty black paint we came across the hand lettered name "Warsaw Express" with some beautiful pinstriping all done by a gentleman named Dick Bird from the Minneapolis area. We purchased the van in Duluth Minnesota so I would assume it was built and lived in that area, North woods are. Minnesota, Wisconsin maybe... Unfortunately the lettering and striping was all too far gone to restore. I was able to get a chalk rubbing of it.
Just curious if anyone out there had ever heard of this van? I know back in the day there were tons of personalized vans out and about but the fact that this one still had a mildy visible name on it gives me hope that someone may recognize it.
I unhooked it all and put a hand choke on my 1977 Chevy 350 , even took the manifold choke out and put in a spacer ! The hardest part of the valve cover gaskets was unbolting all the ac compressor and mounting plates to be able to get to the left side valve cover , it’s done now ! Thank GOD !
I put a oil pan gasket on my 77 shorty with a 350 in it , no problem , came off without unbolting anything except the flywheel cover , used A one piece gasket with was a little hard to get on but it came with longer bolts which helped !
SgtMopar, you still Vannin? we have a small group of Vanners in the area (Beaufort, Mt Pleasant, Johns Island, Savannah) and we regularly host them here at the house in Beaufort for a Fire and some debauchery. shoot me a message if you ever want to head down or next time you come to the Drive in,
That sure sounds like fuel system type symptoms. Be sure to have her release the fuel cap next time it happens, then while it's loose try to restart without a lot of pumping on the acellerator pedal - you don't want it to flood.
There's an inline filter on many vans aside from the filter sock on the tank pickup. Yours is much more recent vintage than mine, but the filters with three nipples are commonly used on these to reduce vapor lock. They can fill up with water. Mine is right at the front of the engine, where the fuel lines jump from the frame extension to the engine.
There is also a small sintered bronze fuel strainer in many carburetors, right where the fuel line enters the carb. Since yours does start up and run, that's not so likely a culprit, but be aware that it may be there.
Since it sounds like your van is driven a lot, I didn't bring it up, but fuel tanks can fill up with water, especially if the tanks aren't kept full. Short of pulling and draining a tank, dry-gas fuel additive or see through inline fuel filters are about the only simple way to identify and deal with that possibility.
There's always the possibility your fuel pump could be failing, or the engine could be flooding too, like if the choke linkage is getting stuck or gradually closing. We've also had a few spark coils fail, which tends to occur as heat builds up.
Mine has the throttle body style fuel injection. And it gets driven daily when it's acting right. She's been getting a ride to work and being stubborn about taking it for a test drive, I did crack the gas cap open about a quarter turn to see if it does it next time she tries it. I'm glad you pointed out the coil that had slipped my mind, that will be my next check if this loose gas cap doesn't produce favorable results. It's been a good van for us but I suppose after 21 years it is due for love even if the miles are kind of low for a 98.
Wedgy, I'm not sure that the same policies would apply in your area as where I live in SE Michigan, but we had a nuisance blight officer harass us once when my son was working on his racing Cutlass Supreme.
Now, I'm in the last house at the very edge of the township limits, the car was about 100 feet back from the road, and we have a privacy fence... someone had a real hard on over that car!
My son spoke with a State Trooper he knows, who told him to buy a cheap car cover and put it on the immobile vehicle. As long as it's covered, it doesn't even need to be registered/plated! -Bingo!
And he said if the blight officer ever dared to walk up onto our property, to press charges against him for trespassing.
I've pulled the entire scroll compressor system plus brackets off of 80s vintage salvage yard B vans. It's not as difficult as you might think. Surprisingly few parts, and most are quite accessible. Getting the dual v-belts loosened up and out of the way was my biggest challenge.
I had one of those clutch bearings freeze up on my vans RV2 compressor. It spun the compressor (which requires 15 HP for an RV2!) for who knows how long. Fortunately I don't drive it much.
Your vintage of scroll compressor should take about 8 HP, so the fact your belts shredded would lead me to believe your compressor has failed severely and locked up internally, in addition to the clutch bearing failure.
If you do pull it, be sure you thoroughly clean the hose fittings beforehand so no dirt can drop into the hoses, and cover them with plastic bags with rubber bands or wire ties right away just to be sure. And have new O-rings, manifold seals, and a new drier on hand. You should always replace the drier anytime you open up a system. The seals and O-rings are considered one-time use.
You won't want to leave much time between installing the new drier and pumping the system down to a hard vacuum. That tiny bit of moisture in the air can do nasty things inside an AC system, even with a new drier in place. If you need to have a shop do your recharge, schedule it with them well in advance so you're not left hanging for weeks.
My 81 B250 Sportsman Custom has the large plastic tank.
One thing to consider which hasn't been brought up among all the really great advice so far is that the 30+ gallon tank occupies space where the rear anti-sway bar would fit, so you can't run a stock rear anti-sway bar with the large tanks.
The large tank extends all the way up to the frame crossmember over the rear differential. It is also a much deeper tank. The hump on the bottom which Astrocreep66 mentioned is nominally where the pickup tube filter sock should end up.
Also, I found that the automotive parts chain called Auto Value has the 2" tank filler hose. I just replaced mine this fall. It's $25 per foot, but it's Gates hose; good to go!
If you replace the small breather hose running parallel to the filler hose, be *really* careful you don't kink it where it feeds through the frame. The fuel will spit back out at you during fill ups and shut off the gas station pump if that hose is obstructed!
BTW, if you live in a really rough neighborhood, I've heard of kids stabbing the plastic tanks with a screwdriver to steal gasoline...
When you say "the pin keeps snapping at higher RPMs", what part of the distributor are you talking about? Do you have any pictures? How high in RPMs are you revving?
Is this a single or dual pickup distributor? What brand of distributor cap and rotor are you using? There are premium ones available which may be better in terms of materials and precision of machining.
Do you know if your mechanic has an actual service manual for these vans? The pickup to reluctor adjustment is pretty critical in terms of how narrow a gap you can set up before reluctor teeth start being chipped or snapped off. So far, it sounds like your mechanic is the constant in the equation...
There is supposed to be a cotton wick in the hollow of the distributor shaft, under the rotor, which is to be lubricated periodically with engine oil. Are yours dry? They won't be lubricated right out of rebuild.