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Wasnt this van for sale a yr ago ? then it was only 4K but it looks like he got a flair kit on it now. Well I know that kit didnt cost $3500.

Is that a Union job ?

If he drops the price another $39,000 I'll be able to bid on it.....

I believe that's why, when the UFOs land.....it's always next to some hog farm in Arkansas.....
They just can't locate any intelligent life......

That's beautiful. A teenage wedding means growing up together. It's not always easy but it creates strong bonds and lasting memories.

Thanks CatFish (and to all who replied...I ordered that part)...you are the GM "Van Man".....you should have an office at the GM Heritage Center with a sign on the door that says "VAN MAN" ......LOL

Reach out to Lee7673. Good luck

a quadrate can be an a good mpg carb ( if you have a light foot. the first two barrels are small, smaller than just about any two barrel carb.

A chopped tandem has been done (a Chevy) but didn’t have those tires in the back but it was a dually so had 10 wheels!!!
Never Enough Van by Lee Hatfield, on Flickr

There is also this chopped tandem that was spotted rusting away in a junk yard last year.
Renegade van by Lee Hatfield, on Flickr

I only have Chevys so no help here ...just like the posts ....

Before i went modifying anything, I would find out why your van will not start without bypassing the ignition switch to power the coil during startup. As you have identified, there are two circuits that provide power to the coil. The Start circuit (used during startup) and the run circuit (used during normal operation).

It sounds to me like you have a faulty ignition switch or a bad bulkhead connector or some other fault in the + coil power circuit in the start circuit. This could be a fault in the lean burn computer, or a fault in the wiring between the computer and the coil. Switching to a completely different ignition system may or may not cure your problem.

Again, I would find your current fault before going through the cost and effort to convert to a different ignition system.

That said, to convert to an HEI ignition system you will need a 1973-early 1980s Dodge 318 electronic ignition distributor. Look for one with a vacuum advance pod and only two wires going into the distributor. Try to get one from a truck or van to get a timing advance curve closer to optimal for your application. Go through it and make sure the weight and spring and governor move freely and the vacuum advance pod still holds a vacuum.

The ignition module is just a standard GM HEI ignition module.

I like the Ford E-core coil used on late 1980s through late 1990s factory Ford applications.

Cap, rotor, plugs, wires, can all stay the same.

But try to fix what you have first.

Also, there were some non-lean burn ignition systems that used four wires going to the distributor. There were separate start and run pickup coils in the distributor. You might just have a bad start pickup in the distributor.

Cool, and the big window not so cool

Sold

No doubt. That side window on the running white van is killing me. ( Why ? )

Wedgy = Dicken's Cider = Hilarious ( They would be a Great sponser for any van run )

yes , I wrote to this guy ( its a sticky on this forum). what I got back was to look at the voltage coming to the coil in start and run. He thinks a have low voltage which is causing the problem. Thing is, how do I check that while driving down the road/ parked at the store, etc. do I leave the doghouse off so I have access? And I still have the concern of the original ignition system which, to be honest, leaves a bit to be desired.

Welcome to the site ...'92 isnt old .... '52 is old ...lol

again welcome to the site ..

I have been using what is called “RV” gas (ethanol free) in my older “classics” for years now that have fuel injection, here it’s 89 or 90 octane (one can add few ounces of octane booster…I use Boostane….to bring the octane up to where you want it…..being ethanol free prevents all the fuel system problems with a vehicle that “sits” a lot…..

Im gettin burried in mine.... bring on the back hoe ...lol

215 thru the gate, and another good truck in

I got new front brakes/calipers, rear brakes/cylinders, an OEM master cylinder and still, brakes tighten as I drive, Any ideas on next replacement part? All bleed several times.

Done right for sure. I'm surprised it hasn't sold yet

Hand rail sounds like the plan

Welcome. Look forward to the pics. Congrats on the van.

It could be a combination of things.

Scott is thinking about it maybe running lean.....
The EGR recycles exhaust gases into the combustion process. The recycled exhaust takes the place of some of the clean air entering the cylinder. This effectively richens the the fuel/air mixture by displacing some of the clean air. (It also carbons up everything it touches.)
With the EGR closed the mixture is leaner (has more usable air) and if it's too lean this condition may be causing the pinging, especially on regular or lower octane fuel. It's possible.

Carbon buildup on the pistons can cause pinging as well. It would have to be pretty bad.

It may have fuel pressure or poor injector problems that could be causing a borderline lean condition and those can be easily tested. But this would cause poor running and low power all the time.

Ignition timing (my guess along with the lean running) may be a touch too high unless your guy has checked that already (from what you have told me he's pretty good).
Old van's timing marks are impossible to see/set with a timing light and a lot of shops skip that part. I turn mine to TDC with the engine off (so I can see it), mark a corresponding "new" TDC spot on the lower side of the balancer, attach a temporary pointer (with a brazing rod bolted to a magnet), then I can see it from under the van with a timing light and the engine running.
If you're near an emissions shop, have them check your NOX emissions (and other readings). Your guy may be able to advise you on what the readings mean.
Fix it soon:
That pinging is "spark knock" and it is very bad. It will destroy your engine if it continues. Every ping is the same as hitting the top of a piston with a hammer. Not good....

BTW: The EGR should have a restriction inside the vacuum hose connection port......

My2%