I am installing a bull bar on my van I am fabricating, but I need to figure out the best way to weld up the brackets and mounts.
I have a picture of exactly what Im making in the album below but is defined basically like:
Two 3x3" square steel stock, 3" deep (approximate) welded to the bumper fo my van over the mount holes for the two rubber bumper guards flanking the license plate. attached to those, I was going to weld on flat steel "caps" to the end, drill a hole. drop in a carraige bolt threads sticking out and mount the custom tow hooks I got off the end as seen in the picture.
another option I was thinking of was similar to this but having it work like a tow hitch where the steel slides in and out of the outer welded-to-bumper bracket. As in the picture, there is a horizontal bolt through the bracket, and then the one attaching the actual tow hook plate to the front of the bracket.
Here try this, and yes it appears it is welded to the factory bumper. Odd is what I was thinking too, in case I need to do front end work. Check out the second pic in my album on the bumper schematics.
I just recieved the new factory bumper replacement, to cut out the license plate pad- and bolt in a roller fairlead for the winch. Its just a primer black, so a good base to start from as opposed to chrome.
Anybody need a shiny undamaged chrome front bumper? Its off a 94
it is welded to the bumper but only the bracket it appears that the bull bar is boltable/unboltable nice 94 you sure have done alot of work to find one that good, good luck
That van I was lucky to find, all aspects. In my hometown nonetheless. so sending it to paint will be a lot cheaper than a bunch of body work and laborous prep.
Hoagie thanks for the reply.
The tow hooks in my closet are for a hummer, made by Aries, but how should i mount them securely to an inserted steel stock in with the trailer style bolt through it?
Would a large short bolt hold the weight of any towing capacity attached through the middle of that hooks plate?
If it's not directly secured to the frame, it's pretty pointless, I did a mot of off roading over the years, I've seen some creative stuff that wasn't mounted securely and the damage caused when trying to utilize it was to the point that it destroyed more than just tying a strap to a wheel.
The winch will be tightly sanwiched on a maybe 1/2" steel Plate Welded between the front two frame rails behind the bumper. With the wire fed through the license plate "hole" in the bumper and finally out the fairlead.
Unfortunately there is ALLOT more behind your bumper than what the picture you posted shows. The lower core suport is a fairly heave chunk of metal right behind the bumper.the rad and shroud is right behind that... There is really not much room behind the bumper to mount a wench. remember when they built this van all it has to do was look good from a distance.The parts thy bolted onto it really did not have to work at all or well.....
Here is an idea of what I was thinking for the back of the tow hooks, as they are recessed a bit, and in the picture they have a singular bolt going through the center attaching it to the 2x2 square stock. This way it would fit over the two vertical pieces and not be able to rotate once bolted down.
Starting with the overall look:
Then this is one side of the tow ring:
This is the back of the same tow ring (Its slightly hollowed out):
Then, the tow ring will bolt to the vertical pipe bracket pictured above onto this bracket below:
Additionally, I am going to have to bend the front pipe's main radius (just beyond the foglights top and bottom) as pictured, angled back just a teeny bit:
I plan to make to large "c" type shapes, then cut them at the bend, and cut an angle on one, then weld back together, as If I put it through a machine to bend, it will likely crimp.
Okay so was at the shop cutting the tow rings... And it is not happening. Is there a certain blade I should put on? Or a different tool? As pictured above this post, I need to cut the tow ring sides off. I thas to be flush to the edge, and super clean as the cut sides will be exposed.
I tried to cust through this dense piece with the metal saw- and after about a minute of cutting- This is how far I made it:
Im going to talk to a machine shop to see if they can cut them clean and square for me. It looks like I'll just order some square steel stock and setup the main bracket to the bumper very much like a hitch and receiver. It won't be used for towing, but I checked and found a winch that I can squeeze in behind the bumper in between the radiator bracket and frame rails. Going to measure today.
Then the bulk of the design will be left with a mandrell bender and lots of welding. I'll keep you posted.
I just got the front end winch hook back from the chrome shop. And they did an amazing job. This hook was ordered from a crane rigging company overseas to match the look I wanted, then it was chemically stripped, sand blasted, and ground smooth from stamped ratings and logos, and finally chrome plated. 25 for the hook, 75 for the chrome. Couldn't be happier!
I'd look into having square tubing bolted to the frame rails, extending through square holes cut in the bumper, bolting things to it on the other side leaving you able to remove it if the need arises yet being strong enough to use as it's designed.
I just got back from the steel facility with all the parts I need for the bracket to the bumper. I went with inserts and a trailer hitch style so the hooks are removable if need be. But they are cut down to 3" in length, and then the pipe will be welded around these two mounting posts.
Maples, I wish I had the time and patience to do said frame rail mounting but already have a winch on the way that should fit in the tiny space I have behind the bumper. And dont worry, it'll be for show, not towing. ;)
Mainly next I have lots of measuring and mock ups to do, and a man to see about mandrel bending. I finally have this project rolling and it feels great!
Here are the trailer hitch type square stock: Im using 2 1/4" Outer welded to the bumper with 2" inner stock that will have steel caps welded on to fit up in the recess in the back of the tow hook bracket. The tow hook base itself will be bolted through the end cap with a heavy and beautifully big bolt. Each support piece is 3" long and will have 2" mandrel bent pipe welded to it as uprights for the main bar.
Think what you want, I'm building a sweet front end to a classy machine. As in all my posts, it's an exact replica of the 2010 A Team van. Not an offroad tow rig. That should parlay any of the comments of function. It will look great, turn heads, and keeps me working on my van- and that is the key to this site.
I got the 2-1/4" steel plate cut out for the ends of the mounting posts. Getting them all welded up tomorrow, then I can drill the 3/4" holes for the bolt to afix the main tow hook bracket. Stainless hardware cost a pretty penny, but it will be worth it.
Just dropped off the van this weekend to fit and finish the mandrel bent piping at a guys shop here in town who does roll cages etc, on the mandrel bender he has.
I went over the pics, angles, bumper etc, and he seems to feel very confident it will turn out right. So he had to take my old chrome one off, fit the new primed black one, then weld and fit piping to make sure it all lines up. I am seeing if he can fab up a new crossmember/radiator support to increase the 4" gap behind the bumper to fit that Warn winch I picked up. That way its frame mounted and still functions to a degree of non embarrasment as opposd to all that work for a static display. Plus I like buttons.
Then after it is all pretty I will have him take the front and back bumper off and send it to the sandblaster/powdercoater to match the light bar.
Then, its on to saving up enough to drop the whole piece off to get painted. After I fit and finish the flares.
I'll keep you guys posted and get some pictures to you ASAP. If it doesnt cost too much to do the whole spread, Ill have him install the sidepipes too.
Bull bar is done up and finished, all welded and fitted. Got the winch installed and mounted. Took some negotiating the radiator support to finish it, but welded a reinforced box plate between the frame rails, with an extended cut out on the passenger side to allow operation of the free spool clutch. Painted the welds and new metal to prevent rust.
Next is the rear bumper chrome stripping (which is in the back of my van) and touch ups, then off to the powder coater.
The front just needs a 3/4" hole through the bull bar supports to bolt in the reciever stye tow hook insert piece before the powdercoater finishes the entire front and I can bolt it up and wire in and finish the winch hook install.
Finally- A year and two months later... Just finishing it all up.
And as an exciting upcoming development with my licensing- "Vanther" will be my new plate =)
So all the brackets, studs, plates, and pieces are all drilled for all those big 3/4" size bolts.
It took a lot of work to drill some of them, 4 different size bits, as I couldnt put the bumper itself on the bench to drill it (hindsight and rushing things...). Last is foglight holes, before powdercoating. and then reinstalling.
I dropped off the back bumper today to get it touched up in appearance and chemically stripped, plated, and then off to the powder coater.
All the bolts are waiting, and ready to finally go back together.
The two best tools I have purchased, besides a floor jack, were a lathe and mill. You never know how much need there is for them, like this bolt head, until you have them.
I have been taking full advantage of machining friends and taking care of them for their help for that exact reason. Even on this project, some things just have to be made, milled, or turned down, and there is little option to buy things like that bolt off the shelf. Plus its been lots of fun actually making something, you know is unique to your van.
Nice project you have going there! I happen to be fan of A- Team vans (done right). The new movie version is pretty sweet. I hope everything turns out like you want. Good luck with it, and hope to see it when it's done.
So I just got the winch wired up. Ran 4 gauge wiring all to the interior for a remote battery.
So, I have a heavy duty isolator to separate the starting battery and the remote deep cycle gel cell battery (150 cold cranking amps).
So now I will run the aux wiring from the remote battery to the roof light bar, and the front two pairs of driving/fog lamps.
For the winch, I brought the switch inside the dash up to the left side air vent - and I'll just make a little plate to control from inside for the convenience.
Picked up the bumpers this weekend, had everything all finished up in a gloss powdercoat black. It looks amazing.
Just bolted everything back on with new stainless hardware, gave the van a nice sunny wash, and finished bolting all the brackets, hooks, fairlead, hook, and lights on.
Im perfectly happy that after all this time (1 year 3 months) it is finally finished. Took a lot of a lot. Time, work, money, everything- but it turned out just how I wanted and the first time I hit the store with her black and sassy, people were asking me about it and complimenting how nice the van looked.
looks great. now you just cruise it around and enjoy. I've been working on my van for over 3 years now and still not finished so I think you got it done pretty quickly.
It's cool that you are going to the lengths necessary to make an accurate copy. I like the A-Team van but I hate to see lame copies. Keep up the good work.
Maybe next time it will be cheaper with my own shop and machining tools. Still have to hook up the lights, and polish it up a bit, but that and the rear bumper are all done now.
Here is the winch wiring remote install, I cut three fins out of the bottom of the left drivers vent. Screwed it in through the bottom. Put it all back together and rewired. Made it pretty. Buttons worked, sleeper status achieved. Vanther rises...
And twins no more... Everything about your van and the work you are doing really impresses the he>> out of me. Keep up the good work thanks for all the pics.
Here are the two main sets of lights up and running now. Just wired in the main bull bar set of lights, and although the picture doesn't do them justice, I could not believe how far and long the throw is on the big round KC daylighter slim lights. They literally seem to get brighter the farther away you are. Next is the last set on the body kit in the airdam front spoiler holes. But I'm sure that will be another thread
Thanks River Rat, no actually... I just wanted a vacuum gauge- but thought, well this one particular boost gauge had both the vacuum readout and boost. So when all my silly friends take a look they think it goes fast. Similar to painting any bits of the van red. I know thats silly, but I didn't need a second gauge really so I thought why not have a little fun with it. The other problem though is hooking up the Tach I know exactly where it goes, have voltage on the wires, it just isn't registering. Im worried the gauge is bad. Even though the gauge was sealed and new.
As far as your air bag qeustion i think if you took the small leaf out of your springs and added the bags you could have a soft ride when empty and just pump the bags up when loaded
I think you will have to cut and splice some on the tach install. The signal for the tach comes from the negative side of the coil. Make sure you tach is set for your number or engine cylinders. Other than that you just need 12 volt in and ground. There should be a 4th wire for backlighting.
Yah I found the schematic and tach wire is going to the correct tach wire off the distributor coil location, I checked the voltage too, at the wire to and from the gauge.
Its really odd, Ill have to pull it apart this next weekend
Unfortunately there is ALLOT more behind your bumper than what the picture you posted shows. The lower core suport is a fairly heave chunk of metal right behind the bumper.the rad and shroud is right behind that... There is really not much room behind the bumper to mount a wench. remember when they built this van all it has to do was look good from a distance.The parts thy bolted onto it really did not have to work at all or well.....
........Wookee
Low and behold, a little work and some time later I have a working hidden winch, aggressive front end, the look I want, and a nice friendly thumbs up when I out driving.
I think it was close to a 10 ton. But I only glanced at the ratings. The hook took me months to find. And the one I ordered was very different from the one you see now.
I found it online, through some rigging company in China. I bought it solely based off of measurements as they had no pictures, only a spec sheet. I gambled and after a few weeks it showed up. It had the biggest ratings and writings stamped on it, it was powder coated in a thick rubberized coating and was bright red.
After I got it, it took a few weeks to soak in an acid bath, then was medium blasted and hand scrubbed clean. After all the paint and coating was removed I switched gears and focused on making it smooth without the ratings stamped on it. So a flap disk and grinding ensued, then finishing.
Finally I had a local chrome shop touch it up, plate it, chrome it, then polish it up.
And then I crimped it onto the winch. But it's a near identical match. I can't tell a single difference between mine and the movie hook. And people love it! The hooks warn sent their winch with just wasn't loud enough for vanther. Had to turn it up to ridiculous
I completely agree! It looks awesome! Do you recall the width or length of the hook? I am looking to do the same thing but my calibrated eye tells me I am looking for a 5 ton hook. Here is a link to the hook I am thinking about buying. Width is 4.71", length is 8".
Also, what type of tubing did you use on the grill guard? DOM? 1.5", 1.75"?