Got little close to snow pile in parkin lot and cracked front lower spoiler years ago,patched it witt some small alumin angle and pop rivets and "Road"!! Nice and warm out,good glassin weather! took air cut off to it
It cracked like this both sides same way! glassed some mat on it
This is otter side glassed & prime
Now I gotta glass were this meets front flares,when I molded them together years ago it wasent a smooth line were they joined! 30yrs ago it was ok! Next week maybe
That's why I can't use a front spoiler or flares, Our driveway in winter rarely get plowed, so driving through a couple feet of snow is common and would prolly damage or rip them off. Nice job though.
OUCH, I used to have a daily driver ...What am I saying they all were, even the Phoenix was for a short time about twenty years ago. Molded flairs and spoilers do not mix well with snow and a daily driver. espcially in your climate. Good luck with your fix, Just a hint from the guru of glass...J&J, use glass Mat instead of woven cloth it's stronger, saturate completely, work out all air bubbles, and don't get a drop of sweat in it, that spot will never cure.
OUCH, I used to have a daily driver ...What am I saying they all were, even the Phoenix was for a short time about twenty years ago. Molded flairs and spoilers do not mix well with snow and a daily driver. espcially in your climate. Good luck with your fix, Just a hint from the guru of glass...J&J, use glass Mat instead of woven cloth it's stronger, saturate completely, work out all air bubbles, and don't get a drop of sweat in it, that spot will never cure.
I try to use mostly mat,its very easy to work with and shape,the cloth is ok on somethings....I used mat & the heavy woven cloth on back sides for reinforcement,I used about 6 layers of mat and resin to build up 1/4" to edge of gullwing,I think it is alot stronger using mat
Long Weekend get to do somemore "Glassin" Whoooo hooo Puttin rollpan back on
Moved it alittle from last mount!
Will grind er and matt er tomarrow Glassin is perty easy I say,Its just the sandin and grindin made a rig outs my stright shaft air grinder! Took and put a wheel on then washer then nutter wheel and nutter washer and put it on,works perty kewl Good for grindin down glass,just work it back and forth across area!!! thier was magic marker sayin Dodge...$32 on it from when I bought it bac in a day!!! Must B gettin Old
Worked 6-10 dis mornin,came home and did some more glassin! Goter all ground up!
Wasent real happy witt how the corner was......so I took da cut off tool to it!
Then mix up some resin and cut up some mat and mixed it up,stuffed in hole,let set up then glassed witt some mat!
Not 2 shabby Got some small like 1" 60 grit flap wheels witt 1/4" shaft and put in angle grinder! work real sweet on close curves!! Glassin is like sheet rock.....the worse part is da sandin!!
Amazing how bondo holds up when put on right,I molded(1/2 arse)flairs on in like 1980-81? and it held up all these years! just never got around to finish it!
Slaped some primer on it,going to give it a few more hours in mornin,going to try other side! C ya then
Looks good so far. Will the mat be enough to hold the dam on or is there other mounting besides the 2 screws?
That is just 2 of the 10 screws
When U say Dam...meening Roll Pan? If so she's screwed,glued,and a few layers of matting,I dont think its going anywere,I had it on before just screwed across back and 2 you see in pic,and it was glassed on sides & were it touched flairs Ken,It worked fine then,I had to use stright cut off tool to cut it off when I took it off to put tralier hitch on.So all that attaching and the matting I dont see any wind resistinace problem
Had a brain fart. So it does have more screws holding it on. I was just wondering if it would be strong enough to just glass it in place. Still Learning
Had a little spat witt boss today an told em C ya tomarrow! So had chance to do some more on van,have been neglecting it 4 a few months,have a boat in a slip on bay and have been fishing every sat & sun 4 past couple months!!! So I saw today as a chance !! Got a little bondo on
I use magic marker to mark low spots,its like ya dont wana waste no more bondo than ya need,takes lotsa layers of it to get all the low spots so this helps just puttin it were ya need it,most gets grated off and ends up on ground anyways! lol
After a few puddys!
After around 3 hours I called it quits and jumped in pool!!
The black is a rust encapsulator stuff I got from Eastwood,when ever I finish I spray it on all bare metal,then some I would spray primer right over it while it is still wet!! fills almost like a Nitro Stain puddy!! The primer will show ya were ya need more puddy too!! I need to do a little more work on lower flair area ya can C !! Well more next time!
took weekend off from fishin an worked on some "un finished" biss ;0) Played witt pass side
Hit some low spots witt as little Bondo as needed!
more bondo an more scratchin ;)
Did little sandin an featherin,an Nitro Stain puddyin!
Its out thir dryin now! shootin for primer on it today! wana get pan done to get bumper back on and gitt front up and finish repairs to front lower spoiler! pic of joint in center also
These sureform cheese graters r da Chitt for bondo!!
The more bondo I C on ground da better I feel ! ;0)
K Vanner's!!! time for pool and cold 1, and get ta sandin!! (I hate sandin!!)>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>More later>>>>
I have a belly pan like that, and several years ago, while driving thru a water puddle, it scooped up too much water and broke on both sides near the rear flares. glassed it back together a-ok. It would be nice if it was thicker, maybe a 1/4 inch or more, then it would be stronger...or avoid water puddles:) and mine was only bolted on, not glassed in like yours. yours is looking good, belly pans are so cool!
Next project is this little rust repair I should cut out further when I replace the lower panel 18 years ago!! rust was only bad on lower panel at time so i didnt cut it all the way up to body line and replace whole panel,I just cut like 8" of old panel and replaced it,years later I have a little rust that creaped up da panel on one end!!!! No problem tho,still have cut off from new panel,
I have a belly pan like that, and several years ago, while driving thru a water puddle, it scooped up too much water and broke on both sides near the rear flares. glassed it back together a-ok. It would be nice if it was thicker, maybe a 1/4 inch or more, then it would be stronger...or avoid water puddles:) and mine was only bolted on, not glassed in like yours. yours is looking good, belly pans are so cool!
Dat suck! This one is around 1/4" thick,and when ya mold it on it is alot stronger,when ya glass the middle 2 section together it makes it alot stronger too!! Need to slow down a little in dem fud puddles!! ;0)
Yea really Ken!! I said this summer but........lol Moneys a little funny right now and summer just blew buy!!! Im tryin to catch up on da rust for the long winter!!! The Van is like raising kids! It never ends!! jus need to get off arse an get tags/insur......... :0(
BTW, bondo is the worst... you're much better off going to an auto body supply shop and buying some real filler. Everything about it is better, and it's usually only like $20-25 a gallon.
BTW, bondo is the worst... you're much better off going to an auto body supply shop and buying some real filler. Everything about it is better, and it's usually only like $20-25 a gallon.
Thanx Their are a few different kinds of Bondo,Bondo is just the brand name,made buy 3M,I like da stuff witt the glass strands!The bondo that was put on 20 yrs ago is still holdin tight!
BTW, bondo is the worst... you're much better off going to an auto body supply shop and buying some real filler. Everything about it is better, and it's usually only like $20-25 a gallon.
Thanx Their are a few different kinds of Bondo,Bondo is just the brand name,made buy 3M,I like da stuff witt the glass strands!The bondo that was put on 20 yrs ago is still holdin tight!
I know it's a brand name, but it's the worst brand out there, IMHO. If you use a professional grade filler, it's like night and day for ease of use. Good stuff feathers out much better than bondo.
After I used auto body filler at work, I realized how much better it is to work with than Bondo. So much easier to sand and alot smoother than Bondo. I'm gonna be doing some glassin tommorow and possibly some filler.
its to late now but where glass is joined to steel you should have used fiber glass putty and not bondo sumthing to think about if you have glass to steel joints
its to late now but where glass is joined to steel you should have used fiber glass putty and not bondo sumthing to think about if you have glass to steel joints
The glass is joined to the steel with layers of fiberglass mat and resin,then bondo is used to smooth it out...Im sure their are better grades of "Bondo" type stuff but I have been using it for 30 years and havent had problem....Its not a real smooth of a finish but dats what glazin puddy is for! Lol I have bondo on this van from 20 years ago and its still lookin good no cracks pealin or nuttin!! So when applied right it last long enough 4 me! lol
Got ta work on van some more today! Got to the Rust I talked about while back! this is what I started witt!
I replaced this panel bout 12yrs ago,an never really finished it!and ya know rust it never sleeps!! the stuff they had years ago is alot better now!!! lol
A little rust on paint is a worse lot lookin on da back of the metal for sure!!
Sprayed it all down witt diss stuff!
Cut new panel an tacked here in!
Groundr down!
Little puddy!
Somemore and some glazin puddy
I been useing this Eastwood Rust Incapsulator spray stuff on it before primer,its black,while its still wet i spray on a lite primer real quick,The 2 sprays combine and give real good fillin of fine scratches!!
Not to Shabby 4 da backyard body shop!! Going to carry on were I left off tomarrow!!
Started out to finish rest of panel up to door,did that, got up to da door
Well when I got to the stepin area......
Then I wanted to remove carpet(Original)and trim to get up,and remove driver seat cause wanted to put swivels on I got a while back,and when I took carpet up I found this!!
So I got side tracked.....lol broke out air tools an fired up compresser..an got to work! Cut it out
Cut pc to fit.used flanger to punch holes in it for weldin,wanted to try weldin in holes this time instead of beads of weld...
Gave it a little bendin to lay rite tacked it up
Some grindin,weldin, an coat of Eastwoods Rust Encapsulatior and primer
Then we got back on track! Did some work on cleanin up step area and little work on flair..
Little rust stuff and primer
Was right at flair,sittin on stool so figuired I do a little on them
Well maybe I will get to this next....
Its next I started with roll pan an went around drivers side of van.......so after this its otter half of flair and around corner to front! 1/2 way done!!
Had to was a little dirt off,been out of garage all summer doing body work on it,got little more body work an it will be back in garage for some winter projects
When I take my chevy's bumper off its easier to disconnect the brackets from the frame and take it off that way, cause there's no room to swing a ratchet inside the bumper. And those damn carriage bolts like to spin!
Yes they do Josh ! Rained all day didn't get to it this weekend maybe next weekend,had them off bac in 81' but me forgets,the back I left brackets on bumper,it like a wrench,one flat at a time and flippin wrench time!!
Yes they do Josh ! Rained all day didn't get to it this weekend maybe next weekend,had them off bac in 81' but me forgets,the back I left brackets on bumper,it like a wrench,one flat at a time and flippin wrench time!!
Buy a set of those ratcheting combination wrenches... they're worth their weight in gold sometimes!
Yes they do Josh ! Rained all day didn't get to it this weekend maybe next weekend,had them off bac in 81' but me forgets,the back I left brackets on bumper,it like a wrench,one flat at a time and flippin wrench time!!
Buy a set of those ratcheting combination wrenches... they're worth their weight in gold sometimes!
Yea gota get a cheepo set next harbor freight trip Josh!
I bought two set of those "ratchet wrenches" from craftsmen. one metric and one standard.. They have been well worth the money invested.........
......Wookee
Yea thats what I was going to do wook,then I looked an they wouldnt of even worked that well,takin out the grill was easy an quick! no busted nuckles or nuttin
Front all back together,Lower glassin,flairs,rollpan,spoiler are done! Now I can get wheels back on and make room in garage for her hibernation (winter work)
Worked on Van over weekend,was to windy for fishin so....>>>>>> Got it back in garage,seems like it grew outside all summer Took out tail lights and side marker,had a few scratch's ta fill
Goter all nitro ed up an primed !
Got to dark to get finised pic,will get next time! Needed to clean rim so I took it off,wanted to look at breaks anyways,its been setting in garage for 15yrs so me forgets what da brakes looked like They got around 1/4 pad left will do for now,drums came right off no problem o Tire/rim before
tire/rim after
Brakes will work till she is ready for road
Put the new style side mirrors on too,welded in old mounting holes,don't look to shabby...
Got back section of roof sanded an primed to,also started mounting the spoiler I made for roof! Got to dark for pics,gettem next time>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
[quote=HighwayStar]...Man does that look good !!! From the front to the rear.. awesome work....Is that a stock rear bumper ?.... or what year ?... [/quote
Thanx Highway Bought van New in 79' an dats the bumper that was on it So yes is stock,found some new ones,an rear bumper was $100 more than front!! Buy lookin @ them I would think their was alot more involved in the front bumper than the rear........
That is so cool that u bought than van new.........do u ever think of the day u brought her home.......
Many a times! Witt only 116K orig miles too! When I see people that I havent seen for long time,an talk about the van they say Man U still got that white van!!! She was well know in her era!!!!
Heavy, how did you make that spoiler? If you have some pics I would love to see them. Those lines you came up with would look great on my project. Fantastic job! You have given me some inspiration.
Heavy, how did you make that spoiler? If you have some pics I would love to see them. Those lines you came up with would look great on my project. Fantastic job! You have given me some inspiration.
How did you attach your end pieces onto the spoiler? Loose tenon?
Got a cheepo "Air" brad nailer witt 2" 18g headless brads an glue,if brad came thru other side,I cut it off witt thin cuttin wheel,it all got glass & cloth so......I cut the curves in wood on ends witt a 10" long big tooth blade in a cordless saws all That was fun
The legs were screwed thu top witt drywall screws an glassed
Ahaa Being laidoff gives me time!! Worked on overhead console I have been makin.had to get wires from LED's to lay down
Took strip of thin wood an some garilla glue to it an clamped it
Worked perty good Put face on temp...an put 3 glowin switchs in...
Not to bad,got to cover face plate yet witt sumptin..
Had couple nice Oak & mahogany planks an played around cuttin them down and joinin them a few years back,an found some scraps,an was thinkin of doing sumptin like it on van......
Cut up some and glued & clamped them!
Gota do sumptin with these old armrest!! Was thinkin wood!
Glued some scraps together,will give me sumptin to spin on lathe someday!
Heavy, that's looking fun! Thanks for posting the pictures.
What color LEDs have you installed? Do you think you're going to cover your console with a fabric or naugahyde? Some veneer from that wood you have would look awesome...
One of these days I need to figure out how to use some of my Grandfather's and Dad's tools to do that sort of woodwork. I still have Grandpa's table shaper and a bunch of fixtures, but some of the stuff is a real mystery to me.
I love your idea of turning the scraps! You could make your own fancy harlequin wood posts for a bar area or get into all sorts of artistic things with those.
Played witt armrest some today,took pcs of mahong/oak strips I made and split down middle and I ended up with top pcs,they 1/2"X3"
Then I glued it to top of Oak pcs I had clamped yesterday
Then I cut a 20'angle on them
Drilled an recessed screw holes
Saned some edges
Then tried on for fit!
Dont look to shabby couldnt wait to put some poly on them Made some jewlery boxes years ago for same stuff,an when ya put some poly on it, it looks real nice Here's one wit an 1 wit out
Cant wait to get them on......if it is ever finished
Damn dude...! i take it you used to do wood work like that as a full-time proffession...?
you know,i hate it when you make a really cool smaller project that you can't wait to put on, except you need to finish abigger project first...!
Yea I hear ya on da "Bigger" project man!
I framed big money homes when a kid,and just loved workin witt wood,you would B surprised what ya can make from wood,and all the different kinds of wood! Their is nuttin but a clear finish on these,the lite wood is Oak,an dark wood in mahogany....this was from a "shipping" crate I got from a dumpster in the Industrial park!! you would B surprised @ the wood that is used to make crates in these 3rd world countrys,then its shipped to this 4th world!
Looks AWESOME buddy! I know what you mean about the crates, they have some nice wood in them from time to time. If you spend a little time with them you can save a fortune.
Thanx vanners only cost me da time! 1 mans trash is anothers mans cash
Was workin on weldin the old hinge holes on side of van an the freekin wirefeed started messin up! Dang feed wheel is worn out ! just spins on wire,wont push it! Just ordered new deal from CH,their R 2 wheels in it,a drive wheel,witt groove for wire and a flat wheel on top that puts presure on wire,well the top wheel they dont make no more,bottom wheel witt groove was $11,$9 s/h,they had whole drive for $35,an it came with both wheels!! needless to say I got whole drive an a spare wheel
Heavy, when mine does that its usually because the spool "drag" got tightened up by accident. And once in awhile because the tip fuses to the wire.
Looks like the groove in wheel is just worn out,the tenisoner on spool has a push in an twist deal on a spring,so now adju in spool tension ,I thought that first an free spooled some and it still just spun wheels!! lol
Well got the wirefeed up an runnin Being outa work I been spendin a little time in the "Man Cave" as "she" calls it
Did a little cleanin up Ya can see more of tings
Been playin witt mountin the buckets on the swivels
Got this pair of seats from my cuz,bout 15yrs ago,jus now gettin round to puttin them in! lol they R dark blue like velvet? Nice seats very well made, and made in USA too
First pic of seats,drivers side shows the 3" lift I gave it,that was too much,ya sat to high for me! Had some 1-1/2" box stuff I used for the lift ,passenger seat has lower lift
Ok been playin witt makin wiper-cowl,usin that stuff I found layin long side da road(fiberglass roof from tractor trailer) got a lower pc on cut it in center and pulled tight about 1/4" and pop rivited it to get some curve,stuff cuts good witt shears
Then we went to workin on da corners
Found out playin witt these stuff,if ya heat it with a heat gun ya can bend it
played witt da ends......when i get it hot,i bend it and hold wet rag on to cool it down
Cut nutter strip and cut a stright edge
laid on utter pc,ended up witt dissss
Looks to "high" already !! from inside....
So we got "Idea" took old cowl and witt just 2 hands and some clamps held it up
marked an cut and looks lots better!
Damn it Boy I forgot to get pic of it cut off !!! whaaaaaaaa will get it next time out bac,still more to do! Warmin up in "jersey" gettin near "glassin time"
Mat & resin Ken ,pcs will B pop rivited,thinkin a usein pc 1/4" hose,split it and put on top edge and mat over it to give finished edge,thinkin of workin some vents or sumptin in it! Its sumptin ta do in all this free time I got on Unemployment
Loookin REAL NICE!!! Keep it up. Glad you didn't sell??? I know you are!!! There can't be many Original owners, that still have there Vans, and are workin on them like you Heavy. Look forward to seeing more pics.
Loookin REAL NICE!!! Keep it up. Glad you didn't sell??? I know you are!!! There can't be many Original owners, that still have there Vans, and are workin on them like you Heavy. Look forward to seeing more pics.
Warmin up pertty good witt help of heater an Mother nature Heres pic I forgot, of it cut off
Put hood bac on 2 check 4 fit,an did some pop rivitin
Going to do some work on corners witt some cloth and glass! did i ever tell ya..... me love's da smell of fresh glassin!!!........lmao
Man!!!! lok @ da bottom of dat hood.......thats next! Gota shortin the hood hold up rod 1-1/2" also... The corner fit better than I thought,dont really want them to rest on fenders,wana more just "wrap-around" look....
Main attachment points will B a 3ft across center,and 1-2??? small tap nuts(like on visor),it still has little flex to the piller ends ,but with just a 1/4" stick of wood push glass over on piller just nice!!Will put tap nuts their
Gota good "curve" going,had ta work on it witt heat gun
Nowhere near as high from inside veiw now either
Usin da ol cowl for curve worked out good,took like 2,1/2" from center down to nuttin @ ends
OK dats enough! my eyes hurt Time ta head bac out witt cold ones and "Dream On">>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Got van turned around in garage,so now front ends not alway in back in dark!! Now I can C driver side now! got drip rail in bac done when I did rear spoiler,so I carried on with driver side drip rail,wasent bad just needed sandin an paintin
Had a spot were a gutter-mount CB antenna use to be
Sanded,treated rust and primed
Finished
Found this old window hanger! My oldest daughter made this in school like 25yrs ago for me! They took all different colors of paper and glued together then sanded down thru them to make peace sign! looks cool hangin in van,very "fitting"!
Waitin on warm weather and cloth to glass wipercowl.......>>>>>
Gettin ready to tag this thing soon,so I guess i should get the latches setup on this gullwing so it will latch!! Made sumptin temp up from stuff layin round garage Used some old house door latches,an striker plates
Most dodges got a triangle stamped in door jambs,made good spot for puttin latchs,the back of striker plates have a pc stickin off back,used dremel witt cut off wheel an made slot cut,the tab on plate fits in tight
then marked inside and cut out
Lota markin,measuring,an re markin an re measuring! On door ends I used pc of 2X3 and screwed an glassed,and drilled hole for tumbler
This is just temp door,im makin new 1,this was a very poor mold,could B used but just dont line up as good as I would like but it will work for now Was going to glass these latches all in and paint edges but.....it will all B in the mold next time! Was a little tricky lining up but! Gettin to old for all this climbin in an climin outa van 50 times
Put strikers on then from inside measured for 2X3... Rigged out some wire an screw eye,run string tru it,now I reach in passsenger door pull string and it opens!!
Latches tight just gota make junk yard run for some rubber bumper/stopers from other doors an hoods of cars! Closes pertty good too!
Haven't done a lot in while but...... Been doing little primer and removed visor to prime and paint,and done some work on sandin & primin roof
Also started playin wit makin mold for gullwing door... Usinin old metal doors to make a mold..filled recess on door handle area,
Did little test on door to see how glass mattin would form and to C how wax would release from metal doors Put down nice heavy coat of wax,then pc mat...
Put 2nd layer of mattin on
Let set up then trimed off excess...
Worked pertty good,came off easy,and left nice smooth pc fiberglass!
As you can see in last pic,i used some of dat Gorilla tape over hindge holes and it sorta sunk in and shows in finished glass,so I guess I will weld some sheetmetal on bac and putty in,mold has to be right to make doors rite! More to come next time!
Ruining good set of solid doors? NNNNNooooooooooooo(long slo mo dramatic no). Seriously, looks good though, cant wait to see the finished gullwings, and if the solid doors are salveagable when you're done, ill take em!
Ruining good set of solid doors? NNNNNooooooooooooo(long slo mo dramatic no). Seriously, looks good though, cant wait to see the finished gullwings, and if the solid doors are salveagable when you're done, ill take em!
Bottoms on both R a little rusted....had some surface rust @ bottoms and inside edges were rusted on bottoms of both doors dark red primer was work on it from 10yrs ago ......
Sweet! Why not make that corner square, and make the inner panel to fit the doors with the wheel well opening? Then you can use the same mold and trim the door to fit mid and late model Dodges.
Use PVA to realease, You can wax a bunch which is good but if toy want to guarantee a good realease of your plug or mold , use PVA. I am a good friend if the guru of glass (J&J fiberglass) Joe Godwin, and He is making a new mold for me right now for a new spoiler. But with todays Junk materials you need to use PVA (poly-vinal alcohol) it sprays a water based plastic coating on your part that peels off like celophane after laying the glass or washes off with water and will not hurt the part.
Sweet! Why not make that corner square, and make the inner panel to fit the doors with the wheel well opening? Then you can use the same mold and trim the door to fit mid and late model Dodges.
Thanx Ken Ya know I thought about that after words!!!! Had to do that with the 1 I got from Boot, lol havent done yet so it will "still" happen!!!
Been so hot an its like 30 degree hotter in my shelter its like a freekin green house!! resin really sets up fast in their!!
Got a buddy that's going to help when it cools down a little, going to take more than 1 to spread all that resin
Use PVA to realease, You can wax a bunch which is good but if toy want to guarantee a good realease of your plug or mold , use PVA. I am a good friend if the guru of glass (J&J fiberglass) Joe Godwin, and He is making a new mold for me right now for a new spoiler. But with todays Junk materials you need to use PVA (poly-vinal alcohol) it sprays a water based plastic coating on your part that peels off like celophane after laying the glass or washes off with water and will not hurt the part.
Ya know what....I had 2 old partial cans of wax from boat,put "1" good heavy coat on and let dry,resin an cloth,It popped rite off,left nice smooth surface!! wonder whats cheaper paste wax or PVA? an got visor off now
I like the sounds of clean-up on that PVA stuff tho
Ruining good set of solid doors? NNNNNooooooooooooo(long slo mo dramatic no). Seriously, looks good though, cant wait to see the finished gullwings, and if the solid doors are salveagable when you're done, ill take em!
Here is what bottoms on doors looked like,so it not like they were "good" doors!
Makin pc to fill in cornor so mold could B used for both style doors,it will also work for back doors to,just little shorter
Whats difference in the hardners for glass? the MEK? stuff turns purple color like above and other clear stuff stays clear like this...
Heavy , I wish this was in readers rides i don't get down this far in the forum as much ..LOL Like it's Far away ..LOL Anywho .. BeesWax is what i used before with the kit cars , a fiberglass shop gave me some back then . Sorry i'm out now i'm not sure where they got it either . But i'm sure with the power of the internet you can find it .
Yea I heard bees wax works good to Joe,yea have been wonderin a while if I could some how move this to "Readers Rides" but tant figuire yet!
Played around a little today on makin fillin for cutoff corner on bottom left of the door mold,figure If im makin a mold for it,mite as well make it with square corner an if yea need other style just cut corner off like I did with door I got from Boot
[quote=Superbeast]Been so hot an its like 30 degree hotter in my shelter its like a freekin green house!! resin really sets up fast in their!!
Hey I know that feeling all to well. Man it is a great shelter, strong for the snow loads, but hotter then hell, in the summer time. If I take mine with me when I move(next year) I'm making a solid rear wall with exhaust fans, and or vents.
[quote=Superbeast]Been so hot an its like 30 degree hotter in my shelter its like a freekin green house!! resin really sets up fast in their!!
Hey I know that feeling all to well. Man it is a great shelter, strong for the snow loads, but hotter then hell, in the summer time. If I take mine with me when I move(next year) I'm making a solid rear wall with exhaust fans, and or vents.
Yea Buddy you know how hot it get in their!!! Going to put 2 42" fans wit louvers in back of mine someday too !
havent been doing to much on van past couple weeks as I have been tending to broken bac sindrone!! had surgery in 83' and think its time for another! just sucks without insurance!!! feelin little better today and had to do sumptin on van! just had to Played with gullwing mold a little,ended up puttyin up hinge holes,handle....
gave good coat of paste wax...
Dried up pertty good!....
Next step is sprayin some PVA so we had to cover van some!
Got a buddy comin Friday that's going to help with the rollin of 3 layers matt and resin....more pics then,mite be alcohol involved
Been on them sense 83' they haven't worked in years,but I keep tryin!
ER gave me perks,an flexeral they work a little better!!
workmans comp had me on vic's, perks, flex, valium, tried to give me oxy and you can keep them all....medical Mary works way better with less side affects...
Been on them sense 83' they haven't worked in years,but I keep tryin!
ER gave me perks,an flexeral they work a little better!!
workmans comp had me on vic's, perks, flex, valium, tried to give me oxy and you can keep them all....medical Mary works way better with less side affects...
Worked on mold a few hours today! Mixed up 1gal resin witt 25min work time of hardener,roll resin out and put down 1st layer of mat over metal doors
Then 2nd layer of mat(using 24oz mat)
Cut and cleaned all edges,used a variety of tools!!
Made 3 truss type ribs from 2X6" like this to use as saddle for mold
After like hour of drying it was ready to peel off,all the wax and PVA came clean!!!
put down 3 ribs an flipped over the panel...
The PVA rubs right off witt water!!
Had my buddy help cause ya don't get but 25mins to do all this before chitt starts to set up so ya need at least 2 people! Wasn't sure how much to mix,and knowin more is better,we mixed 1 gal of resin,finished up just in time as it was about to gel,had like 1/2pt left so it worked out really well! Got a little more cross an end bracin to do on frame of the mold will work on tomorrow also gota little work ta do on the places were the duct tape was down middle of doors,no biggie,while tendin the 3 racks of ribs that will be in da "Smoker" Till next time Van On>>>>
Worked on mold little while gettin some BBQ going so....its going to take alota(more than thought lol) work to get to makin 1st door! lol molds gota B close to "perfect" to make good copy!!! dont look like to much work on surface heights differences were tape was down center crack on it tho....came out really good for 1st attempt! gota finish frame of of mold also!! Well time 2 turn "Ribs' on smoker!
Worked a few hour in garage today! Finished framin out the frame of mold
havent desided yet to put a big bead of liquid nails,or silicone caulk down on all surfaces and press mold surface on it or what....... fits good after some square-in up and this an dat....
gota clean up the PVA off it,stuff seems to be alot better than the paste wax,less wax to clean up,It says to apply a mist coat,let dry(15-20mins)the put a "flood" coat,an let dry fully,then 2nd flood coat,well I already had good heavy coat of paste wax on it so...it really didn't need any PVA but I wanted to try it and just put mist coat on and 1 heavy coat,guess that it not being as thick of layer of PVA it really didnt peel like clear wrap,but I can C how all the layers would make it peel off alot better,peeled ok tho....It wipes off witt warm water so....
All this work makin this thing don't know if I will get to make a door before winter! But I guess havin the mold is 3/4 was their
Hey Heavy, you are gonna leave that mold skin on the metal door when you glass the frame to it so that it gets the curve of the door just perfect, right?
Hey Heavy, you are gonna leave that mold skin on the metal door when you glass the frame to it so that it gets the curve of the door just perfect, right?
Worked on mold again today Filled in all the glass blemishes today,when doing scuff sand on finish side you would see all kinds of pin holes that were in glass,they left white spots.here each spot was a hole bubble hole I guess in glass,so I blowed out all holes witt air an covered whole surface witt glazin puddy,then sanded off puddy leavin holes filled! surface is smooth as a baby arse
I set up old door on bench and got all sqaured up and level and fliped glass skin on top
Then I put nice heavy bead of glue on all runner surfaces of frame and set it on top....
Clamped it down and put some stuff on top for weight,squirted glue all in inside bac sides of framin,will let this dry for couple days and then be bac @ it! Wantin to make door for back of van,so me gots a winter project
Worked some more on mold today! Got all edges covered in some 20ga tin,to protect wood sides of mold when being cut with air saw,an get good solid edge on doors.......
Got some inner frame work made from 1/2" plywood that will get put on top of wet glass on last layer...made frame with pillar in middle of door also for more support and to have something in middle of door for attaching interior wall....I know door I got and doors I have seen are all made with just the outside edges,theirs nuttin to screw to in middle of doors!! Well its ready for 1st door! waitin on some cloth and stuff! 1st door will B for the rear till next time
How do you glass a panel, what type of mat is it, I've never been around forming fiberglass, just used it once to repair a rusted floor once.
Im use in a few different sizes of cloth Maples 10oz & 240z stuff,did ya look thru this whole post? lotsa pics of steps....its not that hard to glass,just gota have a helper and be quick,cause when its time for resin to harden up....aint no stopin it! going to try and get pics of 1st door as its made! have ta get the wife to take pics!!
Got some cloth in mail today finally,what a pain it is to buy this stuff local,an cause ya get some really piss poor handling of the material when mail ordered!
looks like some kids all stoned measured & cut & wrapped the stuff!! With this heavy of a cloth (24oz) ya gota watch folds snags and what nots cause stuff is so thick it bends!!!
Got some 10oz stuff for finish layer,will use heavier stuff on other layers,this 10oz lays nice and is little easier to work witt!
Thinkin it mite work good as a finish side,lays really nice to body lines and stuff
Got the inner frame ready,cut the 4 layer of matt all rolled and ready to resin out!
Got my buddy coming over for a few hours friday to roll it out,will get some pics then>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
O an if ya wondering why inner frame dont look long enough,its because this 1st door will be for my rear door! they same door just little shorter
Thanx Jim,had plans on rollin some resin tonite but it didnt happen,the ruptured disc in my back didnt want me to!!! Got 2 coats of PVA sprayed on mold,an back just gave out! Been on heat pad sence........ ;0(
Managed little more work on door,got 3 coats of PVA sprayed on
Had 2 coats on an them dang "nats" came out and landed all over wet PVA!! had to let dry and pic them out ! then gave good flood coat of PVA next mornin,the nats only come out towards eveing so I sprayed in morning!!
This is what it looked like dry next day
Got buddy comin over on Thursday to help roll some resin,will B bac then !
Ive been tossing around the gullwing idea. I wanna see how yours looks, since mine is close to the same style. BTW did you ever get the pics i sent you?
Ive been tossing around the gullwing idea. I wanna see how yours looks, since mine is close to the same style. BTW did you ever get the pics i sent you?
Thanx ken rolled on 3 layers of cloth today,going to roll on 2 more and put inner frame on this weekend I hope! Gota couple brake jobs lined up,an the town fair thing is Sat so..... time will tell!
OK, I'm still learning about this glass stuff. I like the woven mat stuff, but what about that other stuff that looks like flattened cotton candy? Are there pros and cons to each type of mat? Why would you use one type over the other. I can see pros and cons now over the different weights of mat. Mainly for shaping. If you lay the mat down and then spread the resin on it, how do you get that nice smooth outer surface that parts have?
OK, I'm still learning about this glass stuff. I like the woven mat stuff, but what about that other stuff that looks like flattened cotton candy? Are there pros and cons to each type of mat? Why would you use one type over the other. I can see pros and cons now over the different weights of mat. Mainly for shaping. If you lay the mat down and then spread the resin on it, how do you get that nice smooth outer surface that parts have?
Lol That nice smooth outer surface is the 1st step Ken,If you are gel coating it gets sprayed on mold 1st,then the layers of resin and cloth,the stuff that looks like smashed cotton candy as U say Im thinking its "core mat",it is used to get a thickness,instead of a bunch of layers of mat me thinks,have never used it,would like to find some local but haven't been able to locate,an don't wana take chance on mail ordering it.I'm not gel coating so after the PVA is sprayed on I roll resin on it,then 10oz fine woven cloth (gets all bends an curves,body lines etc)then I used 2 layers of 20-24oz woven cloth,after that drys I put on 2 more layers of the 24oz stuff,and lay inner wood frame in wet door,then I put some cut to fit pcs of 2x4 were latches and struts mount,then glass over the frame & pcs. Got some pics coming tomorrow afternoon,rainin cats & Dogs rite now,and back is kickin....time for heat pad! >>>>>>
Cool! Thanks. Do you let each layer dry first or is it all done while wet? If done wet, I guess you need to work fast so resin doesn't harden before you are done.
Cool! Thanks. Do you let each layer dry first or is it all done while wet? If done wet, I guess you need to work fast so resin doesn't harden before you are done.
The 3 layers I just did on door was done in 1 mix of resin,lost about 1-1/2pts it started settin up,once it starts it dont stop!! I mix 1-gal resin w/1+1/3oz hardner and get like 20-25 mins work time! the hotter it is out the less hardner,and colder needs more!When it starts to set up it looks like jello
K worked on door somemore,brought camera in to unload some pics so.... k got the 3 layers of cloth on mold...
Let that setup,then put another layer on....
Then wet that out.... The PVA stuff works perty good,you can C how it makes a film like on mold...
Cut edges some....
Did some sandin on edges....
laid frame in to check fit.... Lookin fairly good Now to clean up some mess......
Will post somemore pics when I glass the wood inner frame an stuff in>>>>>>> I think im going to pop it loose from mold before I glass inner wood frame in me thinks,mite come loose little easyer from mold I think!
Took thin puddy knife an went in @ corner an worked up skin,PVA stuff works perty good! leave like a green ish film,that pulls and rolls up good!
Door skin looks perty good
Wanted to separate it before I glassed the inner frame in,figured it would come loose easier beings its more flexible,so we cleaned up all PVA & mold & skin,an laid it back together an did some clampin! want skin to keep shape as glass to frame using mold....
then we cut some strips of cloth to glass back of skin to the inner wood frame....
The Im glassin some 2X4 blocks in were strut & latchs will mount...
Well going to take Beer break.... What do any of U guys use to cut fiberglass mat and woven cloth with? I been using these but they R getting dull.....stuff is tough on sissors!!
O an stinkbugs are coming back!! Seen this catcher on internet an made one,It the top of water bottle cut off on inverted and taped! I taped it to long stick and ya put it over and brush the bug and he falls in and cant get out!! LMAO its even more fun after a couple beers!!
Beautifull Work!!,as for cutting the woven fiberglass mat,i use sewing sissors,the ones that have the zig zag blades and they leave a good cut without distorting the mat.
Thanx, a guy gota patten on the Bug Catcher! Got a 2 liter bottle with little battery light in bottom,for catching them at nite,they drawn to lite and heat!!
Beautifull Work!!,as for cutting the woven fiberglass mat,i use sewing sissors,the ones that have the zig zag blades and they leave a good cut without distorting the mat.
Yea both these have the seratted cutting edge,but they are still gettin dull cuttin the 24oz woven matt....dont think sewing sissors would last long......chitt the long handle pair I cutt 22ga metal with!! lol
comin out real nice...im gonna need side and rear on mine..
Thanx xtreme
Now I know why they were $1K bac in a day!!! Never knew what I was in for, an the time it takes to make 1 ! I would say ya could make 1 in a week.....8-10hrs a day! Still more to go on this,I probly got 80hrs in makin mold alone!
I wish there was a jaw hitting the floor smiley I can insert. OMFG your a madman I swear! You, Ken, and a few others have quite the freakin talent!! That said, when shall I order my side door, overhead console, and visor from ya
I wish there was a jaw hitting the floor smiley I can insert. OMFG your a madman I swear! You, Ken, and a few others have quite the freakin talent!! That said, when shall I order my side door, overhead console, and visor from ya
thanx dude..gota finish this before the "production" starts! We need to bring all these great minds together an start our own history channel show!! "Bringin Bac Da Vans Show"
No we should all open up a shop. Ship in vans from all over the country, and of course, we'll customize them. We'll all be rich! And since I came up with this idea, I'll run the show We'll be the next OCC w/o all of the bolt on parts!
Not bad for 15 mins install,mines 79' sometime after that the 4 little lights went away and the hole got bigger??? have plans on puttin factory AC in so.......will C !
Cant wait till wood wheel gets here! Still got same pc in Oak 4/sale too,got it on flea bay but had to get 2,so got 1 of each to C witch i liked best! Others 4/sale!
Thanks for taking to time to post the updates. I learned a lot about fiberglass! The wood looks great on the dash, such a simple upgrade. And ya really get a big bang for your buck.
Looks good. Question, how do you finish off the edge of the door? It's loose mat isn't it? Do you just resin over that and sand it down?
I like to "extend" the matt over edge a little Ken,and soak it good with resin,then when the 5 layers of matt gets hard I cut it off with saw,and it leaves a solid pc of glass,Im givin a brush coat of resin to bare end also,then little sand and heavy primer.... Here cut off...an strip that was cut off
After little resin and sandin an paint looks "Sweet"
I like what you are doing so far. I think you could stay busy for a while making mid-Dodge gullwings! I know I have planned on getting a side one for a long time now myself. For cutting material we always use a good pair of shears (basicly giant scissors). The ones I have are about a foot in legnth and will run you about 50 bucks, but they are awesome! (and made for this) Keep up the great work.
I like what you are doing so far. I think you could stay busy for a while making mid-Dodge gullwings! I know I have planned on getting a side one for a long time now myself. For cutting material we always use a good pair of shears (basicly giant scissors). The ones I have are about a foot in legnth and will run you about 50 bucks, but they are awesome! (and made for this) Keep up the great work.
Thanx capn Yea I could stay busy for a while makin them! Going to make a 2-3 skins before winter,I can do frames an small glassin over the winter!
Just put it on Bathroom scale and its 30lbs all but some paint so.. liter than I thought with all the cloth&resin tho... weighed old doors an they were 35lbs "each" with out hinges....
got inner finished and painted,opened back doors wide and I could set door in jams with old doors still on it!! lol gotsa get some more primer for outside,and do some block sandin,didnt feel like unloadin camera tonight an forgot it in garage anyways....
Well sprayed inside with some of Eastwoods Under the hood black!
Dont look to bad! looks better then the door I got so far! Couldn't wait to lean it up in place
Had a little work to do in center were doors were joined together but all in all it came out good,gota little resin work to do on hinge edge but other than that looks good! Well bac 2 garage ! got some more primer!
Cool, so it's about 10 pounds lighter than a steel slider.
If gullwing is 30lbs,an 1 old door without hinge is 35lb that means 35+35=70 and 4 hinges what 5lbs? thats 75lb-30lb=45lbs lighter! wasent good @ Math but,I just think of it as $$
Looks good Dave. Pick up a lil wax free gel coat which you can brush in to your mold if you need to and You won't have to mess with those pesky pinholes. Also gives you a lil material to block sand too. The wood frames add a lil weight but not much. The real negative of the wood frame is that after the glass gets in the the areas where the glass is bonded to the wood it will start to pull the glass. J&J doors do this as well. Many of them show their center support after being in the sun for a few summers. All glass products do this. You have to be creative about how and where you bond pieces together. That's why I prefer the two piece glass door. Do a thick outer skinner with a slightly thinner inner structure bonded around the perimeter and you wont end up with a large line down the center of your door. That's why the the vans am doors don't have a center support.
Great work though! People have no clue what it takes to make a glass door. There are so many tiny steps. It isn't just laying it up. You have to make structure and trim edges and fix mold imperfections sometimes. It's no child's game and Dave you know that very well know. Hats off to ya!
When u say brush some gelcoat on mold,do you mean cover "mold" with gelcoat? an now that will B surface to spray PVA on???? Im not puttin a gelcaot finish on the doors.....
I wasn't puttin gelcoat on my molds or doors until I realized it completely eliminated the pinhole problem and makes your product about 10 times nicer. You wax your mold then brush in polyester gelcoat. Then you lay up your glass and resin on top of that. The resin is polyester as well so the two bond and the gel coat comes out attached to the door. Then you have your first layer of material for blocking and you can apply any filler or primers you may need on top of that. There are also sandable gel coats that aid in body working the part after it's been pulled.
All parts need work after they are pulled. Whether it be trimming or more block sanding so eliminating the pinhole problem puts you many steps ahead. Like when we lay up a 32 roadster body at we have to unbolt the mold around the part and work down those seams by sanding the gelcoat which is much easier to sand than just resin and glass. If you don't have to go back and fill pinholes just to have a smooth surface you're already several steps ahead of the game and you can go on to blocking the area where the doors were joined.
We don't use PVA. Just mold release wax. After you've pulled 3 parts and your molds become seasoned you would be blown away at how easily the come out of the mold.
Just try to share what I've learned through the same experience. My first door had no gelcoat and a wood frame too. I just try to make the product little nicer each time.
I wasn't puttin gelcoat on my molds or doors until I realized it completely eliminated the pinhole problem and makes your product about 10 times nicer. You wax your mold then brush in polyester gelcoat. Then you lay up your glass and resin on top of that. The resin is polyester as well so the two bond and the gel coat comes out attached to the door. Then you have your first layer of material for blocking and you can apply any filler or primers you may need on top of that. There are also sandable gel coats that aid in body working the part after it's been pulled.
All parts need work after they are pulled. Whether it be trimming or more block sanding so eliminating the pinhole problem puts you many steps ahead. Like when we lay up a 32 roadster body at we have to unbolt the mold around the part and work down those seams by sanding the gelcoat which is much easier to sand than just resin and glass. If you don't have to go back and fill pinholes just to have a smooth surface you're already several steps ahead of the game and you can go on to blocking the area where the doors were joined.
We don't use PVA. Just mold release wax. After you've pulled 3 parts and your molds become seasoned you would be blown away at how easily the come out of the mold.
Just try to share what I've learned through the same experience. My first door had no gelcoat and a wood frame too. I just try to make the product little nicer each time.
I here ya Match! and any an all advise is greatly appreciated ....tryin to get 2-3 door skins rolled before cold weather sets in,will give me something to do over winter I like the PVA stuff it works great!
if you dont mind my asking, start to finish, what did it cost to build this door? I'd like to know in case at some point i get stupid and try this myself.
if you dont mind my asking, start to finish, what did it cost to build this door? I'd like to know in case at some point i get stupid and try this myself.
It has been awhile since I read the whole thread myself. Did you ever list what type of materials you used or sizes of containers or ?
Hey Dave If you get a chance visit my works website. www.allisonscustoms.com and look in our products list. We do all of hoods as a two piece construction. It also gives you a look at how our parts look out of the mold with gel coat. There is also a video on there of how we lay up a 57 chevy hood.
if you dont mind my asking, start to finish, what did it cost to build this door? I'd like to know in case at some point i get stupid and try this myself.
Well I had guessed @ $250-$300 per door,thats materials,cloth,resin,tools and U can add around $200 an like 10hrs or so to make mold
if you dont mind my asking, start to finish, what did it cost to build this door? I'd like to know in case at some point i get stupid and try this myself.
It has been awhile since I read the whole thread myself. Did you ever list what type of materials you used or sizes of containers or ?
Hey Dave If you get a chance visit my works website. www.allisonscustoms.com and look in our products list. We do all of hoods as a two piece construction. It also gives you a look at how our parts look out of the mold with gel coat. There is also a video on there of how we lay up a 57 chevy hood.
Kewl site Match! Great selection for music on vidieo also!! Is this were ya work? seen vega wagon in vidieo.....looks great,I guess some of site is not finished yet as some stuff didnt open or was nothing their....
Hey Buddy sorry for the delay , but that other stuff i use is made by evercoat it's called " glaze coat" it's an ultra fine polyester finnishing putty . Have fun , og wait you allready are ..lol
Dave (matchstick) it's nice to know your doing something that you enjoy to do for work . Good luck : )
Hey Buddy sorry for the delay , but that other stuff i use is made by evercoat it's called " glaze coat" it's an ultra fine polyester finnishing putty . Have fun , og wait you allready are ..lol
Dave (matchstick) it's nice to know your doing something that you enjoy to do for work . Good luck : )
Well been in garage off an on for 3 days now,back has been killin me but someone needs to do it Puttin in new valve guide seals whata PIA I forgot the grease under the nails chitt,them freekin surgical gloves are a waste ,blue,clear,black got them all! Well this is were I started
cleared way to valve covers,an popped them off...
Put these covers on @ around 30K miles,for that 30K miles I only used Quaker State Motor oil,@ 30K their was 10 times the crud you see now from the 105K miles later.....! Haven t used QS oil scene!!!
Popped rocker assy off
Took shop vac and long screwdriver and pryed chunks of grese to vac and it sucked it good! Alot of the seals were as I expected dryed and in pcs,some had like 6-8 pcs under spring when I pulled it up!!
Cleaned stuff up a little and put all back together,just waitin on a friend to borrow tork wrench to tork rockers down an close it up!
Figuired while covers were off ta re-do them,old wrinkle paint was peelin in spots,gave good scrapin,and then sprayed some of the eastwood wrinkle coat stuff on
Then I took single edge razor blade to the rasied fins an scraped off wrinkle coat,and gave it a shop of white enamel paint and clear coated it
Looks. Like you should run a good engine flush in that thing. I hate quaker state. Always used havoline and stp.
Just doing a quickie now, the old mopars didnt like Quaker State oil I heard from a few old time mopar guys! It was actually clean in side,U shoulda seen the pics from when i put covers on @ 35K miles !! I couldnt even see any bolt heads!!! It was packed full of crap! oil wasent even flowin back to bottom like it should of!! Planin on a full rebuild and paint some day!!
Goter all buttoned up! Started it up and it was hard to start and had dead miss WTF Was on other side so I shuts off and goes round yonder and was lookin and scratchin da head and says WTH.......them thier 2 wires are crossed Switched them and hit key and she fired up like normal!
Looks great! 10-4 on the quaker state. I always use Castrol or Mobil in my vehicles. Cept this van at the moment, leaks it too fast for the good stuff
Thanx all
Lmao I here ya on da leak!!
Played little more today! O I forgot ta tell ya with the old guide seals she would puff smoke when ya started it cause oil was leakin down valve stems to guide cause seals were all broken dried and crumbled up in saide of valve springs when I took spring off!!Here pic of what they spose to look like and what the old 1's looked like!! lol
Now when ya start it It dont smoke at all,1st time she smoked then it got to point after a few starts and let run it dont smoke at all!!
Nice job! I've seen a lot of seals like that. Usually meant a rebuild for me.
Not always tho Ken,remember I purchased it New,an it only got 135K miles on it,I always took care of my chitt! oil got changed every 3K miles an stuff,it sat in garage like 14yrs and was only started 3-4 times over the years,They were just old an all broken from the years in oil,its got like 125 psi compression alway round so,after new seals on 1st start it threw little puff and cleared out,after 4-5 starts it dont puff at all,all them valves that the seal was broken on ya know were that oil went! I just pulled it out to day and had no smoke @ all,before ya started it an ya had to pull it out garage real fast or it would fill up with smoke,ya could see it rollin under doors an out garage like something was on fire!!!
Workin on makin a inner frame for gullwings,going to make it shaped just like factory doors,mite get better looking and sealin doors! makin from some thick corrugated cardboard....
Ya can get curves outa it like ya curve wood,cut V's in bac 3/4 way tru and bend it
Then I fill witt hot glue to keep shape...
Ya can shoot glue in gaps in stuff,when dry it holds shape ya bent it to !
This is bottom,and here is top,just gota work sides !
Sux havin to much ta do an not enough time ta do it !
Well shes bac on da road Got rear end bac together and she needs to ride Was spose to go out on boat fishin also today but my crew canceled last miniute so me played on van all day and road around da local cuntryside! Such a wonderfull day in da hood !
all day with no place to go ? i was home .. LOL Anyway good news then that she's rolling once more .
I here ya Joe! Wana stay a little local for a while an see what else 14yrs of van sittin in storage has ta offer Would really like to get over your way and check out your work! Hopefully we got plenty of time
40 bucks! Wow. Too bad i missed that! lol. Oh well, hey the gullwing is looking great!
Yea $40 ! A buddy of mine just told me he got a wheel just like it came off GM if anybody lookin...
An thanx on da Gullwing! gettin ready to roll out a few to sell so I can get paint job!
you got some pics of the wheel? price etc?
Hey drag,I got ahold of the guy who said he had wheel,an now he tells me he dont got a wheel like it!! LMAO I know he told me he had 1 ! Will keep eyes open tho.....
It makes your Dodge look like it's smiling. Sure makes me smile! Definitely the best use I've seen for that filler panel yet.
You know I'd be happy to contribute towards cleaning up your bench by taking the awesome vise...
;0)
Thanks for the great pictorial! I love seeing how people build things that turn out looking great. That's a really good idea about using the flat stock to keep the sides from kicking out.
I really like those LEDS. I got a bunch of the shorter strips from a Chinese eBay seller for use as interior accents. A couple of years ago I also bought some of the same type 15 foot long blue LED strips to mount underneath along my frame rails. They're waterproof, but I'm not certain about their plastic's ultraviolet resistance, so I haven't gotten brave enough to try them where the sun will hit them. Please let us know how yours hold up in the sunlight!
Yea these come from flea bay also,99cents each and free shipping from Hong Kong,I couldnt resist ! Never thought about sun.....but sun dont shine on your frame rail.....yea I put pc of flat stock in split to hold shape,and then used another pc and beat each side of the other to get good square type mounting hole,then pinched tight on lite,these are just hot glued from back so they can come out for painting then they will B epoxied in...
Been spendin alota time in garage latley,besides workin on the van is free well maybe except the BEER Started on the side door gullwing door,got couple coats of PVA on
then we got some cloth ready....
Rolled on some resin....
Trimed an put some 24oz(Heavy)cloth stuff on
Gota"keep up"an block sand on edges when layering cloth.....
Then we cut some ribs outa plywood,for frame...
Made the frame an set it in last layer of glass...
Then cut bunch of long 2" strips and just started glassin
Put some 15 oz mat on sides after the strips.....
Main skin of door in '4' layers thick! outer 6" ends up with 6-7 layers after all....makes for good edges!!
Well that's enough for now...Dinner then some more glassin to do!
Ps; did I mention I hate sandin diss chitt..........
Thanx Guys,but its not that hard just messy! All clean ups are done with acetone,only thing that breaks down the resin,gota keep them glassin tools clean! Or else they end up lookin like the "masons" shovel...layered in concrete ! Fumes can get strong,between the acetone an resin !
Givin her a thin a coat as possible of glazin on edges
glazin the entire surface
Outa glaze!!!!!! She came outa mold nice this time! they say the more ya use them the better they get !
Well B bac when we get some more glaze>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ;0)
nice work heavy , hope you dont mind me asking , this is a little off topic, but i was wondering if you smoke , or in your last picture there is a couple mists , that caught my eye as possibly being something paranormal .
Givin her a thin a coat as possible of glazin on edges
glazin the entire surface
Outa glaze!!!!!! She came outa mold nice this time! they say the more ya use them the better they get !
Well B bac when we get some more glaze>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ;0)
nice work heavy , hope you dont mind me asking , this is a little off topic, but i was wondering if you smoke , or in your last picture there is a couple mists , that caught my eye as possibly being something paranormal .
Thanx ghost Ha ha nuttin paranormal here man ! the killer ciggeretts
Trying to talk the wife into putting one on our van, but she keeps telling me the same thing over and over even though I find solutions. She is worried that here in Calif. and I am sure it is the same everywhere is that the parking spaces are just big enough to park the van needless to say to even open a gullwing side door. I tell her that everyone can go through the front or rear doors. I am hammering away at her and I am sure I can wear her down to a yes. I have the kids on my side!!
Trying to talk the wife into putting one on our van, but she keeps telling me the same thing over and over even though I find solutions. She is worried that here in Calif. and I am sure it is the same everywhere is that the parking spaces are just big enough to park the van needless to say to even open a gullwing side door. I tell her that everyone can go through the front or rear doors. I am hammering away at her and I am sure I can wear her down to a yes. I have the kids on my side!!
Trying to talk the wife into putting one on our van, but she keeps telling me the same thing over and over even though I find solutions. She is worried that here in Calif. and I am sure it is the same everywhere is that the parking spaces are just big enough to park the van needless to say to even open a gullwing side door.
For a daily driver, where you need to have access to the rear-compartment, I would not put in a gullwing-sidedoor, their are sliding-doors or swing-out doors much more usable.
For a show-van or a daily driver, where you need only really seldom access to the rear compartment, a gullwing-door is a nice addition.
I'm dreaming since a long time about a gullwing-door, but the steel-door of the Highway is too heavy, and a fiberglas-door not available. And a fiberglas-door would need a new airbrush-mural to match the rest.
Trying to talk the wife into putting one on our van, but she keeps telling me the same thing over and over even though I find solutions. She is worried that here in Calif. and I am sure it is the same everywhere is that the parking spaces are just big enough to park the van needless to say to even open a gullwing side door.
For a daily driver, where you need to have access to the rear-compartment, I would not put in a gullwing-sidedoor, their are sliding-doors or swing-out doors much more usable.
For a show-van or a daily driver, where you need only really seldom access to the rear compartment, a gullwing-door is a nice addition.
I'm dreaming since a long time about a gullwing-door, but the steel-door of the Highway is too heavy, and a fiberglas-door not available. And a fiberglas-door would need a new airbrush-mural to match the rest.
Trying to talk the wife into putting one on our van, but she keeps telling me the same thing over and over even though I find solutions. She is worried that here in Calif. and I am sure it is the same everywhere is that the parking spaces are just big enough to park the van needless to say to even open a gullwing side door.
For a daily driver, where you need to have access to the rear-compartment, I would not put in a gullwing-sidedoor, their are sliding-doors or swing-out doors much more usable.
For a show-van or a daily driver, where you need only really seldom access to the rear compartment, a gullwing-door is a nice addition.
I'm dreaming since a long time about a gullwing-door, but the steel-door of the Highway is too heavy, and a fiberglas-door not available. And a fiberglas-door would need a new airbrush-mural to match the rest.
Goose111; I would not even try to replace a side door if I had that bad a$$ mural on the side of my van. Wouldn't even try!!!! Mine is still in the ugly duckling stage, so it would be easier.
I am showing the wife pics of all the vans then and now that have them. She has seen a few she liked.
I have gone and bought stuff behind her back or when she has said no, but not at these figures $$$. Even thought it is well worth it. I like my balls where they are now!!!!
If not now, I can do it later down the road. I hope!!!!
Yep, that's the main-reason, why it's still a dream. The airbrush-mural is now more than 20 years old and in really good shape. Chrystal Walker from Arlington saw it last august and was astouned how good it still is.
I've found a Vanagon with a gullwing-door build over here, but only have seen pictures of it. May be, one day I will see it in original and can look, how it was done and how much modification to the sliding-door is needed to convert it into a gullwing.
Until than, it will be a sliding door as it has been before the last 22 years.
Dunno, I have no issues with Superbeast. My door is on a linear actuator though, so you can open it as little or as much as necessary to get in and out.
Door looks nice Heavy!
Next ? from me, what purpose does the glazing serve?
to fill in pinholes and imperfections Ken. Looks great. Wish i had the $ to get that door for myself.
Ken! BTW did ya ever get Superbeast's door to open higher yet??
Next? This is next>>>>>>
Have been workin on makin a mold for it..... It got put on back burnner like the glazin on door due to a emergency "wrenchin" job got post going on in Dodge section wit front seal.....
I've used Evercoat's 100416 Metal Glaze. It also came with the blue cream hardener. It mixed and spread very nicely, and was thin enough that it even self-leveled to some extent. The only real complaint I have is that I can smell the stuff right through the plastic bottle, which is annoying at times. I have to store it in a ventilated area.
If you want a sprayable, there's always Evercoat's Featherfill G2. It's a high build sandable filler. It even comes in several colors... I got black.
I see you have a supervisor just like mine, hard at work on incoming inspections! I hope he keeps his tail out of the way while you're at work or he might end up with a few extra stripes!
I've used Evercoat's 100416 Metal Glaze. It also came with the blue cream hardener. It mixed and spread very nicely, and was thin enough that it even self-leveled to some extent. The only real complaint I have is that I can smell the stuff right through the plastic bottle, which is annoying at times. I have to store it in a ventilated area.
If you want a sprayable, there's always Evercoat's Featherfill G2. It's a high build sandable filler. It even comes in several colors... I got black.
I see you have a supervisor just like mine, hard at work on incoming inspections! I hope he keeps his tail out of the way while you're at work or he might end up with a few extra stripes!
Thanx Ram
Will have to check on that Feather fill stuff,sounds like it mite B easier than doing glaze,90% of it gets sanded back off anyways!!!
Yea the supervisor is in house thank god!! havin 2 I know were the sayin curiosity killed the cat came from! Just got wife a kittin 4 her birthday also so they kinda occupy each other,and taunt the hec outa the 15 yr old Shepard too!!!
Yeah, feather fill, that's the stuff I was talking about. Used it a lot in the past, and wasn't even sure they still made it Would that work for you instead of the glaze? Might be a lot easier as it sprays on.
A LONG TINE AGO, a friend and I made gull / lift doors for our vans. We saw the "procedure" in a van magazine.. His truck was a work truck (no windows)given to him by his father who was getting rid of a few (from his business), he chose the best one. We used wax paper, marine plywood and West Systems epoxy to make a "mold". We actually bolted the rear doors of his van together (inside) before we removed them and put 2x4's across to keep the doors in position. We made 2 doors. He actually installed the door on his truck. We used marine hardware. It did not look bad. He never finished the truck. I got transferred and was working in another state. He sold the second door, weather destroyed /got to the form. His van / truck was stolen. But it was a fun project. I still have my van/truck 33 years later. Was thinking about making a split side door when I retire in a few years.
Neat little story RED. aboard! Those were the days, when you needed something you went out to the garage and made it. Bummer about the ending, but we are getting back to those days now as not much is made for our vans any more.
Yeah, feather fill, that's the stuff I was talking about. Used it a lot in the past, and wasn't even sure they still made it Would that work for you instead of the glaze? Might be a lot easier as it sprays on.
Dont know ken...never heard of or used the stuff,thats why I was askin if it is like a (what I call) heavy primer? Its like a thick coat of primer paint...... Were can ya get it? this heavy primer can B gotin @ any auto paint place....will have to look into da stuff.....mite be easier an less work! Cause theirs enough work in makin these doors! U say ya used it Ken so wuta ya think??
A LONG TINE AGO, a friend and I made gull / lift doors for our vans. We saw the "procedure" in a van magazine.. His truck was a work truck (no windows)given to him by his father who was getting rid of a few (from his business), he chose the best one. We used wax paper, marine plywood and West Systems epoxy to make a "mold". We actually bolted the rear doors of his van together (inside) before we removed them and put 2x4's across to keep the doors in position. We made 2 doors. He actually installed the door on his truck. We used marine hardware. It did not look bad. He never finished the truck. I got transferred and was working in another state. He sold the second door, weather destroyed /got to the form. His van / truck was stolen. But it was a fun project. I still have my van/truck 33 years later. Was thinking about making a split side door when I retire in a few years.
Hey Red! yea thats how an still is on some fiberglass van stuff Specially the older ones were ya cant get that stuff no more....gota :make' your own!
When U say "split" side door...U mean "clam shell"???
Yes I would do a clam shell. Most of the doors I saw back then were made by cutting the original barn door in half and using "oven hinges" from walk in ovens or piano type marine hinges. I saw one that was made of F'glass with steps in the lower half to enter the truck. If I remember he used chains to hold the lower half in position when it was open. The gas struts were just starting to brcome common on cars and he used them to hold the top open. I have made some parts for friends using the epoxy and foam. The nice part of the epoxy is that it does not attack the foam. It actually bonds to the foam and makes a really strong part. The other nice thing is the lack of smell. The blue foam works great and is cheep, the brown structural foam is really strong but can get costly.
West Systems has a great site for epoxy products and their free magazine has great tips for making stuff. free is always good.
Yes I would do a clam shell. Most of the doors I saw back then were made by cutting the original barn door in half and using "oven hinges" from walk in ovens or piano type marine hinges. I saw one that was made of F'glass with steps in the lower half to enter the truck. If I remember he used chains to hold the lower half in position when it was open. The gas struts were just starting to brcome common on cars and he used them to hold the top open. I have made some parts for friends using the epoxy and foam. The nice part of the epoxy is that it does not attack the foam. It actually bonds to the foam and makes a really strong part. The other nice thing is the lack of smell. The blue foam works great and is cheep, the brown structural foam is really strong but can get costly.
West Systems has a great site for epoxy products and their free magazine has great tips for making stuff. free is always good.
Never played with the epoxy stuff,didnt know that the blue foam held up to it
I have been gettin the product up dates from West Sys for years,haven't really used it on a large scale as it is so expensive compared to the poly resin....... Maybe when I hit the lotto I can afford some
They mention another product as well, that may be a little better. If you are considering it, you may want to search some more and get some more current opinions on it and the newer products. I always liked to use it though as it would fill all scratches and small imperfections, then just block sand and away you go.
My friend and I used a long time ago some stuff called "PCE fill and sand polyester primer". Man it did what it said. A Few coats and even the deepest scratches where gone. Used it on a buddies '75 vette. Some one decided they didn't like the 70's graphics and took what appeared to be some heavy sand paper or something that would leave hundreds of scratches down the side one night. Left some nice deep ones in the glass. A couple of coats of this stuff some primer and paint minus partial factory graphics and he was back in business. Never found out who did it.
They mention another product as well, that may be a little better. If you are considering it, you may want to search some more and get some more current opinions on it and the newer products. I always liked to use it though as it would fill all scratches and small imperfections, then just block sand and away you go.
Yea I hear ya Ken,to cold for body work this time of year! Will deff look into it for spring tho....
My friend and I used a long time ago some stuff called "PCE fill and sand polyester primer". Man it did what it said. A Few coats and even the deepest scratches where gone. Used it on a buddies '75 vette. Some one decided they didn't like the 70's graphics and took what appeared to be some heavy sand paper or something that would leave hundreds of scratches down the side one night. Left some nice deep ones in the glass. A couple of coats of this stuff some primer and paint minus partial factory graphics and he was back in business. Never found out who did it.
Richard
Thanx Rich I'll C wutt I can find on it,damn bet the vette owner was pissed sounds like old girlfriend stuff
I have used the evercoat polyester primer . It's a thick two part system that acts like primer and fiber filler all in one . You wet sand it down like you would before pant . It's not easy work how ever it's twice as hard to work with then regular primer . You just have to take your time and do one panel at a time . Even if it takes two weeks ..
Yeah he was pissed. He things it was the guy a couple of blocks away. He slammed him on several light to lights. The guy was mad to have lost since all the money he poured into his Datsun 210. It was his first true race against a built Chevy and he couldn't take loosing and having it rubbed in. The Datsun was fast just not fast enough. I have a pic somewhere of the Vette.
I POed a guy years ago with my 66 Chevy fleetside pickup, had a 292 straight six with a three on the tree, guy had a blown big block 68 Camaro . . . he could not get the beast to hook up and I beat him like three or four times, when he found out I had a 292 I6, he got sooo pissed ! lol
I POed a guy years ago with my 66 Chevy fleetside pickup, had a 292 straight six with a three on the tree, guy had a blown big block 68 Camaro . . . he could not get the beast to hook up and I beat him like three or four times, when he found out I had a 292 I6, he got sooo pissed ! lol
LMAO @ Fester Blown B/B an a 6 banger??? LMAO He couldnt hook sumptin up
I have used the evercoat polyester primer . It's a thick two part system that acts like primer and fiber filler all in one . You wet sand it down like you would before pant . It's not easy work how ever it's twice as hard to work with then regular primer . You just have to take your time and do one panel at a time . Even if it takes two weeks ..
Damn its "harder" to sand?? was hopin it would B easy to sand sandin sux especially inside in winter
Well Im Bac @ It Ha ha ha just not as long me hopes
Had a little time over weekend started on makin the mold for a Wipercowl think that was next on the list Its like the "My Name Is Earl dude witt the list.....
Had some of the 3/4" corrugated cardboard stuff I used on other molds,works perty good witt the BIG case off hot glue sticks that I got!Hot glue had put the "Duct Tape" on hold...
screwed 2-2X4's together 4 a base... Cut bunch cardboard an hot glued the heck out it,braces an all! The mold-mold pcs fits perty good,want it to have a little "arch" to it naturally ...
Still got some work to do on finish side of mold peice before I start "rollin some resin"so....... Should endup looin sumptin like these...
more later...Its almost Beer:30 somewere>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Workin on the wipercowl mold,got the spool of 7/64ths" vaccum hose I was waitin on from Flea Bay! less that $20 50'spool w/s/h so..i waited auto store was crazy buy da foot!
Im using the hose as to make a structuring stiffener for finished cowls,hot glued 3 lengths of hose to it....
Got 1 length that I split it with razor blade down middle and sliped it on top edge of cowl to give a rounded finished edge to it...
Then 3 lengths spaced 2" apart...
Lookin pretty good Played with some scrape...think im going to get my buddy to chrome it and use as emblem...
Then I "back filled" 1 side of hose witt bondo!
If ya time it rite the semi set bondo can B shaved witt puddy knife....
Well done for this time! needed to get a 'base' of bondo on the hose,will let that set day or so and do some sandin..Till then>>
this is interesting I must say. You are using the hose as to make a structuring stiffener for finished cowls ? I thought it was just in the mold itself ?
I'm not sure i'm following you on this one Heavy ?
(Im using the hose as to make a structuring stiffener for finished cowls,hot glued 3 lengths of hose to it....)
They sell thin 1/4 steel round bar at lows ?
Ha ha ha got ya on the edge of your chair do I ??
the steel bars would be alot harder to work with,cost more,an are not 1 continence length as the hose is,its just their to get "ribs" for "stiffing",Like rollin flat metal threw a bead roller.......its hard to explain but......more too follow
this is interesting I must say. You are using the hose as to make a structuring stiffener for finished cowls ? I thought it was just in the mold itself ?
it is in it,to make it B in the finished cowls,it will stiffin up the cowl,its like takin a pc of flat stock,ya can bend it,take the same flat stock an bend long ways to make it a pc of angle.....now try to bend it....
Its like the mold for the mold..... Its a pos/neg thing
The man is a true artist. That is all I can say!!!!
Richard
Thanx but Im 'far' from a artist wish I could draw,cant even draw a good stick figure
Yes, but to be an artist you don't have to draw. I know people who can draw such realist things, yet could not even come close to building what you have done. You should pat yourself on the back for the outstanding things you are building for the vannin' community.
The man is a true artist. That is all I can say!!!!
Richard
Thanx but Im 'far' from a artist wish I could draw,cant even draw a good stick figure
Yes, but to be an artist you don't have to draw. I know people who can draw such realist things, yet could not even come close to building what you have done. You should pat yourself on the back for the outstanding things you are building for the vannin' community.
Richard
Thanx Rich
Ya cant find old van parts anymore so ya gota make them
Got the new rims an rubber on back of van finally They 275-60-15,Firestones,had some funky lookin "Indy 500 Fire sumptin" in big solid white letterin so it had to go
Shoulda got some different back spaced rims.......But I know when I get tired of these rims and get different ones i'll know! woulda like it flush witt flairs....
Got all the rubber replaced all way round now,did fronts few months back and just got rears...........whats next? O thats rite back to wipercowl>>>>>
Put last coat of cloth & resin on back side of cowl mold,will trim and separate tomorrow,then to make frame to hold it!! gettin closer to makin 1 of these! Lol
Another fine product on it's way from heavy389 garage. Man I have to learn how to glass. Looks like a pain yet all the cool things that can be made I guess will offset that.
Thanx Fellas! Worked on the pain stakin sanding for a few hours and a few drinks Sandin fiberglass reminds me of sandin sheet rock! it SUX
Think I glazed and sanded 4-5 times But the smoother the mold the smoother the product! Got to use some of this stuff
Works alot better than the old nitro stain stuff,Its like bondo,if ya get it @ rite time ya can sand off a little "overload' of it before it sets up all the way Couldnt wait to get some "primer' on it! Every thing looks better in primer
Buy priming it ya can C if their R and pin holes in fiberglass better..
Next time it will B some coats of the PVA release stuff then some "Resin & Glass" till then>>>>>>>>>
Still workin (almost done) on exterior rite now...just needed to move plywood that was layin around garage! Had partition and bed in it years ago,bench cabinets up driver side wall....have striped it down to underlayment rite now....still thinkin
trimmed up the cowl while it was still in mold,Just put last layers of cloth on it,has like 6-7 layers total now Will post some picks when I "peel" it outa mold! will have some shapin to do on the upper edge.....
Man that cowl looks sweet. I'm guessing you don't have a f/g chop gun at home. That would also be sweet. I need to look into some ideas i have floating around upstairs(in head) along these lines. Keep up the great work.
trimmed up the cowl while it was still in mold,Just put last layers of cloth on it,has like 6-7 layers total now Will post some picks when I "peel" it outa mold! will have some shapin to do on the upper edge.....
I'll be able to tell better when it's done. I have to take your word for it when it looks like that stage.
Man that cowl looks sweet. I'm guessing you don't have a f/g chop gun at home. That would also be sweet. I need to look into some ideas i have floating around upstairs(in head) along these lines. Keep up the great work.
Hey hey! were ya been? havent seen ya round in while
Man I wish I had a "chop gun" all hand rolled resin & glass here man :O(
Well put last of cloth & resin on,put a 36'X 9" pc of 12oz mat on in center,then put a 36" X 3" strip of same over top last pc,gave a little thickness @ mounting edge...set out in sun to set-up...
Then I added some pcs of cloth to build up a finished,rolled over type on edge on top of cowl
this is side of mold that gets build up...
This will get sanded and shaped to a rounded over finished edge,as well a something to "stiffin" up the edge so It dont flop in da wind Did some trimmin with cut off...
Trimmed up....
Couldn't wait to get this outa mold Started on a corner...
Popped out easy! guess them 3 coats of PVA worked
I use puddy knifes and wood chisels as wedges,you can see it comin loose from mold rite thru glass,looks like air bubble,fiberglass is some what transperent.....
Popped rite out...
Had some more pics of it but they got lost some how between here an photobucket!!! And when I un load camera I always check the "Delete photos when completed" button!! Will take some more tomorrow!!
Well I "hobbled"out to garage to get some pics(pulled sumptin in left knee Tuesday,an been on a cane sense)the mold came loose pretty clean,just little stick on left corner...
the wet lookin spots are were it stuck on left,it is pcs of the primer that stuck on mold
Mold was pretty smooth,not going to B alota surface work so maybe it will B on van soon???? prob couple weeks now witt this freekin knee your really screwed when outa work and outa medical insurance in our fine country time 4 self medication ttyl
Still "Hobblin"round witt a bad wheel Butt thanx to "moderate" self medication it'll B all Rite! Worked on cowl some more,remember this ugly big edge I built up on it?
well thanx to some 24 & 80 grit rol-loc disc and angle grinder! its lookin better
Hit a little obvious pittin witt some glaze
You know I cant wait to get some primer on has its share of air bubble pitts lol,didnt wana venture in to gel-coatin it as I would think the flexin would cause spider cracks in it real quick.....lol mite get some glaze on it today,got smoker going witt a big ol seasoned rolled pork roast,cuttin some grass,an utter spring type stuff!!
Measured it for some reason and its 46" wide & 12" tall.......now I measure the cut out on grill and its 46"X11".....wtf this grill was in this @ 1 time......cant figure it out.....Lmao looks to B 1 bar to many....But we will make it work! (just puzzled how it used to fit)
No work today so I worked on van! Started with Grill,started like this....
Then for about the 100th time (I could do this blindfolded) Strip front....
While here I took pc of SS window screen and sprayed witt some flat black and mounted on radiator to catch bugs and junk... Had more of a curve to old grill than I thought ...
Had to remove the bottom tube of grill so I had a donor for bending others... bent it to fit cure of old grill....
Got a center,then had to take grill all back apart an bend them 1 at a time to this...
That looks great Heavy. Any chance of a pic of the back side, mainly the supports and mounting points. Thinking about making one for myself.
Attachment is not to much of a PIA,the tops just folded over and self tapper tru rad support in to brackets,bottom is little tuffer,its like the cut out grill has to be mounted then get tube grill in place,then take old grill frame off,mount tube grill then put old grill frame on,over tube grill.... sorry its in now,an didnt get any mountin pics
It looks great. Surprising how a simple tube grill can make such an improvement on looks. Can't wait to see it with the cowl you made.
Richard
Been a little set back on the cowl Richard
I think I made it to thick,and it dont flex on the corners as much as I would like,with the ridge body lines I put in it made it like rock solid!! But its still going on jus gota perform some fiberglass surgery on it Hers 1/2 asrs pic.....its just sittin on van
the center will pull tight when screwed down,Its just the ends that mount on pillers dont bend around as easy as wanted,It will pull tight when screwed but its alota tension on it,It mite un-stress as it wears and shape to fit....duno.....going to make it work then make another mold I guess.....
Do U have a crystal Ball ????? LMao ( or U were reading my old post! lol ) put piller end in vise wraped in cloth and just snuged it,let weight of it hang and put little heat to it,it bent some we will C !!! lol
Lot of fabricating brackets and measuring and fittin but they look pretty good!! i got the 83" long,witt larger 3-1/2" tubes,longest they had,coulda used 8' more...
The hardware it comes with Is petty must useless that come with it! got do a hardware store trip to do other side!! had daughter hold it up while I did some markin an measuring ...
bolted up down under!
Little of pain puttin together,its like tube slide in to the 4 into 1 pipes,firtside was sure tight going in,other side slide in nice and tight,the 1 live hook out looks heavy duty !
Thanx Guys! Well their both on now,just show for now,gettin new headers will connect then......Pass side was real easy mountin,drivers side sucked...completely different,guess it has sumptin to do with side door??? lol pipe looks to B "tucked" in on drivers side....Guess ya cant see both sides at once??? LMAO
Freekin Chrome on these patriot pipe's is thin as chitt!! I waxed good when put on,rained 2 times,wash them and waxed them both times an they are showin surface rust still !!! Dont think they been on more than a month WTF Guess I call Jc Whitney and bitch?? Patriot ?
SOME powder coat shops handle HIGH TEMP stuff like exhaust parts, clean them up with 00 or 000 steel wool, then clear coat powder coat them. Are they hooked up or show only? if show, maybe "Chrome" them with powder coat, and color accent the heat shields?
Just "Show" now,need new headers so I will hook up then,I have to use scoth-brite pad to clean,an then heavy coat of wax,but damn if It were a real chrome job I wouldn't have to clean & wax so often!!
The chrome today is for garage kept chitt I guess......
Very cool looking pipes you got there man! They're going to sound great, mine did so I see no reason yours won't!!
As for the chrome, well lets just say that the EPA is choking the chroming industry.
I talked to my chromer about why it cost so much and the quality of most chrome jobs are going down(not his of coarse). He said it is all in the prep and base, which is copper. A good heavy coat will insure no rust and a deep shine. He states though it is expensive so many shops put little to none! Also the EPA has put a heavy price on the waist!
yea I gota buddy that chromes as a hobby,he has headlight trims of mine he is doing now,he either does it rite or he wont do it!! he did a older Dodge emblem for me a while back and sent me pics of progress of it being done,It kinda looked cool in copper!! lol
The chrome ya get on stuff now is so thin......sux but ya still pay good money for crap
Got a little cash flow going so headers are comin soon!! Then I will hook up the pipes
Just gota find some headers that will fit good!! know of any? Lol
I'm back. Its all looking great. Kinda glad I didn't go for new sidepipes now, seeing the probs you are having with your chrome. Mine came off a reg whl base Dodge that got into a headon collision. Pipes no damage. I had to cut off the forward most 2 dummy pipes, to make them fit my shorty. But they came off a van that had emissions, same as me, and he had a shop weld pipes in about half way along, so there is enough room for CATS.
I hope all works out for your pipes, and your back wheel. I'm very familiar with that type of bad wheel.
Same pipes I have, same problems too. When they rusted bad I should have bought different ones but I love the way these look. When I bought my second set I got them rechromed right away to get a better plating. From a good shop. Between the new pipes and the chroming I spent a lot. Rusted anyway. The tubes are holding up a little better but the collectors rusted between the snakes again. I replaced the collectors with single tube chrome 90 degree tips, from truck stacks. It looks better but this will not work for people who actually hook their pipe up to the exhaust.
I put my patriot side pipes on spring of 09 . I cut holes in the back of the pipes and ran a regular exhaust with 40 series flowmaster mufflers and had them come out the back of the pipes . they look and sound like they are hooked up . I took everything out of the pipes and fill them with spray foam insulation , so far so good , Bryce you have seen my van . Tom with "Dark Star" did his the same way at least 15 years ago and they still look good
I put my patriot side pipes on spring of 09 . I cut holes in the back of the pipes and ran a regular exhaust with 40 series flowmaster mufflers and had them come out the back of the pipes . they look and sound like they are hooked up . I took everything out of the pipes and fill them with spray foam insulation , so far so good , Bryce you have seen my van . Tom with "Dark Star" did his the same way at least 15 years ago and they still look good
So your tellin me that fillin them with foam will keep them from rustin??? these arent and have never even been hooked up.....
I don't know if that is the answer , mine are not rusting yet , my van sits in a barn when she is not being driven so they don't see snow but they have seen allot of rain
I love side pipes on vans, but the Patriot stuff just has such a bad rep. My friend Marc has the same 4-into-1 style on his Chevy and has the same problem. Constantly rusting. I'm keeping my eyes open for a pair of the old Thrush "outsiders", with the aluminum shell around replaceable inner pipes and mufflers. Polished up, they shine like chrome but will never rust. Only problem now is they are somewhat difficult to find, and when you do they usually cost a mint. Saw a set of "Sidewinders" going for $2600 on Ebay!
Man I was thinking about sidepipes...now I don't know....I'm sure Summit Racing would take them back if they start rusting within a year or so but I don't want to go threw all of that....
Another option I was considering is having a muffler shop bend up some 3" stainless tubing. 2 90-degree bends and 2 turnout tips, and welding stainless glasspack-style mufflers in the middle. Then polish 'em up and bolt 'em on. Could even fab up some slotted heat shields, or just run straight 3" or 3.5" tubing and use internal baffles (similar to motorcycle baffles) for the "show tube" look.
I'm not sure what side pipes have to do with fiberglass , but since you guys brought it up, can someone get me some really good pictures of these pipes, from multiple angles and close ups of the fronts? I'd like to see if I could make a set out of stainless.
Sorry for the hijack! Don't have anything made up, but here's an old thread on the subject. link I guess the idea's been on my mind for a while, lol.
I remember reading that. I was looking for some good pics of the Patriot pipes, though to see how hard it would be to make up the twists. I'll have to take some, the next run I go to.
I'm not sure what side pipes have to do with fiberglass , but since you guys brought it up, can someone get me some really good pictures of these pipes, from multiple angles and close ups of the fronts? I'd like to see if I could make a set out of stainless.
Thats alota bendin ken I dont know.....lol would be alota waste just to get the bends,worked @ muffler shop usin bender and ya would get a lota wasted pipe to get such tight bends.. would B nice tho...mite have some pics on other PC will look...
I'm not sure what side pipes have to do with fiberglass , but since you guys brought it up, can someone get me some really good pictures of these pipes, from multiple angles and close ups of the fronts? I'd like to see if I could make a set out of stainless.
Thats alota bendin ken I dont know.....lol would be alota waste just to get the bends,worked @ muffler shop usin bender and ya would get a lota wasted pipe to get such tight bends.. would B nice tho...mite have some pics on other PC will look...
Ps: its warmin up time for some fiberglassin
Not really waste, if you save it for other projects ;-)
Bet yas thought I died didnt yas ..... remember them Patriot side pipes I put on last summer ? 1 year and 4 coats of wax later....... Cheepest chrome I ever seen......
hooker still have them in their catalog,chrome should be much better, dont think they would be good on a van that gets driven everyday,I have had them on my vans since 1976, very high maintenance to keep nice, in my opinion,,,,,
On all my chrome I use copper wool and WD-40 to clean then spray some clear coat on them to prolong the shine. Works pretty good for me. Now I am not sure if the heat would cause the clear to burn off so maybe just wipe them down with oil or wax.
add a little dish soap to the water and yes he is .
Plating today sucks from back in the day , companys say its because of restrictions but its more about the dollar . Chrome it self does not rust its the metal under it .
I tried that tin foil and water trick and it worked pretty good!
The plater I go to for my old cars does Jay Leno's cars too!! Was there when they dropped of the pieces from a 1916 Cadillac for Jay. It is in the prep. He has two different plating's one for show and one for the rest of us. On show he gives two to three coatings of copper(that is what blocks the rust)depends on the cuts and designs in the piece being plated. Too much copper and you hide fine lines and details. The other one is cheaper, but he only gives it one good coat(more then most platers since copper is expensive) then the nickel and last the chrome. I have pieces he plated in '95 and still look great, but I also have chrome done at another shop before this one and it is rusting worse then the 50 year old chrome I was replacing. He also said Calif. is charging him more for waist disposal(which has closed several shops so far)and he has to make it up some where so he charges a little more where others cut back in the copper and wall la rusting in a year or two!!