Vannin' Home Forums Ford Troubleshooting My 94 econoline has issues

My 94 econoline will run and drive just fine when cold. The minute it warms up ( Im talking about a twenty minute drive to town) it will start and idle but the minute you put it in gear it dies unless you have your foot to the floor and then when it gets in gear and get going its fine. I think it may have the vacuum line on the tranny that may be leaking but wondering if anyone else ran into this at all?

Could be many things. Have you run the onboard diagnostic tests yet?

Onboard diagnostic do you mean the ecm with a code checker?

No, I mean the oboard diagnostic code you can retrieve without a code checker.

Here is how to run the tests (scroll down a bit):
http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c1528007282d

Here are the trouble codes defined:
http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c15280072815


See also here:
https://www.vanning.com/threads/ubbthreads.php/topics/659669/2

Never heard of this. I will have to give it a try. Does it need the engine light on in order to work because mine does not have that

Just giving an update I am 95% sure its the torque converter.

I am not a ford guy but on GM vehicles, you could simply unplug the lock up torque convertor solenoid wiring from the tranny. This would disable the lock up feature. You can safely drive forever this way. You lose a little MPG on the highway, but it is negligible.

I will have to give that a try. My wife and I are thinking about taking it to Missouri this spring for our anniversary. I still have to weld the body mounts but if I could drive it that way for awhile that would help alot.

The check engine light does not need to be displayed or permanently lit for the set-tests to work, but it does make it easier to count the light flashes to get the code.

By 94 your transmission is almost certainly fully electronically controlled. I seriously doubt the problem is the torque converter. I would be more suspicious of the IAC valve, the ECT sensor, the MAP or MAF sensor (however it was built), or some other engine sensor.

Run the tests and see what codes you get.