Sorry to hear of your troubles. I absolutely hate homeowner's associations. A bunch of self-righteous busy-bodies. The neighborhood where I live had a home owner's association years and years ago, but it is defunct. This is a good thing since the copy of the HOA bylaws we got when we purchased our house actually said that there are no Chinese allowed in the neighborhood. See what I mean? I hate HOAs.
You can still buy new running boards. Go to
www.discountvantruck.com www.customvan.com and ebay.
I am happy to see another younger fellow interested in vans! I have been into cars since I was about 8 years old.
I am sorry to say that it looks like that van has some pretty significant rust aaround the bottom. The first thing i would do if I were you is taker the driver's side running board off and do a thorough inspection of the underside of the van. If the whole bottom of the van looks like that then it is unsafe to drive and will be quite a chore to fix. If the rust is localized to just around the bottoms near the rear wheel, then it is definitely something that needs to be fixed, but not as dire as if the entire bottom of the van was rusting out.
Given the state of those rear quarters, your muffler most likely is rusted out and dead. While the van is in the air at the muffler shop, see if they will let you get under there and look at the condition of the rest of the underside and frame. If you see bad rust everywhere, then you might as well save your money and not put on a new muffler. You should carefuilly inspect the cpondition of the frame, the spring mounts, the brake lines, and the rocker panels.
Mill supply has very reasonable prices on replacement sheetmetal panels:
http://www.rustrepair.com/PANELS/FORD-92-ECONOLINE-VAN-CAB-CARGO.HTMThe rest of the van looks very nice, so I think it is definitely worth saving if the rust isn't too horriffic. I highly recommend you get into any auto shop and bodywork classes your high school offers. Then you will have access to tools, a lift, and someplace to put the van that will get the HOA off your back.
Did you know your van has the capability of running an on-board diagnostic test of the fuel injection system and all the sensors on the motor? It will give you all the stored fault codes as well as run additional tests to tell you if a sensor is reading incorrectly or some other component has failed. This test is invaluable in diagnosing problems with how the van runs.
HERE is a good deal ont he factory service manual set for your van. This will tell you how to fix most anything wrong with the van. I believe it should also tell you how to run the self-diagnostic test.
If the rust isn't too bad, I think that van is definitely worth saving. You will have some work to do to fight the rust onster, but it might be a worthwhile battle.
A few years back I put up a post of how to run the self test. I found it again for you:
THe hardest part is finding the plugs for that adapter in the engine compartment. They are tucked on the passenger side fender behind the battery. They look like this:
Here is how you run a self test and pull trouble codes without a code reader:
How to Prepare for the Self-Test
To check for codes without buying a code reader is simple. If your EEC is wired correctly, the engine light works, and there are not any electrical faults in the vehicle you can get the codes out of your EEC.
1. Turn key to OFF.
2. Get a length of wire that can connect the STI to the negative battery terminal or body ground.
3. Ground the Self-Test Input.
4. Get some paper and a pen.
5. Get comfortable in the drivers seat.
6. Try to keep your self from getting distracted from here on.
7. Turn key to RUN.
8. You will hear some relays engage and the fuel pumps prime the system. This is the EEC beginning the test.
9. When the fuel pumps stop be ready to count!
How To Count “Check Engine” Light Blinks
When the “Check Engine” light blinks during the test you will get several different blinks, the separation time between blinks is used to indicate what information is being displayed.
Turn key to RUN.
You will hear some relays engage and the fuel pumps prime the system. This is the EEC beginning the test.
The fuel pumps will stop and the EEC will now begin giving codes.
You may catch a brief flickering of the light. This is a rapid code read that is used by the code readers you can purchase. Do not worry all those rapid flashes you just say flicker buy will now be given at a slower pace of �, 2, & 4 second pauses.
First digit of first KOEO code (1/2 second between blinks)
2 second pause
Second digit of first KOEO code (1/2 second between blinks)
4 second pause
Next KOEO code
Once all KOEO codes are read the EEC will repeat them
6 second pause
Single Separator Blink (this indicates the change from KOEO codes to CM codes)
6 second pause
Codes from Continues Memory (uses same 1/2, 2, and 4 second timing as KOEO codes and also repeats them)
If nothing has been recorded by the EEC since last battery disconnect you will see:
Blink – 2 sec – blink – 4 sec – blink – 2 sec – blink – 6 sec – blink – 6 sec – blink – 2 sec – blink – 4 sec – blink – 2 sec � blink
This translates into 11-11 current condition (KOEO) and 11-11 in the continues memory (CM); or SYSTEMPASS
This may seem hard to count; recommendation is to record codes with slashes, and to lump them all together. Sort them out into numerical codes later. Here is an example of this:
This would give you codes; 41, 83, 14 & 18. If you miss some of the codes or feel you are counting wrong continue to count the remaining codes for practice and to compare to the next code test. When finished simply turn the key to OFF wait 15 seconds then back to RUN. The codes will be presented again.