Ok, I know this is probably long overdue, but I've decided to finally post my build thread. I still have a lot of work to do, but some of the major fabrication work is done!!
1972 Dodge B100 109" Wheelbase van, originally was 318 2bb. Had been upgraded to 360 4bbl with built 727 and nitrous (best Quarter Mile ET of 11.949 @ 113). Pulled all that out and started installing a 2005 Generation III Viper V10 8.3L (505 CID) from a wrecked 2005 Ram SRT-10 Pickup. Used a TCI Viper V10 to GM Transmission adapter kit, that I had to make several modifications to so that it would work, i.e. Different starter ring gear on flex plate, press in fasteners for adapter piece had to be shipped to me and I had to press in as they were missing, and I had to have a different secondary plate cut from A514 (iirc) to match the 6 bolt hole pattern of the 4L80E torque converter as the one that came with the kit was a smaller 3 hole bolt circle pattern. Anyway, each of those pieces was modified and rebalanced at a machine shop before being put to use. I'll let the pictures take it from here, and answer any questions you all might have!
Whole Photo Album: Photo Bucket broken, so made new album on Google with public access:
Had to add a bunch of 1.5 x 3" .120 wall square tube to support that cross member, used roll bar tubing and the tubing bender to make the main part of it. worked out nicely, clears all the E-brake cables too!
Awesome work and Bad Ass. My son owns a Viper and is quite impressed with the work you are doing. He would like to see any pics you have of the front end of the van and motor.
Dude that is so coooool, you have it installed. It's been what two years since you got the wrecked truck for the motor? Such a clean install you really did your home work on this one. I can't wait also for the sound bite. I worked on Vipers and the one thing I hated was it sounded like a muffled UPS truck. Every one would put the Borla exhaust. Sounded much better. Oh I am sure you know the rear door rubber is out and I just got informed by Mike that the side doors should be out in a month or so. That is if you still need them. I think at the speeds this thing will be capable of you might want good door sealing.
It is better to have Van'd once in your life, then to never had Van'd at all!
Update: work has been crappy this past year and I am again unemployed. I will try to get some things done (since its all already paid for) and update as I go! Thanks to everyone's help in this process and support! I haven't forgotten y'all! (been working in Louisiana)
Jim & Lucy Newkirk 1965 Chevy Bad Influence 1981 Chevy-the Love Shack 2012 Chevy Van , 2020 chevy van 2020 Chevy van Sapphire Sweet. Club Vannerz. vanninvanner@comcast.net
Great to hear from you and sorry to hear about the work situation. Please keep us updated.
1973 Dodge Shorty B-100 1995 Chevy G20 Gladiator
Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a well preserve body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and proclaiming
I'm researching Roll Cages for drag legality. Looks like I'm going to have enough power, so I may as well make her legal with a 10 point 8.5 second legal cage. Just wondering if anyone here has dealt with this on a van and what the results were as far as requirements special due to engine location?
Update (yeah a while huh? lol). Van has the radiator fitted, silicone couplers and small hard pipes made up and pressure tested at 25psi for 15 minutes with no drop. Think that'll work. Still have some figuring to do with the factory engine oil cooler plumbing that uses cooling system as right now its in series with the heater core, so basically when the temp is low it won't circulate, may be an issue haha. Working on the fuel system. Looks like my old photo bucket don't work no more so I'll see about link-ing a google public photo album. Some pictures of tank with dual hangars and getting the lines made up and mounting it so I can work on running the lines themselves. Decided to run 1/2" stainless hard lines for the feeds and return (2 feed, 1 return, all 1/2"). Should not be a fuel delivery problem based on capacity this way I hope
Installed Radiator pictures with silicone couplers and Breeze CT clamps (smooth inside, no cutting, holds great pressure). Stainless pieces for upper and lower, with beads rolled on ends to make high pressure seal. Lower hose had my brother put in a 1/4NPT bung for a bleeder as it's the lowest point in the cooling system. Had a "finger tight only" bleeder that worked great! Very easy to use and held pressure no problem. Held 25PSI for over 15 minutes with no drop for the whole system. Apparently the Viper engine in the truck takes 3 gallons of coolant... so When i filled with only 2, ended up short haha. drained it back out as much as I can for now, but bought a vacuum filler for when I fill later on. Happy with it so far. I'm planning to paint the radiator front side black so it doesn't stand out so much once the grill is back on, lol. Will either have 2 pusher fans or 1 pusher 1 puller, still deciding layout. Turns out I made enough clearance to front of engine accessories that I can fit a fan between the radiator and the engine with some room. Will see how it goes! Also when doing the engine I removed the brake line that went across the engine cross member. Basically any time you drop out the cross member you'd have to disconnect then bleed your brake lines. Seemed dumb to me so I ran a new line across the back of the bumper support in the front and tied it all in. Had to "couple" 2 lines together to get the length I needed but bled them out good, so brakes back to 100%.
Last edited by Alikazam; February 13th 2023 8:09 am.