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#570893 - June 26th 2012 4:56 am pinion seal replacement
rockinvan Offline
stranger

Registered: February 18th 2012 3:12 pm
Posts: 21
Loc: new york us
I need to replace my pinion seal . Is there specs i need to make so I do not ruin the rear end gears ?Thanks

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#570898 - June 26th 2012 7:17 am Re: pinion seal replacement [Re: rockinvan]
Doc 2% of Canada, EH!!!! Offline
Vanner

Registered: June 10th 2003 12:00 pm
Posts: 12709
Loc: Burlington, On, Canada Eh !!!!
Well , when you re torque the pinion nut its usually around 200 PSI. Check the manual..When I did mine changed the bearings and all the seals, check for clearance etc....then I used synthetic lube in it....
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#570945 - June 26th 2012 10:16 am Re: pinion seal replacement [Re: rockinvan]
NateNCBV Offline

Administrator

Registered: August 23rd 2005 12:00 pm
Posts: 20415
Loc: Brooklyn Park, Maryland, USA
Depends on make/model of van you're working on. The factory service manual will have the proper specs.

Ebay is a good place to get a manual.
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North Chesapeake Bay Vans
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1994 Dodge B250 Elk Conversion (5.2L/A518)
2008 Dodge Caravan (3.8L)

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#571025 - June 26th 2012 5:15 pm Re: pinion seal replacement [Re: rockinvan]
rockinvan Offline
stranger

Registered: February 18th 2012 3:12 pm
Posts: 21
Loc: new york us
Thank you

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#574638 - July 18th 2012 9:57 am Re: pinion seal replacement [Re: rockinvan]
Alikazam Offline
old hand

Registered: September 14th 2009 8:07 pm
Posts: 852
Loc: Oregon, USA
torque specs in psi? Is that supposed to be ft-lbs? smile Check your service manual for proper specs. Go with facts!!! smile
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#574761 - July 18th 2012 8:18 pm Re: pinion seal replacement [Re: rockinvan]
Phoenix Offline
pooh-bah

Registered: September 13th 2008 4:42 pm
Posts: 3391
Loc: Evansville, Indiana
I replaced mine with some advise from My friend at my dealership who is the foreman of the service dept.. 250 ft lbs is the torque BUT get it up in the air and with an inch lb torque wrench, step it up with adapters to the nut size and starting at zero with the drive shaft removed put the socket on the yoke nut and turn it. step it up one inch lb. at a time until your rear wheels start to turn. Mine was around eight or ten inch lbs. I think but don't hold me to it. just use your measurement as your standard and write it down. Then go ahead and bust your nut off...LOL I had my C&C dept burn me a rectangle out of steel and welded a handle on it that I used to brace against the frame to break the nut loose and tighten it afterwards. after you get the nut off clean the area up so no dirt gets where you dont want it. get that seal out any way you can ( i used a screw driver and pried it out until I got hold of it then just got it out fairly easy.) Then I used some sealer Permatex copper and put a thin layer on the new seal and with a large socket drove it home. Then put the piece I welded back on the yoke and with my torque wrench put the nut back at 250 ft lbs and it took all I had hanging almost upside down and pushing with my feet on the floor board and finally the torque wrench poped and I checked the torque with my inch lb torque wrench and my wheels started turning at the exact inch lb torque that I started with So I knew I had it right. Just do a start test install the new part and a final test to make sure your pinion load is the same and your done. I hope this helps.
You are welcome to PM me for any questions you have or a pic of the piece I made for a counter wrench.


Edited by Phoenix (July 18th 2012 8:19 pm)
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