Vannin' Home Forums Ford Performance (Ford) cam & head swap

Anyone do this to their van?

Looking to do a cam & head swap on my ol' 1983 econoline with a 351W. I already did an intake swap, and didnt think it was too bad...

Trying to figure out if I should just pull the motor out, or attempt to do it where it sits.

The radiator will probably have to be removed, regaurdless but think I'd have to evacuate the AC and get the condensor out of the way for the cam? What about the Grille?


Any insight is welcome...

Yep, radiator, condenser and grille will have to move for cam to swap. But you'll have to move 'em either way.....

The heads can be swapped in place but access is kinda tight on things like the exhaust.

What about the oil pump and oil pan? If you're changing the pump then it might be simpler to just pull the engine. Then you can renew the rear crank seal while it's out. Plasti-gage the bearings, maybe flush the block and knock in some new freeze plugs.........

My 2%.

Depending on your miles, it would be a good idea to check bearings if you are increasing power. New gaskets are always nice too. Not to mention it will be 10x easier getting the correct torque on the heads with the engine out.

Just a thought, buy a second 351W and build it on a stand, THEN pull the old tired one and stab the new one. . . . makes it easier, and gives you time to look for just the RIGHT PARTS. Just a thought.

So... the engine's coming out...

Does this lower pannel & the bumper need to come off, too?

Anybody been down this road, is there any potholes to look out for?

Never worked on a van like this before, Id rather not have the motor swinging & find out I have to remove more bodywork, and risk damage.

It's only a couple more bolts on the ends to remove the panel. But you might need to loosen the bumper as that panel kinda curves in behind it. It's worth it for peace of mind as that thing is easily bent.

If you can find a fan shroud for a 460 now would be a good time to swap in a nice 3 pass big block radiator....

Everything from the bumper back has to come off to pull the motor. Edelbrock performer cam is a good upgrade, and I recommend getting heads off of a late 80s or early 90s 351. If I was going to be swapping heads and a cam, I would do like Fester says and just build a spare motor and swap them out. E-150 engine bays are TIGHT with a 351.

You guys have any pix of ones you pulled out & did?

This is my wish list for the big parts. On a stock short block, it should, in theory, make about 350hp, and 400 ft.lbs, and the lunati voodoo cam in the 351w has a torque curve as flat as a table...

heads:
TFS-51400002-M61
or
EDL-60229

cam:
LUN-61001LK

My inspiration: http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0809sr_351_ford_edelbrock_bolt_on/photo_07.html.

I get the idea of building another one and swapping it in. If I go that route, though, it would be a 408 going back in, but that’s a little out of reach, right now.

I know the shortblock I have is sound (less than 50,000 easy miles), I would be willing to gamble that all it would need is a hone, rings & bearings to be like new. (and new oil pump, etc...)

Sorry, no pics of the last engine swap in my van. The bumper, filler panel, grill, and radiator (and A/C condensor) must be removed.

The thing to remember when building a motor for a van or truck is that most of the aftermarket speed parts are designed to improve performance at engine RPMs never seen in a van. For example, last weekend I took a long road trip. I was doing 75-80 on the highway in my 89 Ford van equipped with a 1984 351W H.O. motor and 1984 C6 three speed auto transmission. The van also has 3.55 rear gears. Going 70-75 MPH my motor was turning 3000-3200 RPM. By 80 it was up to 3500 RPM. Heads designed to increase performance in the 4500+ RPM range would be pointless on my motor. The same goes for intakes and cams. The rule of thumb for building a truck motor is that smaller is almost always better. You want low RPM torque, not high RPM horsepower.