Vannin' Home Forums General Discussion Generic How To ..... Has the Gullwing slider been beat to death yet?

ppb--hang in there with the responses right now. It is July and probably the busiest time of the year for many Vanners with the Nats starting in just a few days--many have lots to do to be ready for our big eVANt!

If you get to got to almost any eVANt, you will surely find a VAN with a gullwing on it and an owner more than happy to show it off and explain how they did it to you!

Happy Wingin'!

Did mine while bac......little info and stuff ta browse
https://www.vanning.com/threads/ubbthreads.php/topics/345032/1.html

Ya I realize its a bad time to ask Q's.. lol I did see the other long extensive post on this topic, but what I didnt see was latching systems, etc.. I doubt I will get to any event this year.. as it is now I have a questionable '87 Econo that needs floorpans and other work.. so as of right now I am debating on if to find another body or ?? *sigh*

Read this thread before I even had my hands on a van.. lol I noticed you did yours in fiberglass.. did you make it or buy it like that and customize it up?

Bought this one used,was made from a poor mold years ago,not bad but I think I can do better in progress of makin a new one using old metal doors as mold now.......

150 pound struts are the secret ingredient for gullwing doors. using a clevis/heim style mount at the top of your strut is the best way to exert the force of the strut directly on the door. i use 14 gauge piano hinge with a two inch overall width. you'll trim the drip rail side of the hinge to about a half inch, and the door side about 1 and 3/4". bend one side about 60 degrees, this mounts to the door. the key to good gullwing height is getting the roll of that hinge (the knuckles of the hinge) just in front of the door skin. this basically tucks the upper lip of the door in to the door opening, and helps clear it of the drip rail. I Generally weld the hinge to the top of the door and then bolt the hinge to the van.



this door was a little high and we recently brought it down some but this gives you an idea of the kind of clearance we have.

ignore that this says early chevy hinge set up in the corner. it's not. I just forgot to delete that text. that short screw is a #8 x 1/2" hex head self piercing screw.

we did this 91 ford as a complete bolt on kit(aside from welding the hinges, which can be bolted on if you wanted to.). I get plates with a ball stud manufactured on it that bolts to the pillar, i make the hinge, then I used the heim joint mount, and an eyelet at the top of the strut. the mount has to bolt holes, so you can either bolt it on or spot weld it. in this application we reainted the stock handle by cutting off the front hook/latch system so you would need to install another bear claw on the pillar towards the cab or install two new bear claws and strikers. depends on how you want to do it. The door will rattle with only one latch at the back however it is still functional for temporary purposes. this door had a pop out window and power locks. neither were affected.

Thanks everyone for the great info!!! I can't wait til I get mine done. First things first, I gotta fix some rust. My door will be done though by the end of August. Ive got kids to haul to school. How will that look when I roll up, and that door opens like that I definitely will be the only in town like that

itll look cool! and you know the kids and all will think the same =)

Bringing this one back up, so I need to notch/cut the door where the hinges go to have the pivot portion hanging partially outside, and it looks like the fact that the Ford has a big window has no ill effect, it's not too heavy? I have to do my 73 Econoline, just looking for stuff, how much are the hyro rams to lift it?