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Re: Steam out the tailpipe
Altosax #532175 January 23rd 2012 1:48 am
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Do they take enough off of those heads in truing them that the intake manifold needs to be milled to match?


[Linked Image]
Re: Steam out the tailpipe
Grogan14 #532180 January 23rd 2012 1:54 am
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Originally Posted by Grogan14
Do they take enough off of those heads in truing them that the intake manifold needs to be milled to match?



And they say we dont need math in school...this is a trig problem...the sides of the heads are farther out which puts the intake down far enough in the V for the coolant to seep in one area...


SUNSHINE VANS-VAN DIEGO
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'93 CHEVY G30 454 4X4 SPORTVAN EXT 146" WB
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Re: Steam out the tailpipe
Altosax #532182 January 23rd 2012 2:03 am
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Was the cross hatching still visible on the cylinder bores?

I don't know that I would have been comfortable reusing that block unless it was re machined. Whatever it was that was bouncing around in the cylinders and pitted the piston heads also had to do a number on the cylinder walls. Wouldn't think the rings would seal very well.

Here is what a roller cam'd LA 318 looks like.
[Linked Image]

The re machined heads, they were magnafluxed to check for cracks?

Here is a magnafluxed crack in the head when I had my engine rebuilt:
[Linked Image]


Re: Steam out the tailpipe
Grogan14 #532183 January 23rd 2012 2:04 am
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Originally Posted by Grogan14
Do they take enough off of those heads in truing them that the intake manifold needs to be milled to match?


Good Q Grogan14,

I asked the shop and they said they took only very minimal amount, not shaved but just enough to clean surface. I aked if I would need to machine intake mating surface and was told it would match fine. Vacuum is good - like 20 - but I guess that wouldn't prove the seal was great beyond the vac measure itself. I forget the Edel torque spec but that's what I used. As I recall it is quite a bit less than Dodge FSM. I have no steam from pass side though with same torque on bolts.

Re: Steam out the tailpipe
Altosax #532184 January 23rd 2012 2:13 am
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Quote:

"Was the cross hatching still visible on the cylinder bores?

I don't know that I would have been comfortable reusing that block unless it was re machined. Whatever it was that was bouncing around in the cylinders and pitted the piston heads also had to do a number on the cylinder walls. Wouldn't think the rings would seal very well."

'Course you are right about comfort level. As to cross hatching pretty sure that was gone 25 years ago. I do have good compression though, and can only increase it by squirting 30 wt a bit. Not a lot. I admit it is an experiment. Did not have ability to pull the block.

I theorize these Mopars are extremely forgiving. Runs cool, not a high compression, etc. Maybe it will blow up - I ain't sure.

I think the cyl walls are much harder material than the top of these pistons. The valve relief on some are much deeper than the dings I smoothed out. Even the installation direction notches have sharper edges too.

Last edited by Altosax; January 23rd 2012 2:13 am.
Re: Steam out the tailpipe
Altosax #532185 January 23rd 2012 2:14 am
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Originally Posted by Altosax
I forget the Edel torque spec but that's what I used. As I recall it is quite a bit less than Dodge FSM.


I reckon that's due to it being aluminum.


Did you figure out what that was, bouncing around in that cylinder?


[Linked Image]
Re: Steam out the tailpipe
Altosax #532188 January 23rd 2012 2:30 am
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Originally Posted by Altosax

I theorize these Mopars are extremely forgiving. Runs cool, not a high compression, etc. Maybe it will blow up - I ain't sure.


I'll be interested to see if there is much oil consumption if you can get it to stop steaming.

Is there any coolant in the oil?

Re: Steam out the tailpipe
Altosax #532189 January 23rd 2012 2:40 am
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Edelbrock says to torque their intake manifolds to 25 ft pounds. Get the installation instructions HERE.

If it is getting good vacuum and nothing is leaking from the exhaust studs, you may want to just run it for a few days and watch your coolant level. About 10 years ago I had the 351 that is now in my 89 Ford rebuilt by a very reputable shop in town. The engine builder said that the motor would leak a little at first until it was broken in. Sure enough, I had a little bit of coolant seeping past the intake and head gaskets. However, it settled down after a few days of driving.

There is also the chance that what you are seeing is just condensation. Try topping off the radiator and taking the van for a good long drive. If the van doesn't overheat and you don;t have white smoke when you get done, then you are fine.


Windows- they're what make a van worth owning!
Re: Steam out the tailpipe
Altosax #532191 January 23rd 2012 2:54 am
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I agree with Reed. Popping off the exhaust manifold to check for signs in that area wasn't a big deal, though I never thought the studs very likely to be your problem, but I can't see going any further without first running it long enough to absolutely rule out condensation in the exhaust, and to see if things seat.


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