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#495465 - September 09th 2011 3:51 pm Re: Any woodworkers ??? [Re: PYSCHOWard]
Superbeast Offline

Madman!


Registered: October 25th 2001 12:00 pm
Posts: 28121
Loc: Dayton, New Jersey, U.S.A.
I kinda think 36 grit is a bit harsh for a soft wood, but second the belt sander.
_________________________
Ken Schwarz
Tricky Truckers, N.J.
Van Clan Plus One, Canada
Manse Vans, Finland
Rebel Vanners, N.J. "USA"
Toopa Sinner Tribe, N.C.

www.showvans.com

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/360991



"Coolness ALWAYS trumps comfort"

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#495466 - September 09th 2011 3:59 pm Re: Any woodworkers ??? [Re: PYSCHOWard]
wrcsixeight Offline
veteran

Registered: April 30th 2010 8:57 pm
Posts: 1947
Loc: San Diego
36 grit is an excellent time saver. But inexperience in the use of a belt sander, or any other sander when using 36 grit, and the damage done occurs both faster and is harder to fix.

Sometimes 36 grit needs to be sanded with 50 then 80 then 100 to get rid of the scratch marks, it depends on the desired end result abd the softness of a certain piece of wood. Sometimes the damage is not apparent until the finish is applied.

I have a 0 to 2800 rpm grinder with an 8 inch soft circular pad to which I adhere varying grades of paper with feathering disk adhesive.

This tool makes short work of any sanding project, but in the hands of the inexperienced is as dangerous to the object as gasoline and a match.

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#495506 - September 09th 2011 7:16 pm Re: Any woodworkers ??? [Re: wrcsixeight]
vandude360 Offline
enthusiast

Registered: February 05th 2009 6:02 pm
Posts: 243
Loc: puyallup, washington
I'm not sure what RPM it turns, but my ancient (1968, I think) Craftsman 1HP unit (315.22420)still cranks as well as ever. I could only fin 80 grit belts, but it does flatten-out the boards that cupped alot better than the orbital. (and no, the cupped ones aren't upside-down).

_________________________

new Junkyard Jitters Progress Report pages coming soon.
Be sure to visit then. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3842191/1977-dodge-b-series

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#495511 - September 09th 2011 7:42 pm Re: Any woodworkers ??? [Re: Superbeast]
VanPLan Offline
old hand

Registered: September 27th 2009 10:02 pm
Posts: 1086
Loc: Rding,pa
Originally Posted By: Superbeast
Pretty much the stuff wrcsixeight is talking about is prolly the best. He's dead on with the marine industry, they have the best stuff for waterproofing materials.


and I also couldn't agree more.

The first thought that went through my mind was heat/cold. With the pieces being smaller and mounted so closely to the engine and radiator there will always be a constant heating (when stopping) and then cooling off (while air flow passes through when driving). The pieces will be constantly expanding and contracting causing the grain to fail over time. Wood is very sensitive to temp. no mater what or how much you seal it.

Then again my .02 cents will get you a cup of coffee and a stale doughnut.
haha

cheers
coffee
_________________________
"The little people in my head carry knives"

"Death is a long cold rest" *PF



http://s1080.photobucket.com/user/Dogshock57/slideshow/



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#495523 - September 09th 2011 8:19 pm Re: Any woodworkers ??? [Re: PYSCHOWard]
frscke1 Online   content
carpal tunnel

Registered: June 26th 2010 7:35 pm
Posts: 8518
Loc: San Diego California
Make them out of DELRIN its a space plastic great for expansion & contraction, its a hard non flexible plastic, machines easy as any plastic...hell Ive used a band saw and files to make what they wanted...its on all space shuttle's, handles cold and heat very well....It comes in black & white only...I have made many many parts out of this stuff and Ill guarantee it will not crack split or fade...
_________________________
ADRENALIN BY THE GALLON & CHASIN RACIN
ONE FOR THE DIRT & ONE FOR THE STREETS
'93 CHEVY G30 454 4X4 SPORTVAN EXT 146 WB
'92 CHEVY G30 454 BEAUVILLE EXT 146 WB




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#495731 - September 10th 2011 11:52 am Re: Any woodworkers ??? [Re: PYSCHOWard]
vandude360 Offline
enthusiast

Registered: February 05th 2009 6:02 pm
Posts: 243
Loc: puyallup, washington
I just checked, and there is a 5-1/2" open space between the front of the radiator and the back of the steel strap the letters are mounted to. The letters are made from 3/4" thick New England Rock Maple and only cost a buck each.

I think the two main problems with the old letters was I cut them from a piece of 3/8" thick Baltic Birch plywood, and I only sealed them once.

As I said before though, I'm not a carpenter and really do appreciate any tips, opinions, or suggestions on the new letters.

The old letters do look more appropriate for a van named "Junkyard Jitters" though...
_________________________

new Junkyard Jitters Progress Report pages coming soon.
Be sure to visit then. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3842191/1977-dodge-b-series

Top
#495750 - September 10th 2011 2:04 pm Re: Any woodworkers ??? [Re: PYSCHOWard]
wrcsixeight Offline
veteran

Registered: April 30th 2010 8:57 pm
Posts: 1947
Loc: San Diego
Friction effect brings up a good point about the temp swings the letters can be subjected to located as they are.

Usually a plywood is more dimensionally stable then just one type of wood, but the end grain of the plywood, the layers you see, absorb a lot of moisture, or polyurethane, or varnish, or whatever liquid is applied.

With only one layer on the baltic birch, no way was the end grain of the plywood sealed. I have made many Skateboard decks from 5/8 baltic birch, and the end grain on some of the layers looks completely dry a couple seconds after brushing on some polyurethane, and it is best to keep hitting these layers with more until the thirsty layers have absorbed all they can. When the end grain dries it can be as rough as sandpaper as the wood swells, and the same layers which soaked up a lot, might still look dry. This must be lightly sanded, and another layer applied, and sometimes this must be repeated until the endgrain stays smooth after an application of Poly/U or varnish, or whatever.

PLywood is the thirstiest endgrain, but the Maple can do the same thing to a much smaller degree in certain areas of the endgrain.

I imagine since you must cover the entire letter, and you can only apply the varnish on one side at a time that there will be a lot of drips that neither sand easily or cleanly. Razoring them off before sanding works pretty good, but it is still soft underneath the bumps. Applying tape on one side of the letter and painting them flat on a waxpapered table works still requires a lot of hand razoring and sanding to clean up the edges. Raising them off the table a couple inches with some small brads hammered into the back side will allow you to get the brush under and keep the largest drips from forming.

Another method is to hang the letters far enough apart you can reach all around them with a brush. Sometimes predrilling a small hole on the side or the back and inserting a small screw that you can use as a hand hold while you coat the entire letter works well and leaves you a good area for hanging it from a string to dry when you are done with application.

Make sure to thin the first layer with an appropriate thinner, and warmer temperatures will allow it to soak deeper into the wood. Also do not be afraid to wear some gloves and use a soft dry sponge to actually smear the varnish, or polyurethane, or whatever into the wood on the first layer. Have a couple back up pieces of sponge ready as the endgrain swelling during application can tear up the sponge and leave you colorful bits left over to sand out later.

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#495909 - September 11th 2011 1:04 am Re: Any woodworkers ??? [Re: wrcsixeight]
vandude360 Offline
enthusiast

Registered: February 05th 2009 6:02 pm
Posts: 243
Loc: puyallup, washington
Being a low-buck project, most of the wood used in JJ is itself, used. To help disguise gouges, stains, etc. each individual piece (such as those on the pedistal below) has gotten the following treatment:
after sanding, I burned it with a propane torch, scuffed it with scotchbrite, wiped it with denatured alcohol, brush a coat of urehane on.
After a four hour drying period, any bugs, grit, etc. are scrapped off with a razor blade,and a second coat is brushed on.
After drying for one or two days, two more coats are added.
More drying days, and two more coats, then more drying days.
Finally. it is scraped, wet-sanded with 400 grit, wiped clean, then it gets the seventh (and final) coat with my expensve brush.


I was short on time when I did the the plywood letters,so they only got five coats. I did burn the laminated surfaces, but I think I'll just try staining the sides darker this time.
_________________________

new Junkyard Jitters Progress Report pages coming soon.
Be sure to visit then. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3842191/1977-dodge-b-series

Top
#495932 - September 11th 2011 10:10 am Re: Any woodworkers ??? [Re: PYSCHOWard]
VanPLan Offline
old hand

Registered: September 27th 2009 10:02 pm
Posts: 1086
Loc: Rding,pa
As far as process goes you seem to be nailing it...and then some. We have a store called The Re-Store near us and from time to time a true hardwood flooring shows up. Somebody's job left overs. Had some Ash in the shop for so long I rebuild the wings on my grill (BBQ grill) laugh and burnt the rest. Regretting that now but it made a nice campfire.

Like folks always say it's your van and with a name like JUNKYARD JITTERS I can see almost anything working. I like it.

cheers
coffee
_________________________
"The little people in my head carry knives"

"Death is a long cold rest" *PF



http://s1080.photobucket.com/user/Dogshock57/slideshow/



Top
#496457 - September 13th 2011 9:00 am Re: Any woodworkers ??? [Re: wrcsixeight]
Superbeast Offline

Madman!


Registered: October 25th 2001 12:00 pm
Posts: 28121
Loc: Dayton, New Jersey, U.S.A.
Originally Posted By: wrcsixeight
36 grit is an excellent time saver. But inexperience in the use of a belt sander, or any other sander when using 36 grit, and the damage done occurs both faster and is harder to fix.

Sometimes 36 grit needs to be sanded with 50 then 80 then 100 to get rid of the scratch marks, it depends on the desired end result abd the softness of a certain piece of wood. Sometimes the damage is not apparent until the finish is applied.

I have a 0 to 2800 rpm grinder with an 8 inch soft circular pad to which I adhere varying grades of paper with feathering disk adhesive.

This tool makes short work of any sanding project, but in the hands of the inexperienced is as dangerous to the object as gasoline and a match.


Right on buddy, that's why I thought he should use a little finer grit, but like you said, all depends on skill level and softness of wood.
_________________________
Ken Schwarz
Tricky Truckers, N.J.
Van Clan Plus One, Canada
Manse Vans, Finland
Rebel Vanners, N.J. "USA"
Toopa Sinner Tribe, N.C.

www.showvans.com

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/360991



"Coolness ALWAYS trumps comfort"

Top
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