Crazy mods by MufflerMan Mike - March 28th 2024 9:38 am
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| | | Re: ADVISE on what items I can change to improve my van... | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 197 member | OP member Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 197 |
Ok Brothers!!
After last week improvements van is running fine and sweet. MPG are much better that I can imagine. NOW....
I have a little issue I need help with. Im experiencing a lack of starting. Once in a while, my baby, starts like charm. But there is times when it takes forever to ignite. Maybe the carb needs more air mix?? not sure
This things are new...
Starter, sparks and spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, carburator, fuel pump, lines and filters. Battery is new so is the ignition coil.
The problem feels more fuel related than electrical.
Could you tell me what else to I should look at? Thanks
Last edited by James_Black; October 23rd 2010 1:19 am.
| | | Re: ADVISE on what items I can change to improve my van... | Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 12,107 Likes: 37 Maniac | Maniac Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 12,107 Likes: 37 | Does the hard starting happen when the motor is hot or cold? What is your starting procedure when you start the van? One pump on the gas pedal? Two? Three? Four? None?
If it is hard to start when hot, then you likely have heat soak. Vans are notorious for heat soak in the engine compartment. What happens is when the van is running, the fan is turning and coolant is flowing keeping the engine and engine compartment within operating temperatures. When the van is parked and the motor is shut down, the engine is no longer being cooled and the hot air is no longer being moved out of the engine compartment so the engine and engine compartment actually get hotter before eventually cooling back down.
This causes several problems. The carb and fuel line get too hot which (a) causes fuel in the lines and float bowl to boil; (b) causes the fuel in the float bowl to boil over and down into the throat of the carb, flooding it; and (c) empties the float bowl. The end result is that when you come back to start your van, the motor is flooded but there is no fuel in the carb.
The cures for this problem vary. You can try using thicker carb base gaskets, a carb base heat shield, wrapping the fuel line in some kind of heat insulating material, running a closed element air cleaner (in other words a stock air cleaner) with a cold air intake (80s vans had them), running a phenolic carb spacer, or even installing a thermostatically controlled electronic fan in the engine compartment that will circulate the hot air out of the compartment when the van is sitting and turned off. This will keep the heat from building up.
Probably the best solutions are a heat shield, thicker carb gaskets, a cold air intake air cleaner, and insulating the fuel line.
If it is hard to start when cold, then I would look at the float level and the choke settings, mainly the choke settings. Make sure that the choke butterfly closes fully when you step on the gas and the motor is cold. Remember, a properly set-up carb will only require about a 2/3 pedal travel push-and-release in the accelerator pedal for the van to start. This should set the choke and give the van plenty of gas to start. If you have to pump the pedal multiple times something is wrong or you are just flooding the engine.
Windows- they're what make a van worth owning! | | | Re: ADVISE on what items I can change to improve my van... | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 3,464 pooh-bah | pooh-bah Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 3,464 | .....good advice!..... .....(or a big a$$ hood scoop..... ) | | | Re: ADVISE on what items I can change to improve my van... | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 197 member | OP member Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 197 | Only happen when is hot. In the mornings I give it 2 to 3 pedals but I have never tried without pumping. | | | Re: ADVISE on what items I can change to improve my van... | Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 12,107 Likes: 37 Maniac | Maniac Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 12,107 Likes: 37 | When it is cold, try pushing the gas pedal down about 1/2 total pedal travel, then release. See if it starts up. If it takes more than that to start then something isn't right.
See my previous post for hot start answers. Heat shields can be found as factory equipment on 80s vans or can be fabricated from sheet metal, 1/4 inch aluminum, or even wood. I would grab the air cleaner and cold air intake ducting from an 80s era van and take advantage of the factory cold air intake technology. This will improve performance, fuel economy, and alleviate a bit of the hot start problem.
Windows- they're what make a van worth owning! | | | Re: ADVISE on what items I can change to improve my van... | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 197 member | OP member Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 197 | Brothers I did the 1/2 pedal and start evolution this morning and the van starts nice and strong. I have a spacer on my carb. Its aluminum. I have a factory air filter and a housing in it. Dont think I have any ducts coming from it. "I would grab the air cleaner and cold air intake ducting from an 80s era van and take advantage of the factory cold air intake technology" Brother Reed. Could you educate this student on what do you advise to take advantage of? Im heading to the junkyard tomorrow. | | | Re: ADVISE on what items I can change to improve my van... | Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 12,107 Likes: 37 Maniac | Maniac Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 12,107 Likes: 37 | Cold air intake is the same on any car. It is a tube, usually plastic, that runs from somewhere such as behind the grill or into the fenderwell up to the snorkel on the air cleaner. The purpose of the cold air intake is to "feed" the engine cold air from outside the engine compartment instead of having the engine suck in the hot air that is trapped in the engine compartment. It is standard on new cars, but older cars, trucks, and vans had the air drawn directly from on top of the engine- where the hottest air in the engine compartment is. This decreases fuel economy and power, plus it heats up the carb since hot air is passing through it.
80s era Ford vans had a hose running from the air cleaner, over the passenger side valve cover, down to a plastic tube that fit into an opening down next to where the passenger side turn signal is below the grill. You van should have this opening as well. The plastic tube shoves into the opening from the front. You will need the air cleaner, the plastic tube, and the hose. You will probably have to remove the grille and filer panel from the donor van to get the plastic tube out.
You aluminum spacer will help a bit, but it is designed more to improve low end torque. An aluminum heat shield actually sticks out from the base of the carb and reflects the heat from the intake manifold away from the carburetor.
My old 1984 Ford van had both a big aluminum heat shield under carb and a cold air intake. It was a 351 H.O. motor, but I am pretty sure those features would be standard on all vans from that era.
Windows- they're what make a van worth owning! | | | Re: ADVISE on what items I can change to improve my van... | Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 3,601 Likes: 10 pooh-bah | pooh-bah Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 3,601 Likes: 10 | I have an EGR plate under my carb between it and the intake, I want to remove it and replace it with a thick aluminum spacer. I have the heat tube up from the passenger exhaust ant to the air intake riser, there is a valve in the air cleaner that directs vacuum to it to divert air from the riser. Cold, you press the gas to the floor, then turn the key and it should fire right up, if not, check to see if the choke has closed on it. | | | Re: ADVISE on what items I can change to improve my van... | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 197 member | OP member Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 197 | Brother Reed IS this what you are talking about? I saw it just like you said, coming from the front passenger side. BTW What is this? just curious. OH I SAW THIS FOR YOU. Dont know if you still looking for them. it is from a 1986 e250 passenger. PM if I can help you.
Last edited by James_Black; October 28th 2010 8:27 pm.
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